Carlon also makes orange flex conduit (they call it raceway)
in sizes over 2".
[Link: carlon.com]You can mix and match with the same diameter PVC conduit
(gray) by simply cementing the flexible when tricky runs
are called for, and using the less expensive 2" PVC conduit
when you just need to cover some distance in a straight
line without breaking the bank.
Buy a bucket of nylon pull string, and run it through
the conduit and leave it in there... Also, try not to
use it for the cables you are pulling now, there is nothing
worse than having a conduit that is already full of crap
from the initial installation, and trying to squeeze one
more wire in it.
Buy nail guards and use them EVERY time a cable passes
a stud or plate... (this is probably code anyway)
Try not to drill holes for wire runs near the first inch
of the edge of either side of the studs or plates, think
about where the tips of stray sheetrock screws might be
able to reach and then keep it toward the center.
On these last points, I would test every wire for at least
continuity before the sheeterock goes up. I am a fan
of terminating the cables to the QuickPorts, testing them
(or even certifying them, if you have the capability)
and leaving them in the wall or behind a W.R.A.P.S. coverplate
before the sheetrock guys get in there with the RotoZips.
http://www.lvwraps.com/This means terminating the box early, but it could make
the difference between catching a cut or damaged wirte
while you still have time to deal with it.... Besides,
you will probably HAVE the time, you don't have another
tight-deadline jobsite to run to like most Pros!!!
Measure the receptacle and switch box heights (to the
center if you are not using the same type of box) and
duplicate those heights. Nothing spells "amatuer" like
misaligned boxes.
Also, try to align the center line of your ceiling speaker
brackets to the center line of any can light, pendant
light, or fan boxes in that area of the ceiling... Also,
remember that your speakers are larger diameter than boxes
and light trim rings, so DO NOT let the sparky use nail
on boxes. You will need adjustable boxes to get them
far enough away from the joists to line up your brackets.
Obviously, you don't need to do this everywhere, just
where you will be lining up speakers. It's worth the
few extra bucks.
Pull an RG-6 from the audio dist. area to the attic for
an FM antenna... It's only a few bucks worth of wire,
and the antenna (Winegard, Channel Master, Magnum Dynalab,
etc.) is cheap, but you can get rid of that G%D D&MN dipole
wire antenna that totally sucks.
Although, if you are truly as far out in the sticks as
it sounds, you may already have plans to throw up a tower...
Feel free to post pics... and don't let the neophyte
installation "experts" at AVS convince you that all pros
are dicks... Some of us are still OK.
Thank you 2nd Rick for all of your very good suggestions. I was looking for a place to get the flex conduit from.
I will take all of the info given from this excellent site and apply it to my project.
I will post pics as I go. It looks like I am a few weeks out due to some unexpected issues with my trusses. They should be done this week then HVAC, Plumbing, and the electrical, then I will follow.
I have nothing against any of the CI's or pros out there I would be using your services if there were some that were willing to travel to do my one job. I cant say I blame them it just isnt cost effective for them. That is why I am reaching out for advice from sites like this one.....