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Topic:
Cabling Drawing (Opinions Needed)
This thread has 38 replies. Displaying posts 31 through 39.
Post 31 made on Monday October 9, 2006 at 21:02
2nd rick
Super Member
Joined:
Posts:
August 2002
4,521
On October 9, 2006 at 10:57, mpnx2 said...
Run one conduit from each drop and the Leviton panel to
the attic

I do plan on doing this but failed to mention it in my
first post. I plan on 2” conduit into the Leviton panel
and the blue “smurf tube” to each drop.

Carlon also makes orange flex conduit (they call it raceway) in sizes over 2".
[Link: carlon.com]

You can mix and match with the same diameter PVC conduit (gray) by simply cementing the flexible when tricky runs are called for, and using the less expensive 2" PVC conduit when you just need to cover some distance in a straight line without breaking the bank.

Buy a bucket of nylon pull string, and run it through the conduit and leave it in there... Also, try not to use it for the cables you are pulling now, there is nothing worse than having a conduit that is already full of crap from the initial installation, and trying to squeeze one more wire in it.

Buy nail guards and use them EVERY time a cable passes a stud or plate... (this is probably code anyway)

Try not to drill holes for wire runs near the first inch of the edge of either side of the studs or plates, think about where the tips of stray sheetrock screws might be able to reach and then keep it toward the center.

On these last points, I would test every wire for at least continuity before the sheeterock goes up. I am a fan of terminating the cables to the QuickPorts, testing them (or even certifying them, if you have the capability) and leaving them in the wall or behind a W.R.A.P.S. coverplate before the sheetrock guys get in there with the RotoZips.
http://www.lvwraps.com/

This means terminating the box early, but it could make the difference between catching a cut or damaged wirte while you still have time to deal with it.... Besides, you will probably HAVE the time, you don't have another tight-deadline jobsite to run to like most Pros!!!

Measure the receptacle and switch box heights (to the center if you are not using the same type of box) and duplicate those heights. Nothing spells "amatuer" like misaligned boxes.

Also, try to align the center line of your ceiling speaker brackets to the center line of any can light, pendant light, or fan boxes in that area of the ceiling... Also, remember that your speakers are larger diameter than boxes and light trim rings, so DO NOT let the sparky use nail on boxes. You will need adjustable boxes to get them far enough away from the joists to line up your brackets. Obviously, you don't need to do this everywhere, just where you will be lining up speakers. It's worth the few extra bucks.

Pull an RG-6 from the audio dist. area to the attic for an FM antenna... It's only a few bucks worth of wire, and the antenna (Winegard, Channel Master, Magnum Dynalab, etc.) is cheap, but you can get rid of that G%D D&MN dipole wire antenna that totally sucks.

Although, if you are truly as far out in the sticks as it sounds, you may already have plans to throw up a tower...

Feel free to post pics... and don't let the neophyte installation "experts" at AVS convince you that all pros are dicks... Some of us are still OK.
Rick Murphy
Troy, MI
OP | Post 32 made on Monday October 9, 2006 at 22:05
mpnx2
Lurking Member
Joined:
Posts:
October 2006
8
On October 9, 2006 at 21:02, 2nd rick said...
Carlon also makes orange flex conduit (they call it raceway)
in sizes over 2".
[Link: carlon.com]

You can mix and match with the same diameter PVC conduit
(gray) by simply cementing the flexible when tricky runs
are called for, and using the less expensive 2" PVC conduit
when you just need to cover some distance in a straight
line without breaking the bank.

Buy a bucket of nylon pull string, and run it through
the conduit and leave it in there... Also, try not to
use it for the cables you are pulling now, there is nothing
worse than having a conduit that is already full of crap
from the initial installation, and trying to squeeze one
more wire in it.

Buy nail guards and use them EVERY time a cable passes
a stud or plate... (this is probably code anyway)

Try not to drill holes for wire runs near the first inch
of the edge of either side of the studs or plates, think
about where the tips of stray sheetrock screws might be
able to reach and then keep it toward the center.

On these last points, I would test every wire for at least
continuity before the sheeterock goes up. I am a fan
of terminating the cables to the QuickPorts, testing them
(or even certifying them, if you have the capability)
and leaving them in the wall or behind a W.R.A.P.S. coverplate
before the sheetrock guys get in there with the RotoZips.
http://www.lvwraps.com/

This means terminating the box early, but it could make
the difference between catching a cut or damaged wirte
while you still have time to deal with it.... Besides,
you will probably HAVE the time, you don't have another
tight-deadline jobsite to run to like most Pros!!!

Measure the receptacle and switch box heights (to the
center if you are not using the same type of box) and
duplicate those heights. Nothing spells "amatuer" like
misaligned boxes.

Also, try to align the center line of your ceiling speaker
brackets to the center line of any can light, pendant
light, or fan boxes in that area of the ceiling... Also,
remember that your speakers are larger diameter than boxes
and light trim rings, so DO NOT let the sparky use nail
on boxes. You will need adjustable boxes to get them
far enough away from the joists to line up your brackets.
Obviously, you don't need to do this everywhere, just
where you will be lining up speakers. It's worth the
few extra bucks.

