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Topic:
Nevo S70 - rebooting
This thread has 20 replies. Displaying posts 16 through 21.
Post 16 made on Tuesday February 3, 2015 at 11:33
RickDeckard
Long Time Member
Joined:
Posts:
November 2011
12
It worked for me too, many Thanks!
Post 17 made on Tuesday February 17, 2015 at 16:37
gevans5001
Lurking Member
Joined:
Posts:
February 2015
4
I have a s70 and all of a sudden the remote reboots every time i take it off the cradle. i have ordered a new battery but am worried there are other issues. can you please explain the fix you are referring to.
Post 18 made on Thursday April 23, 2015 at 19:10
Dave02
Long Time Member
Joined:
Posts:
October 2008
19
When I opened my S70 to apply the fix, I was able to fix the rebooting issue, but damaged the remote in numerous ways (USB port cover came out and could not refit, broke several of the contacts that hold the case closed, bent the pins that connect to the external charging points, pulled away the speaker cable and cannot reconnect) and whilst technically usable, it will no longer charge the battery.

I have since bought 2 more Nevo S70s, 1 to use and 1 more as a backup in case of problems. The 1st of these now has the reset issue and needs the fix to be applied and the 3rd one I bought is therefore now in use. My question is, is there someone in UK that is able to open my S70 and apply the fix without breaking it? I want to be ready in case the reset issue occurs on my 3rd remote.
Post 19 made on Monday July 16, 2018 at 14:31
fred0409
Lurking Member
Joined:
Posts:
October 2004
6
how do you open the nevo ?
Removing thr screws, and then?
Post 20 made on Saturday January 12, 2019 at 11:43
whsturm
Junior Member
Joined:
Posts:
January 2019
1
Thanks for the advice. I successfully soldered an old battery wire between the two switch terminals after removing the switch.

Getting inside the Nevo S70 was simply a matter of removing the two screws inside the battery compartment at the bottom and 'leveraging' off the back of the case starting at the bottom and working up each side (having taken the battery out first). When the case is loose apart from the very top, the case slides downwards to allow it to be removed entirely. Be careful at this last point as there are two wires which run from the circuit board to the small speaker (which is fitted inside the back casing). There is a plastic lug which you can lever out on the circuit board to release the cable running to the speaker.

I found that an old 'kit' of levers and small screwdrivers which I had used to previously replace a broken Apple phone screen were perfect for this job. The screws as mentioned earlier in this thread and not normal ones but 'six sided' ones.
whsturm
Post 21 made on Thursday July 15, 2021 at 17:04
RemoteQuest
Long Time Member
Joined:
Posts:
October 2008
230
I'll add some detailed instructions even though this is a old thread.

Remove the two torx screws which are visible in the bottom of the battery compartment. They are T6 and the screws are security-type with a tiny stem visible in the screw head which indicates if there was an attempt to remove. The stem just goes away; won't interfere.

Find an old credit card (old because it will get scraped). This works well however, there are many new plastic tools used on cell phones, etc. which may also work and may be easier or better. YMMV...

Read through completely before beginning!!!

REMOVE THE BATTERY!

Put a double-folded towel on your work area to protect the face of the unit and the buttons. There are times in this process where it is better to hold the unit in one hand and and work the credit card, particularly at the beginning. Later, it may work better to work the credit card when the unit is face down.

You want to remove the back, not the top. Starting near the area under the charging pins, insert the corner of the credit card and push in between the black shiny plastic and the grey colored back. Insert about 1/2" or slightly more and begin sliding the credit card around the space between these two pieces. Twist the card a bit and experiment with the depth.

Work slowly, twisting and lifting somewhat and following the curve. You should experience some pops and snaps as the connecting joints begin to disconnect. Keep working around the side of the remote, twisting and varying the depth of the card. You will begin to get a feeling about how deep the credit card should be.

As the pieces continue to separate, you can carefully begin to use you hands a bit to further separate the pieces, but not completely until you have several inches which will move. Then go back to the credit card to ease the case apart. STOP when you get to the top on that one side.

Go back to the bottom and begin working on the other side of the remote in the same manner, stopping when you get to the top. You should be able to use your hands to further open it but it may not completely remove at the top.

Carefully, with controlled force, you can slightly pivot the entire back from the bottom in a side-to-side motion while slightly-lifting the bottom which will begin to UN-connect the top area.

But go slow, with careful force as there is a speaker in the back plate with a wire which is not very long and any quick, huge moves could cause some damage. Once you get the back off, you can disconnect the speaker wire and get the whole back piece out of your way. Don't forget to connect the speaker when you re-assemble.

The switch which is problematic is on the lower circuit board, near the bottom-right corner, labeled S1. You will see it has a rocker-plunging action which you can press with your finger. The switch has only two solder connections, it is not mounted through the board with legs or anything similar. It is surface-soldered. Heat up one joint and lift one side and repeat on the other side. It should come off fairly easily once heated. But go slow and heat completely as the solder pad on the board is a bit fragile.

Any thin wire will work. It is probably easier to have a 16-20 gauge solid wire without insulation. It is easier to start with a 3-4" long piece. Sort of lay it across the two solder pads diagonally using small pliers. Tin one end of the wire first. Then solder one end and then solder the 2nd end. Cut off any excess. Check for good, shiny solder connections.

Plug in the SPEAKER wire!

To re-assemble, start at the top and and place the back cover in preparation to connect on both sides, look for connections points since you have a full view. Connect the top if you can and slowly work down fitting and nudging the back. Try not to fit it together FULLY at first. You may need the credit card to wiggle the connections points. This can be a little tricky, so go slow. If you get it too tightly connected you can use the credit card to back it away. Take your time..

Put the screws back in. Make sure the unit is powered off using the small slider switch on the top-right of the battery compartment. Plug in the battery gently, put in the battery. Pay attention to gently route the battery wires at the top of the battery if they are in the way of the wall and the sharp vertical braces.

Fingers crossed...hope it works!

Dave
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