with a 3000.
the codesets are useless and the learning isnt doing anything.
ive done the learn with it plugged in and just getting huge code lists that dont work.

i have tried an old panasonic tv in the bedroom, a sharp/magnavox in the mame cab, the X1 remote, and both onkyo (dvd, receiver) remotes.
it always says ok and learned something, it just never controls anything with it.
the only thing i have been able to learn and control so far is a cheap a$$ IR keyboard for the htpc :(.

i have dug through the code base, but nothing specific to my models with the onkyo's and trying to others anyway does nothing.

ive had it a week so far and cant even use it for anything yet

Are you learning through the editor or directly on your 3000. Whichever way you are learning, try the other way.

ive done both. no diff.
im at my parents now and the same thing. they have a sharp tv and it says ok on the learn but wont work.
ive tried pushing the button once and holding it down the whole time.

id be tempted to think the transmitter part wasnt working cept there are 3 of them and the keyboard ir did work. although with that i put in 1-3 and enter. the reciever for the keyboard has an led that flashes. 2 characters worked and the led flashes 1 time per push of the button. the other 2 didnt work and the led flashes several times and nothing is entered.

search never works either.

and this is with the latest firmware and peng. and a fresh load of the default front end

This message was edited by night on 04/10/05 18:56 ET.

ok, an update. gonna be a long post....

i got every remote in the place and sat down and watched the codes through p edit.
-a tap of the button never worked. a useless code mess
-holding for 3-4 sec always worked and gave a good 6 segment code for most devices*
-holding indefinitly until p-edit said it had it rarely worked, saying it couldnt be learned

now my new problem is..... the pronto seems to have a range of 2 feet O_o. these are new batteries, but unless they practically kiss, it doesnt work with anything.

my list of stuff:

...worked, remote gave good 6 segment code :
Infocus X1
Onkyo DVD
Onkyo Receiver
Philips TV

...worked, long but consistent code
Motorola cable box (time warner branded remote)
old Panny 13" TV/VCR combo

...good code but wouldnt work
Logitech 680's

... now for the asteric
the IR keyboard and AIWA gave slightly different codes each time.
the AIWA worked. the k/b reciever would flash the led, but wouldnt enter the character in notepad.
here is some of it, the keyboard:
-0000 006A 000F 0000 0049 0030 0013 0017 0013 0017 0013 0017 0013 0017 0013 0017 0026 0030 0026 0017 0013 0030 0013 0017 0013 0017 0026 0017 0013 0030 0026 0017 0013 0030

-0000 006B 000F 0000 0048 002F 0013 0017 0013 0017 0013 0017 0013 0017 0013 0017 0026 002F 0026 0017 0013 002F 0013 0017 0013 0017 0026 0017 0013 002F 0026 0017 0013 002F

-0000 006C 000F 0000 0047 002F 0013 0017 0013 0017 0013 0017 0013 0017 0013 0017 0026 002F 0026 0017 0013 002F 0013 0017 0013 0017 0026 0017 0013 002F 0026 0017 0013 002F

and the AIWA:
-0000 006D 002E 0000 0155 00A9 0017 0014 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 0014 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 003F 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 003F 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 036B 0155 00A9 0017 00A9

-0000 006B 002C 0002 015D 00AD 0017 0014 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 0014 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 003F 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 003F 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 003F 0017 037D 015D 00AD 0017 0E4C

-0000 006D 002C 0002 0155 00A9 0017 0014 0017 003E 0017 003E 0017 003E 0017 0014 0017 003E 0017 003E 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 003E 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 003E 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 003E 0017 003E 0017 003E 0017 003E 0017 003E 0017 003E 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 0014 0017 003E 0017 003E 0017 003E 0017 003E 0017 003E 0017 003E 0017 003E 0017 003E 0017 036B 0155 00A9 0017 0E00

what do you make of codes like that that are different with every push of the button??

How are you testing that the codes work - from your Pronto or through PronotEdit? A lot of people get different results through ProntoEdit. So always download your PCF to your Pronto then test.

