I need to replace a crushed screen. Looks like I can follow the procedure described above to do that-and make a few connections. Does anybody have a TSU3000 screen they want to sell me? I'd like to fix this one before buying a none Phillips unit. One thing is very clear from this thread-don't buy another Pronto from Phillips.

Thanks!

Add me to the list...remote works fine, and the next time I pick it up, the screen is on but doesn't register any presses.

I'm up to the step above...but I can't figure out how to get the green frame off...any tips?

Also, when the "clean the contacts" step comes up, does anything actually come apart to clean? These connections all look sorta permanent.

Thanks.
-Kevin

The green frame has tabs that fits in the slots on the circuit board. You have to pull up on the frame to remove it. Be careful that you don't break it around the 4 hard buttons on the side of the remote. I had to force it quite hard and wiggle it at the same time to remove it. You do not have to take anything apart to clean the contacts. They are visible on the flexible plastic circuit board.

Yup...it got humid the other day, and the Pronto stopped working. So I put it in a Ziploc bag with a packet of dessicant, and it's working a couple of days later.

This is what intrigues me. I've heard of people putting their Pronto in the freezer or in a bag with silicant and discovering a few days later that it works.

My experience has been that if I leave it on the table for a couple of days, sometimes longer, it starts working again, for a few days of weeks.

So, in trying to assess the various fixes posted here, I wonder. In my case, it' certainly not (I shouldn't use that word) firmware or CFG.

Cleaning the contacts? It's hard to associate my problem with bad contacts: how is it that it works for several days without a single glitch, then stops for several days, then starts working again, without any intervention except leaving it on a table?

Maybe the "engineers" in this forum could provide some insight?

The only fix is to clean the contacts. It's a free fix!

Ohh yes!
Removed the cover and sprayed elekrospray on all contacts fixed the calibration problem

Thanks for the tip!

I gave the "rub the contacts" a try today. I was able to get the 5 screws out, the top portion out. But I wasn't able to completely remove the greenish plastic frame around the LCD. I could not lift the right hand side, the one with the 5 buttons.

Regardless, even if I could have, I'm puzzled as to what contacts I'm supposed to rub. On my TSU3000, I can't find the four connection points of the ribbon cable mentioned by PeraV. On mine, the ribbon seems to be permanently connected to the top surface of the LCD plate; the ribbon then wraps around the plate and goes underneath.

So, which end of the ribbon is supposed to have the connection points? The end connected to the LCD plate, or the end (repsumably) connected to the PCB?

The green frame does come off. The top edge and bottom edge should be able to be wiggled free, but the center (near the mute button) will be the difficult part. What I did was lift the top and bottom edge off and apply direct pressure to the center part. It did take quite a bit of pressure before it popped off. Once it does, you will see why. There is a plastic tab that fits in under something else that is holding it on...It will likely go back together tight just fine.

However, I'm not at that point yet. I'm with CV27 trying to figure out what it is that I'm supposed to clean in there...there doesn't appear to be much to do. And, my screen still doesn't do anything.

-Kevin

Once you remove the green cover you will see a flexible plastic circuit board. At the right corner, top of the screen you will see 4 contact points. They look like little o o o o, you will see the circuit runs in the plastic. Use an eraser to clean those contacts. Also, clean the metal strip at the top and bottom of the screen. After you're done, clean the entire unit with a contact cleaner (available at Radio Shack). Try not to get the contact cleaner on the touch screen. After you're done, download the latest firmware and then calibrate the screen. After I cleaned mine, I was able to calibrate the screen on the first try. The remote has been working perfectly since.

Good Luck!!!!

Does anyone have an e-mail for Philips? I have tried three seperate e-mails to them regarding this problem and have gotten NOTHING back!! Nice!

Maybe the Phillips people reading this thread daily can contact me?? jeff at jbarnesfamily dot com -- or can someone send me the e-mail for Phillips that actually goes to a person?

Thanks... frustrated owner

If that's really all there is to it, it would seem to me that this could be done without completely removing the green cover. Those contacts are visible and reachable by just shifting the green cover out of the way a bit, right?

I think the actual "contact" patch of those 4 contacts is actually under that plastic coating, so I don't see how rubbing that plastic with an eraser is going to do much of anything, but at this point I'll try anything!

Thanks again.
-Kevin

OK, one more time... On my TSU3000, the ribbon cable runs between the touch screen to some PC board underneath. The ribbon connects on top of the touch screen glass plate through a white connector which seems to be glued to the glass plate. In order to see the other end of this ribbon cable, I would have to remove the glass plate assembly to see underneath it.

Where the ribbon connects on top of the glass plate, I see no 'oooo' connection points as often mentioned. And I see no metal strip at the top and bottom of the screen. Either I have a different design or I'm looking at the wrong place.

Hi,

sorry I've been away a while - also been waiting for Philips to release their mighty solution to this problem. Especially when they so fiersly advocated against the solution I presented here. I'm glad to see that so many have had use of the tip. For those of you, who have not been able to use it yet some advice:

There may be (and propably are) different versions of hardware used during the years - so once more, the ribbon cable that comes from beneath and connects to glass plate in my older 3000/950 is brown and transparent (I have not opened the new one yet). It bends over the corner (top - right) of the glass plate (touch screen) and there it connects to some metal strips (silvery) on the glassplate. When you rub (with a sharp tool) the points where the ribbon cable is attached to the glass, it re-connects the faulty contact. As someone here said very simple and free. If the ribbon is white, it might only hide the connection points - you can propably test it by rubbing the part where the ribbon cable is attached to the glass (as you have opened this fine piece of electronics already).

Somebody wondered how this can possibly help - that is because for some reason the connection fails, propably moisture and oxidation goes into the connection and increases the resistance in that. When you rub that soft ribbon cable end, it makes the contact better even though you do not open or clean the contact itself.

For the record - my device has worked ever since (2 months) I first repaired it. It has all the latest firmware etc. no problems.

For techies: There might be ways, you can change the measurement part in the firmware (resistance/capacitance change when screen is touched) and get it working without fixing the hardware - and that is propably what Philips is investigating at the moment - good luck for them...

regards PeraV

Okay, here's a pic. Hopefully it helps someone, but it didn't make my 3000 come back to life. :-(



Please let me know if the information on the photo is incorrect.

-Kevin