I read this forum and got a 15-2116 and a JP1 cable and am well on my way! Thanks all! Has anyone tried or gotten a 2116 to work with an IR-543? (JP1 or otherwise) I don't have one and am curious if anyone's had experience before I order one.
Yeah, it works with the IR543 without the help of the JP1.
Depends on what you want and if your satisfied with your Cinema7. The RS 15-2116 will not give you much more than what you have now. It has an updated code base which is good, however, some older codes have been dropped, which may be bad. It has an LCD, which some like and some hate. The size is like the 15-1994....bigger than your Cinema7. Button layout is different. Some prefer the RS models, other the OFA's. It really comes down to a personal decision. They are also all JP1 compatible if you have that capability.
My personal likes, not to influence your decision, is the LCD, the button layout (not perfect but best I've seen), ability to program macros on the device keys (using JP1), a volume punch-through that actually works, the home theater mode (room for improvement though, starting with calling it something different from "My System") and the size/look/feel.
My personal dislikes of the 15-2116 are the missing 1s-4s buttons, not enough buttons, and a missing power key in HT mode. Keys for Replay functionality would make this remote a real winner.
I have not been entirely enthralled by all the "high end" remotes I've seen, and the 2116 fits ME the best. I've had a pronto and returned it. I still have a MX-500 that sits in a drawer. I just like the 2116 the best. However, its still not the perfect remote and would like to design my own. Your needs may be different, however, and that's why the final decision rests with you. If you've run into roadblocks with your C7, then go for the 2116. If not, then....?
I have a 1994, and 4 Cinema 7+ (URC7800). I also bought my parents a 2116 for the holidays (we gave then a DVD player, they've recently acquired a DirecTiVo, have an A/V receiver, CD player and VCR). The LCD makes programming the remote manually a bit easier, but JP1 is even easier, so at that point the LCD is useless for me.
Of these, I like the Cinema 7+ best, mostly because of the size. The only minor drawback is that it doesn't come with the JP1 connectors in place, but once that is taken care of, you are good to go.
Like the 1994, the Cinema 7+ has the 4 dedicated learning buttons, but in addition has 2 macro buttons. That's 6 more buttons than the 2116. If I were looking to buy a new remote I think I would look closely at the URC8811. It is still missing the 4 learning keys, but does have a dedicated macro button and has the fast-rewind and fast-fast-forward buttons.
If the larger size is a turn-off, then consider the URC8011 or URC6012. These dont' have larning, and aren't JP1 compatible, but can be modified to be, or can even be sent back to OFA to have a device upgrade added. When OFA does this, they actually send you one that is JP1 enabled! That's how they do the device upgrade. And they only charge you for shipping!
The 15-2116 is, by far, the best remote I've used so far IMHO. I have the Cinema 6, Cinema 7, the One for ALL 8811, the One for All 6012 (modified with JP1), a Sony 900 and now the 2116. The features I like are:
1. The IR "spread" is, by far, the best of all of these remotes! My TV is a 61" Sony XBR which is in front (of course) but all of my components are behind and to the right of the seating position. I can aim the remote ANYWHERE from straight up to the rear and it will control all of the devices. None of the others would do that.
2. The device buttons are labeled the way I want. I have a 65 year old mind and I forget which device is which when the button merely says "Aux" or "Sat/Cbl". This remote actually has everything labeled the way I want it except "Laserdisk" and I use the CD button for that.
3. Macros on the device keys using JP1. I really appreciate the macros on these keys. The Power key starts everything in the system and I can switch devices (and the TV and receiver inputs) merely by hitting any of the device keys. And, if you want to hit JUST the device key with the macro you can hit "shift" device. Easy and elegant.
4. JP1! Makes eveything so much easier. Who could go back to manual setup after using JP1?
The LCD screen is of marginal value, although I do glance at it to see which device I'm on.
The size is a little large but it has been a non-issue. I thought I would be bothered by it but I'm not.
The only problem I've had is, as usual, the Sony soundfields for my old receiver, a 50ES. Fortunately, I already had Rob's great protocol in one of the other remotes and I simply learned the codes to this one.
Wow, you guys sound like real experts. I just purchased my RS 15-2116 and am a real amateur. I have no idea how to do all that intricate stuff, just want to replace about 5 remotes. Does anybody have a code for a Kenwood cassette deck. There is not a code in the manual, tried manual search, the learning feature, but alas, no luck. Thought maybe if I had a real actual code that somebody knows about, I could save a few gray hairs. Thanks guys.
I think many of the cassette deck codes have been dropped (not that popular anymore), so learning might be your only option. I'm surprised to hear that you weren't able to learn from the Kenwood remote as they generally use the NEC protocol which is very easy for the 15-2116 to elarn.
Thanks, Rob. I may not be doing the learning feature right. My audio remote controls 4 different components so everything is on one remote. I tried holding down the tape key while doing the learning, but it didn't work. Got some codes from RS help, but no luck there either. Actually, besides that, I really like the 15-2116. I tried an RCA810 before this one and it was terrible. Clock kept crashing, then I'd be in a different mode, ugh, sent it back. Like the other fellows, I wish the backlighting on the 15-2116 would stay on a bit longer. All in all, I am really pleased with this remote. Even tho I am really an amateur, I managed to get it programmed(manually) using the my system key and the keymover for other functions. Took me awhile, tho. If you have a suggestion or know what I am doing wrong with that leaning feature and which key I should be using on the audio remote, I'd really appreciate it.
