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Topic:
New RS remotes
This thread has 163 replies. Displaying posts 61 through 75.
Post 61 made on Sunday November 3, 2002 at 09:33
TransAmMan
Long Time Member
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October 2002
29
Rob,
The device buttons work exactly as you state. I programmed a macro on the DVD button to turn on the DVD and config the entire system. The shifted buttons still perform the original function of device selection. Likewise set up buttons for CD, VCR, AUX and so on. Works great. Only thing left is to modify Keymap-master to add a new device code. I'm using way to much memory mapping keys for my receiver. Thanks for your tireless efforts as I humbly grovel at your feet.

Mr Bill,
Almost any key can be a macro and its your preference as to how you want to set it up. For my circumstance (and more importantly, my wife) I set up a macro on the device keys, eg. hitting TV turns on everything. The remote's menu will not let you do this on device keys, however, and you would need to program via the JP1 interface. Keys that the remote will not let you program onto are the device keys, scan, setup and light. I think every other key will work though. The "My System" key has a shift mode also, but it cannot be programmed through the remote.

Revwillie,
Yes the "My System" button is the same old "Home Theater" button with the same basic functionality. I prefer the home theater syntax but no one thought to ask me (or anyone else here). I havn't figured out exactly how I'm going to implement the key yet.
Post 62 made on Sunday November 3, 2002 at 11:18
slocko
Founding Member
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August 2001
221
that does it for me. i am getting one of these suckers even though I have to program it from scratch. being able to add macros to the device keys without and extender is awesome.

if upload my configuration from the 1994 to IR would there by any way to modify the devices so they can work on this new remote? or are the device codes different for this remote than the 1994. I know John said i couldn't dump the configuration, but is there an easy way to modify it? I guess macros only need to be modified slightly to remove the shift, but do i have to use new device codes? what about learned keys? do i have to relearn them? sorry for these questions.
Post 63 made on Sunday November 3, 2002 at 11:38
slocko
Founding Member
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August 2001
221
one more question. is there going to be a version of this remote without the screen that has the jp1 connector?

What does the screen buy you anyway?
Post 64 made on Sunday November 3, 2002 at 12:14
jamesgammel
Founding Member
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March 2002
1,152
Slocko,
No, you can't just use IR to download from your 1994 and upload to the 2116, the keymaps are different.
Device setup codes don't change from one ueic remote to another, their mapping does. If, for example your sat receiver uses Sat_0392 in your 1994, it'll use Sat_0392 in the 2116 also. You'll find most of the keys will be assigned the same, but a few may be shifted over to a different key name. For example, you have a "surround" key on your 1994, but there is no key called "surround" on the 2116.
You can use keymoves to juggle the key assignments some to your liking. You can also use KM and just write a new device upgrade code with all the keys assigned to your liking; the way to go if you'll need a lot of keymoves.
With keymoves and/or a device upgrade, you shouldn't have a need for any learned keys, although you can use them if you want. However, learned keys are unreliable in macros. JP-1ers rarely use learned keys except to decode them. The 2116 is supposed to be a learning remote, without the dedicated learning buttons.
You shouldn't have to "relearn" your 1994 learned keys, just use IR to decode them, then assign them via keymoves or a device upgrade via KM>IR.
The lcd screen let's you know which mode you're currently in, and maybe the device setup code it's using. There may be a "clock" function, also. It also displays the menue functions to manually program the remote.
Evidently RS has "heard the voice of the people" and paid attention to the consumers. I don't doubt they have monitored the likes, and dislikes of it's users. They may have heard about the complaints associated with the 8910, and avoided the arrow donut/select issues. The 2104 had a lot of complaints about the "recessed" P button, and reinstituted the 1994's easy to use "P". There were few complaints about the 1994/1995's layout, and use methodology. They likely decided on a 1995 format with the sammy processor since that combo had the highest liklihood of getting a following.
A 2116 without the screen is basically the 1994. The 2104 was the "replacement" for the 1994. Hmmmmm, bring back the 1994 with a new name and some slight changes? Perhaps not entirely a bad move.
Jim
Post 65 made on Sunday November 3, 2002 at 14:27
TransAmMan
Long Time Member
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October 2002
29
Slocko,
The best way that I found to transfer info from one remote to another was to do a summary in IR.exe. The summary includes all the codes and macros programmed in your remote. I only had one learned signal and defined it directly this time. I printed the summary info and used that to reprogram the new remote. Took only a few minutes to re-input everything. If anyone can suggest a better way that would be great.
Post 66 made on Sunday November 3, 2002 at 15:45
JackRelahan
Long Time Member
Joined:
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November 2002
20
I have the new RS15-2116 Remote.
Using the JP1 Connector and IR307
program, I have to remove the batteries
for it to upload. Is this normal?
The reason I ask is that when I use
my RS15-1994 remote, I leave the batteries
in the remote.
Thanks
Jack Relahan
Post 67 made on Sunday November 3, 2002 at 16:24
jamesgammel
Founding Member
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March 2002
1,152
Jack,
I have a 1994 and a 6800, and I can leave the batteries in. Others have reported having to take the batteries out for some, so maybe some models have their own little quirks about this. As long as IR uploads and downloads properly and you don't lose programming, just use which ever method works best for each remote and don't worry about it. However, if both ways still has problems, some adjustment may become neccessary.
Jim
Post 68 made on Sunday November 3, 2002 at 16:36
The Robman
Loyal Member
Joined:
Posts:
August 2001
6,218
Just remember that the "simple" interface acts like this sometimes, it's the price you pay for an interface that's so easy to build. To make the interface machine-proof would make it harder to build.

