I replaced the glass only. This require some quiet time
and good lighting. There are actually 2 ribbon cables-1
ribbon cable is from the digitizer glass screen and is
easily removed with a miniaturized version of the type
of connection used to connect some laptop hard drives.
The black clip slides away from the center of the processor
board to the periphery of the board. The larger of the
ribon cable is removed by rotating a very small arm/clamp
counterclockwise into the processor board. Mine was a
bit sticky in removing the ribbon cable from the second
connector.

I placed each part in order as I removed them and assured
that the unit booted after installing the ribbon cables
and before installing the remaining parts.

One note, the plastic cover for the USB port and the docking
connector is a small separate piece that mus be placed
before "sandwiching" the back piece back on to the unit
and securing with the 4 torx screws.

As mentioned in other places the basic steps are:
1)remove slide out back panel and battery
2)remove 4 torx screws and pull case back off the pronto
exposing the processor board.

3)remove the 3 torx screws affixing the processor board
to the mounting posts.
4)gently remove the 2 ribbon cables as instructed above.
5)the channel/vol button row and a rectangular mounting
/spacer piece wil likely pop out, and the contact pad
for all the hard buttons will also pop out
6)you will be left with lcd screen embedded and protected
by a metal rectangular case to which the flat glass lcd
screen is affixed (aggressively).

7) Use an exacto blade and separate the glass at the junction
to the metal frame and separate the glass (which may split
into 2 elements-glass/plastic) from the metal frame. The
ribbon cable connected to the digitizer glass is adhered
to the back side of the lcd cage and can be slow separated
by gently pulling.
8)Scrape/clean all the adhesive residue from the metal
frame.
9)Take out the new glass digitizer screen-placing the
digitizer ribbon cable in the same place as before it
was removed. Remove plastic protection from anterior and
posterior surfaces new digitizer glass. Remove paper cover
from 1/8" double backed tape and line up accurately and
align/place on to metal frame.

10) Put humpty dumpty back on the wall.

Good luck.

Did you click the links in the first post at the top of
this page? More that likely, you will need only the Glasstop.


However, before ordering one, ensure that using a smooth
business card, that you can run it around the edges of
the entire screen to make sure that nothing's wedged between
the bezel and the glasstop. Sometimes, things get wedged
in there and effectively make the touch screen non-responsive
as the garbage wedged in there triggers a false press.

I spoke too soon part two. A day after the replacement
a small crack appeared at the edge, a 2nd day later another
crack on the bottom right and the third day later a long
crack all the way through. I"m sure I put the unit back
together properly. I can't understand what would cause
stress cracks in that manner. If I over tightened the
torx screws maybe but I just snugged them up. What ever
the reason I am left with the decision to try again or
just get a different remote.