Pull an RG-6 from the audio dist. area to the attic for
an FM antenna... It's only a few bucks worth of wire,
and the antenna (Winegard, Channel Master, Magnum Dynalab,
etc.) is cheap, but you can get rid of that G%D D&MN dipole
wire antenna that totally sucks.

Although, if you are truly as far out in the sticks as
it sounds, you may already have plans to throw up a tower...

Feel free to post pics... and don't let the neophyte
installation "experts" at AVS convince you that all pros
are dicks... Some of us are still OK.

Thank you 2nd Rick for all of your very good suggestions. I was looking for a place to get the flex conduit from.

I will take all of the info given from this excellent site and apply it to my project.

I will post pics as I go. It looks like I am a few weeks out due to some unexpected issues with my trusses. They should be done this week then HVAC, Plumbing, and the electrical, then I will follow.

I have nothing against any of the CI's or pros out there I would be using your services if there were some that were willing to travel to do my one job. I cant say I blame them it just isnt cost effective for them. That is why I am reaching out for advice from sites like this one.....
Post 33 made on Monday October 9, 2006 at 22:05
roddymcg
Loyal Member
Joined:
Posts:
September 2003
6,796
On October 9, 2006 at 20:07, QQQ said...
To not listen to you :-).

Glad I am too busy right now, I have written ad naseum in what to run. A simple search would probably enlighten one. By hey one might concider that work...
When good enough is not good enough.
Post 34 made on Monday October 9, 2006 at 22:28
CCD
Super Member
Joined:
Posts:
August 2005
2,731
On October 9, 2006 at 22:05, mpnx2 said...
I have nothing against any of the CI's or pros out there
I would be using your services if there were some that
were willing to travel to do my one job. I cant say I
blame them it just isnt cost effective for them. That
is why I am reaching out for advice from sites like this
one.....

Where the heck are you? I am in a town of 3000 in a county of 30k and there are two of us CIs here. Granted we are just 15 miles from a city of 250k in a county of 350k and there are 12+ guys there. I regularly travel 200+ miles for larger jobs. That covers all of N. Fl S. Ga and S. Alabama. Maybe if you post your location one of us can at least try to help.
OP | Post 35 made on Monday October 9, 2006 at 22:48
mpnx2
Lurking Member
Joined:
Posts:
October 2006
8
I am in Ridgecrest CA 93555.... my nearest CI or "pro" in is Bakersfield 100 miles. I talked with them and they would not come over here for one job...
Post 36 made on Monday October 9, 2006 at 23:10
CCD
Super Member
Joined:
Posts:
August 2005
2,731
Damn, is it because you live in a naval bombing range? LOL
You don't even rate a dot on my map. I thought I lived in the middle of nowhere.
I am glad to see you seem to have a good handle on this project!
Post 37 made on Monday October 9, 2006 at 23:46
roddymcg
Loyal Member
Joined:
Posts:
September 2003
6,796
On October 9, 2006 at 22:48, mpnx2 said...
I am in Ridgecrest CA 93555.... my nearest CI or "pro"
in is Bakersfield 100 miles. I talked with them and they
would not come over here for one job...

I'll wave as I go by on my trips up to Mammoth. Nobody out in the Pamdale/Lancanster area??

When I was younger and less busy we made a few treks up to Avenue M in Pamdale for some work. From the LAX area.
When good enough is not good enough.
Post 38 made on Tuesday October 10, 2006 at 13:28
tschulte
Advanced Member
Joined:
Posts:
November 2005
808
On October 9, 2006 at 19:37, mpnx2 said...
WOW its hard to beleive I will need more than 3000' of
RG6 and 3000' of CAT5

Good point about the cans I didnt think about the outlets....the
problem is that I aready have the 42" panel. I guess I
could combine it with a 28"...

When I do a custom home, I take the total length of the house, double it, and use that as my average wire length (i.e. 60ft long house = 120ft average wire run). This gives you enough to go up or down walls around obstructions (i.e. electrical, HVAC, plumbing) and have enough for termination on both ends.

You can't return it?
Just my opinion, I could be wrong.
Post 39 made on Tuesday October 10, 2006 at 16:16
cjoneill
Select Member
Joined:
Posts:
December 2002
2,174
On October 8, 2006 at 23:11, idodishez said...
The
other has all the designs and parts list already created
(he did the room design/drawings himself, and he forwarded
a parts list to me from a competitor) So basically hes
just looking for the "cheapest" route, giving me a 20
- 25k budget for a full blown dedicated theatre room,
INCLUDING all electronics, labor, control, programming,
AND all CUSTOM cherry woodworking/cabinetry.

Awesome.. When you are done with that, could you come help me? I want to put a theater in the basement.

Would you include airfare if I threw in some of the electronics? Eagerly looking forward to your response!!

Thanks,
CJ
I'm not a pro
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