So, to answer your question, "yes" it is normal. Some remote's will need the batteries, some won't, and other's won't care. Then when you try it on a different PC, you'll get different results.

Rob
Rob.
[Link: hifi-remote.com]
Post 69 made on Sunday November 3, 2002 at 22:42
JackRelahan
Long Time Member
Joined:
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November 2002
20
Thanks Jim & Rob for your inputs.
Uploading and downloading seems to work ok.
Not much programed yet.
Each time I remove the batteries I have
to reset the remote clock. Think I'll wait
until I'm done programing before setting the
clock again.
If I discover anything new, will pass it on.\
Jack
Post 70 made on Monday November 4, 2002 at 08:04
TransAmMan
Long Time Member
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October 2002
29
Each time you program via JP1 it will reset the clock also, even with the batteries in. So, as you suggested, wait until your done before messing with the clock settings. There was a cool extender for the 1995 (I believe) that set the clock to your computers time when programmed. Might be fun to figure that out for the 2116/2117.
Post 71 made on Monday November 4, 2002 at 09:58
slocko
Founding Member
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August 2001
221
out of curiousity sake, what would happen if you take a 1994 dump and try to upload it into the 2116?

would it screw up the remote?

what would be nice if you could import macros in IR. would make it easier to move to another remote.
Post 72 made on Monday November 4, 2002 at 17:12
edmund
Elite Member
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April 2002
13,658
I picked up a 2116 from RS today. Still no 2117 or 2133 yet.
Post 73 made on Tuesday November 5, 2002 at 10:40
schivins
Lurking Member
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November 2002
7
I picked up a 2116. So far I like it.l One thing that bothers me though. Does anyone know a way to keep the display on all the time? It is LCD so as long as you don't have the light on as well, it should not drain the batteries too fast. It is a pain to pick up the remote and have to hit vol up or down to kick on the display to see what device it is set for. I would perfer to have it just display all the time or at least during the TV watching hours.
Post 74 made on Tuesday November 5, 2002 at 13:12
johnsfine
IR Expert
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Posts:
September 2002
5,159
I'm sure that you can't do any ordinary reconfiguration of the remote to change the LCD timeout. If someone wrote an extender, you could easily change the LCD timing in the extender; Otherwise, you're stuck with the built in timing.

I doubt that these remotes have ultra low power LCDs like you find in a wristwatch. While the LCD is less power than the backlight, it is significant power. Many LCDs that size would kill the batteries in just a few days if left on continuously. Hopefully the 2116 LCD is better than that; But I still would be surprised if the batteries would last more than a few weeks of the LCD being always on (unlike watch LCDs that can be on for years).

I use rechargeable batteries in all my JP1 remotes. If I liked LCDs I'd probably agree with you and (assuming the batteries lasted a week or more) prefer to recharge batteries more often but have the LCD always on.
Post 75 made on Tuesday November 5, 2002 at 15:41
MarkTruman
Lurking Member
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November 2002
3
I've been looking for a replacement for my nearly dead ReplayTV remote and was about to get a RS 2103 based on AVForum recomendations when I saw the info on the 2116. I actually had bought a 2103 and found that it worked pretty well (although it didn't really have enough keys to accomodate all of the Replay functions). I've now returned that and got a 2116 yesterday. This is really an awesome remote! It had nearly 100% of the Replay keys out of the box (and plenty left over for the missing ones). It deals perfectly with the rest of my home theatre gear with no tweaks. The reconfigurability is excellent and JP1 is there to deal with any additional tweaks needed. Hard to believe that they are really selling this for $30.
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