I have an HP m5880n DLP RPTV. There are discretes listed but they do not work... nor do the ones that work on the plasmas. The client was OK with a TV Power Button at the top of the home page on a T3. I learned it into an IR Pro, set it on standalone output and the system was working fine.

A day later I get the call that the TV won't turn on and I go over to turn it on and off and it works fine... caveat: the owner had turned it on with the HP remote before I got there. I turned it on and off with the RTI about 10 times shrugged my shoulders and left.

Next day... same call so this time I tell him to leave it off till I get there. Lo and behold... the f----r won't turn on... no matter how many times I press the RTI button. Pick up the HP remote and it fires right up. Let it warm up and the RTI button will turn it on and off as many times as you want to (I'm probably KILLING the bulb). Let the set cool for 10 minutes and the only remote that will turn it on is the TV remote.

WTF??????????? Does it take a different code when it cold????? I don't know everything but this is simply kicking my ass. I've tried learning the code with a quick press, a hold, a double tap. I give up. anyone know somthing I don't besides the obvious get a new TV comment? I will call the RTI guys when they open but thought some of you may have run into the same thing.

call your local priest or rabbi, maybe even a cleric would work... either way get some holly water and sprink mildly.

then if that fails gett the customer a real tv...lol

I had a very similar problem with a Samsung DLP RP.

I wonder if it would be worth a shot to try the Samsung codes?

Could HP be using a command set featuring toggle codes??

Philips, Magnavox, and certain Marantz products (especially from the Philips era) are notorious for toggle codes.

In case you are not familiar with working with togglers, you can try learning an "A" and a "B" version of every code and then go into waveform or Hex view mode after the capture and see if there are any noticeable differences in the commands.

To be toggles, you may have to press another button between learned code "A and "B", just cover the emitter of the remote or point the remote away from the IR Pro and then point it back and hit the first button again.

BTW, I am going through a similar issue w/ a InFocus ScreenPlay 5000 projector.... and I could not see any differences in the commands no matter if I learned them as two sequential captures, or as captures with a different button pressed between them.

I am thinking that this one os a bad processor... I will report back if I hear anything that could be of value here.

At first I though - like Rick - that it was a toggel code issue. But I am thinking tht is not the case due to the always working once it is on and warmed up. Seems more like a gremlin in the firmware.

Which of the firmware updates have you done to the television?

I had problems with the same television last month, and a few things seem to be better after the first firmware update. I think the update alleviated some of the control issues.

I don't think the second one did much for control.

I don't know if this will be of any help, but from what I remember of the Samsung....

If I did a discrete off then discrete on would work providing that I did it prior to the fan shutting off.

After the fan shut down, discrete on wouldn't work, but power toggle would.

Therefore, discrete on= discrete off, power toggle

Wow.. this seems like the similar problem I'm having with a Sony Plasma (client's existing unit).

[Link: remotecentral.com]

It sounds to me like the code you are using on the RTI is some kind of a "hibernate" and "hibernate release" button. The HP remote is sending power commands. Maybe if the TV is left in "hibernate" over night it powers off, thus not allowing your "hibernate on" code to wake it up.

????????

Is it possible that you can fire up the set from cold with a different code? Perhaps with a channel number; '1' for example? Or is it power button only?

If the '1' command worked, that might get you out of trouble.

What about adjusting the output level of the IR flasher? I had this problem with a projector once until I adjusted the IR output. Maybe a slight difference in current feeding the IR receiver circuitry- affected by the state of the TV - causes it to be more or less sensitive.

Try learning the codes into another learning remote first such as a pronto or something. Then re learn the codes from that device. it's also possible there is an inherent problem with the on board reciever