For a while now, I've had a very, very small hairline scratch on my RC9200 screen.

Tonight, I finally got the part #. The part number for the screen is LFH8P4181A. This is an ALPS screen and I can find no supplier on the web. However, I just found a screen on Ebay with a part # LFH8P4032B. The screen and cabling looks identical. For others reference, you may see the item at the following location.

[Link: cgi.ebay.com]

From all indications, this screen will work. If not, I'm only out $52 USD.

I've done the buy-now and am anxiously awaiting its arrival. If it works I'll post back as most likely others will be needing this information.

Wish me luck.

Lyndel

This message was edited by Lyndel McGee on 01/29/05 00:05 ET.

Bump...

It looks almost identical except for the tabs that are soldered into place on the RC9200... Should work fine, but may not be as secure as you'd like. Hope all's well there.

The tabs are there, just some of 'em may need to be trimmed off as it looks like there are 4 tabs that can fold over and be soldered. The screens (I ordered 2) shipped to me today. I'll keep you posted.

Lyndel

It's gonna work!!! I just know it. I took apart my remote tonight and the only tab that's different is the one in the lower left corner of the image on Ebay. This tab is not a wide tab but can still be soldered. The upper left tab will just need the flange cut off with wire cutters.

The screen cable that's supplied with the screens is most likely just a bit too short. However, the cable is detachable so I can use my old cable with the new screen.

Yippee!!!! Wahhoo!!!! I can't wait.

Well. Did it Work

Yippee!. The new screen works. The only very minor issues I had were as follows:

1. The 24 pin ribbon cable on the new screen was about 1/2 to 3/4 inches too short. No Problem - Just re-used the old cable.

2. The pins on the left side of the screen (1 folded over for soldering on the marantz) were in the wrong direction. Just bent em flat to make a straight pin and then soldered em in as best I could.

First, off, only the plastic coating on the glass of the touch-screen of my old screen was scratched.

If this were'nt the case, I could have simply removed the guts and re-used the old housing. However, the glass is attached to the housing (evidently with glue) so that would not work for my particular problem.

But, if you have a screen where the glass is not broken and not scratched (backlight not working or LCD not working - lines, etc...) you could simply replace the guts (LCD portion with backlight) of the screen into the old housing reusing the old glass.

The guy I purchased these from has a couple of screens left. He says he may be able to get more. As I've dealt with him and his english is not all that great, I can front an email to the guy as there are no more of these screens available AFAIK on Ebay.

If you are not comfortable doing this repair yourself, email me as I might be able to help.

Lyndel

This message was edited by Lyndel McGee on 01/24/05 20:38 ET.

Have to say. I am glad I bought a packet of screen protectors when I got my 6000.

I have screen protectors now, but not until that first screen got scratched.

Hi there, i have recently aquired an rc9200 with an incredibly broken screen and am interested in swapping the screen out. I see in a previous posting you have the screen model # as 'LFH8P4181A' but you managed to locate a screen with the model # 'LFH8P4032B'.
Did you have any problems swapping over the screens - i see in the posts you folded over the tabs and you used the original ribbon connector. Also was the housing difficult to seperate after taking the two t6 torx screws out - very nervous about seperating these things as sometime they are so tight you just wreck the whole thing trying :-(

Anyway, i see two listings on ebay.com ( did a full search on ebay.co.uk) for the screen that you got (LFH8P4032b) for $40-45 (£22-25) and was wondering if you could detail the procedure more, especially the 'glued to the housing part', does this mean you need to cut the screen from the plastic housing ?

Anyway, cheers from a remotecentral first timer !

No, you don't have to cut anything loose. The metal bezel around the screen unit, if you've seen pictures on ebay has some tabs on the outside. The front of the screen, the part you view, has a piece of glass and on top of that is the touch-screen portion. However, inside this metal housing is the LCD display and backlight.

Basically, I simply desoldered the 2 wires and the 2 tabs from the RC9200 screen, bent the tabs on the new screen such that they would go into the existing circuit board slots on the RC9200, swapped the 24 pin cable from my old screen to the new screen. Soldered the new tabs in place as they poked through the circuit board. Resoldered the 2 wires and reconnected the cable and good as new.

I discussed the glued to the metal portion as some users, if they have only a dead backlight, may want to replace the LCD guts and not the touch-screen portion. The goal behind this repair is to re-use the metal-tab part of the screen(touch portion) and only replace the LCD. In this case, you don't have to worry at all about bending tabs as you won't be using the outer portion of the new screen,only the LCD and backlight itself..

The RC9200 remote has some plastic tabs all around the unit. Once you remove the 2 screws, you have to work very carefully to separate the 2 pieces.

Start from the xmit end of the remote on the side without the contrast wheel, backlight button, and PC connection. On that side, near the xmit end of the remote, insert a very sharp knife to pry apart the pieces gently. Once you get one of the tabs to unsnap, work your way around the remote by moving in a U-shaped fashion around the remote down around the 4-way keypad and the docking station connection.

Eventually, you will get to a point where all the tabs finally break loose. While doing this, you should be VERY cognizant of the contrast wheel as you need to ensure you don't break it off when you separate the 2 plastic halves. Also, the battery connector may appear to catch when trying to separate the halves. Don't worry too much about the connector, focus on the contrast wheel.

Once you get it open, the circuit board is attached using 5 #6 Torx screws. Once you get the case open, unscrew these 5 screws and the board lifts off.

I highly recommend, this time of year, wearing an anti-static wrist strap. I also recommend obtaining a desoldering bulb, braid, or a bulb-soldersucker from Radio Shack before beginning this repair. You cannot do this repair without a #6 Torx wrench so go ahead and spend the $5 bucks at a good hardware store for one.

I'm truly happy it worked out well for you. :)

Cheers Lyndel, got the thing open, actually seperated it by wedging a credit card into the gap and sliding it along the edge. I see what you mean about the contrast wheel, it just wasnt for going past it - got it in the end though !

Luckily enough i had a t6 torx from my nokia phone fixing days and a soldering kit that still works well.

Just need to desolder the screen and purchase a new one, emailed one of the guys on ebay that was selling a screen, the alternative one (LFH8P4032B), but he hasnt got back to me yet. They are a company and are doing a special offer - 2 for $60 (£35), i would go for that option just in case i make a muck of the first one, but it only said postage in the states so i may be out of luck there. ([Link: cgi.ebay.co.uk])

There is another listing but he is selling 1 for $45, but it does state on the listing worldwide posting.

HHHHhhhmmmnnnn, dunno, do want the remote sorted reasonably soon !

I started following this thread earlier in the week as I have faulty screen on my tsu6000. I did a search on my own and found the same screen (LFH8P4032B) at a California electronic supply company. They sell the screen for $39.00, so I went ahead and bought...i hope to get it soon and will report my progress. The link to the website is:
[Link: halted.com]

Oliver,

First off, thanks for confirming my instructions and helping others to understand what it takes to get this the remote apart. The contrast wheel is really the key here. Desoldering the existing screen is not that big of a deal. Hopefully now, once you've seen the screen, you understand what I meant about the glass part being glued to the metal outer bezel.

If the Ebay ad you are referring to is the one my Martin Ly, he will will sell multiples for combined shipping. I think he has 2 screen remaining. I spoke with him over the phone the other evening and he should be able to ship internationally. I suggest buying 2 screens.

Thanks to lubedude, we also have another source. Just don't know if they ship worldwide. I just hit the website and in fine print below, they will sell 2 screens for $59.95. This is the better deal if they ship internationally as well.

Best of luck on all your screen replacement efforts.
Lyndel