The short distance transmit problem can be caused by things such as low batteries, interference or stuffed firmware. For the last you need to download a fresh copy of the firmware.

i said earlier this is with a new install of the firmware and default front end. and yes this was through the pronto alone, not the edit.
i cant imagine ppl trying to test everything in their house with a usb cable attached.

By "6 segment code" do you mean one of the condenced Pronto Hex forms beginning 900A for the NEC codes (Onkyo and probably Infocus) and beginning 5000 or 6000 for Philips?


What does "good" mean?


That is perfectly normal. Except for a few protocols that are recognised and condensed, Pronto Hex is a sequence of approximate measurements. There is no reason for all those measurements to be approximated the same way on multiple learns of the same signal.


All three samples decode as the same signal. In my decode software, I called that protocol "Solidtek16" because it is the 16 bit version of a protocol used by Solidtek devices that Jon Armstrong was investigating at the time I added that to DecodeIr. I'm not sure why those signals would fail to work, since they decode well. There may be extra info that would help in one of Jon's old threads about Solidtek.


Those are a common Aiwa signal. Therre are lots of CCF files containing that code set, and I'm sure one of the 300's built-in code sets matches.


The IR code is the same each time. The Pronto Hex varies in trivial ways that don't measurably affect the IR signal that would be sent.

ok, thank you. some good info finally.

by 6 segment i do mean the nice and tidy looking 900A's.
from the reading ive done on here i assumed that format was the standard to expect.

on the 680's, i was calling the 900A format 'good', the remote gave that type of code, but i couldnt for the life of me get it to respond to the pronto.

now that i see the limited range thing though im gonna assume thats the whole problem.

You don't mean that the Philips TV also had a 900A code do you? That would be very strange.


900A is the condensed form of the most common IR protocol. But there are so many different less common protocols that the long Pronto Hex format is more common overall than the condensed formats.


Post a couple examples of that Pronto Hex and check whether the second value (right after the 900A) is fairly consistent.

That second value encodes the modulation frequency. The Pronto NG's are pretty inaccurate about measuring the modulation frequency. Also, when they condense a signal they store the captured frequency, but when they actually use the condensed signal, they ignore that frequency and change it to the nominal frequency for that protocol.

The most common reason for a signal to fail to work after it is captured in 900A form, is that the original frequency is significantly different from the nominal. If that is the problem, you can estimate the original frequency from a few examples of that second number. Then my MakeHex program can be used to generate the long form Pronto Hex disguised enough that ProntoEditNG won't recognise and convert it again.


I don't understand that one either. But I guess it's better to first figure out whether that's the issue before chasing frequency issues.

Sounds like the remote is faulty. If the learned code is good, then its contents should not affect performance at different distances. That's what weak batteries and broken Prontos do.

As an aside, there exist Pronto hex and CCFs for all the components/brands listed in this thread. Either posted in the file section or in one of the forums here. There's likely no need to learn all the buttons from the original remotes. I'm also willing to bet most of the required codes are also built into the UDB on the Pronto (certainly the Onkyo and Aiwa I would expect).

Bruno

im gonna get some more new batteries on the way home tonight. not sure how diff that could make.
i did get it off ebay for 70$, was hard not to try it. the thing is in perfect physical shape and function otherwise. but i do have some options. dont think it would hurt to try some new emitters, the soddering isnt a problem.
and the very least i could/should be able to get an RF repeater and skip the pronto's emitters.

Do you have any remote eye systems and emitters on your equipment? If so, they could be picking up interference and causing the pronto not to work well. It would usually mess all remotes up though.

no, i dont have anything.
fanciest thing i own is this pronto i just got.

oh and ya, the philips tv code was the 6 segment but it was like this..
--5000 0000 0000 0001 0000 000C

This message was edited by night on 04/12/05 00:36 ET.

That is an RC5 code which is common for Philips to use.

As for batteries, if you are doing a lot of stuff on your Pronto, they don't last very long.