You've really got us working in the dark here, so we'll need you to help fill in the gaps.
"My audio remote controls 4 different components so everything is on one remote." Fill us in on this remote. 1. Is it made by kenwood? 2. is it a kenwood "universal". If it's not kenwood "branded", what is it? Where did it come from? packaged with your equipment new?
Holding down the "tape" key while learning. What tape key? on that "audio remote"? Is this "audio remote" a multi-device remote--Does pressing "tape" actually send a signal, or just put the remote into a "mode" to control the tape deck? Tape deck functions you'd want to "learn" are things like "play", record, pause, FF, RW, stop I don't think "tape"a function (ie, I don't think it means "tape this song" (if it did, it'd likely be a macro that 1. turns on the tape deck, 2. starts "record"). Are you thinking if you learn "tuner" you'll "learn" the full subset of commands for the tuner functions all in one batch learn? Jim
I'm sorry I didn't make myself clear. Yes, it is a Kenwood remote that came with the equipment. And yes, pressing "Tape 1" puts the remote into a mode to control it's functions(FF, RW, Record, etc.). I know that learning "tuner" would not pick up all the functions on my Kenwood remote, but I thought when I programmed the audio on "my system", those functions would be picked up. I had codes from the 2116 manual for the receiver and the CD (my components - CD player, receiver/tuner, and cassette deck are all Kenwood), but the code for the cassette didn't work. I had to put the CD player on "CD" button on the 2116, separate from the receiver/tuner mode that I put on the audio key, otherwise I couldn't move off the CD mode when my audio system turned on. These work just fine now, but I am getting bogged down when I try to figure out how to get the cassette deck programmed and to work on it's own key. I know I am probably trying your patience because I'm such an amateur at this. Sorry, gray haired granny does not a fast mind make.
That certainly helped to clear a lot up. When you learn from the oem into the 2116, you don't hold down the tape-1 device key. Your press it once to put the remote into tape mode. I would think unless you have a 2 deck cassette deck, you should only need maybe 6, and possibly up to 8 or 10 "tape functions". You could learn those to the transport keys on a device mode that doesn't use transport keys (like TV), or you could learn them to the transport keys of a new device key. If you can afford to use learning, you don't even need to worry about what that device key label is, or setting it to any setup code. Best guess is it'll be a tape, or even "vcr type" code, although it's possible that an audio code could be found to work it.. So, just learn record to the record button, pause to pause, play to play, etc. Don't do it for a device mode you're using that actually already uses those keys, like cd, which you have already defined. Jim
This past week I bought the 2116, soldered together a JP1 interface and upgraded/programmed my remote using KM and IR. I'd just like to say thanks to the folks that posted here and those who have made contributions to the JP1 interface project. The documentation was very good - I was up and running without posting a single question.
Initially I wanted the remote just to generate codes for my Sony CD changer - bought as a floor model with no remote. My Onkyo receiver's remote is pretty nice but had no CD player codes so I figured I'd learn them from the 2116. But now I'm thinking the 2116 will displace the Onkyo as my all-in-one solution.
I've programmed macros on the device keys for the devices we own. Each one will set up the entire system for playing that source - including shuting down unneeded components. Then I added a power-down macro to shut everything down. Now my wife will be able to watch TV in Dolby Pro Logic 2 and DVD's in 5.1 without any help from me. Very nice.
Only a few minor issues. The memory is limited so its important to use it efficiently. I would give up some of the learning memory in exchange for extra key-move/macro memory. Instead I chose to learn a few commands I could have key-moved. Macros that use 8 - 10 steps take about 4 - 5 seconds to execute so you must continue to point the remote at the components for a while. But I don't know if it would be any faster on other remotes since this is the first time I've tried macros. And on the positive side, I haven't found a need to insert delays (or pseudo-delays as the case may be) in my macros.
In all, this is an amazing value for $30. To get this kind of upgradability without a JP1 interface I'm thinking you'd spend over $150.
This past week I bought the 2116, soldered together a JP1 interface and upgraded/programmed my remote using KM and IR.
. . .
The memory is limited so its important to use it efficiently. I would give up some of the learning memory in exchange for extra key-move/macro memory.
That is one of the things most extenders do. Unfortunately, no one has written an extender for the 2116. The best extender is available for the 8811.
Instead I chose to learn a few commands I could have key-moved.
If that gives you enough room, great. I expect you understand that it gives just a small fraction as many functions as you would get with an extender using that memory for key moves.
Macros that use 8 - 10 steps take about 4 - 5 seconds to execute so you must continue to point the remote at the components for a while. But I don't know if it would be any faster on other remotes since this is the first time I've tried macros.
It is much faster with an extender. Otherwise, it doesn't vary much from one model to another.
And on the positive side, I haven't found a need to insert delays (or pseudo-delays as the case may be) in my macros.
With the extender, it would be more likely that a few delays and/or duration increases would be required. Typical macros are still much faster using the fast macro extender and adding back the required delays than they would be at the default macro speed.
In all, this is an amazing value for $30.
I assume that means you found cheap parts for building your JP1 cable. A 2116 plus JP1 kit is a little more than that and with a pre built JP1 cable more again, but I think it's an amazing value even if it costs $50.
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