front Ir emitters have always been my go to solution for control when rs232 wasn't an option but thats mostly because the rear ir most alway never seems to work. I was woundering if anyonecould tell why and maybe give me a solution to the rear IR port?

yamaha always seems to work. pioneer elite use to work but i dont know since i quit selling it 2 years ago. marantz worked with an interpetor by xantech. i havent had to use a front mounted ir on a receiver in a long time.

B&K's work (can't remember a system that it did not work on)...

NAD sometimes do and sometimes do not. A little inconsistent.

Parrasound, Pioneer, arcam, integra spot a best.

I deal mostly with AMX, some equipment with IR ports on the back only work by removing the carrier signal, which AMX and Crestron can do, I believe Xantech makes a product that you put in line that will do this as well. If that doesn't work, I prefer to remove the cover and put the emitter inside the piece of equipment.

We use Rear IR whenever we can because it is more reliable. No return trips for emitters falling off, super glued to the front, etc. All Denon equipment that has the room to room (Rear IR) can be connected and they do work. So does Sony (S-Link) and LG.

Mike

Oh yeah, the only downside to rear IR jacks is that some pieces of equipment disable the front receiver when you plug something into the back, you need to plan for that if you are using the rear jack for a control system and then still want to be able to control the Eq with a local remote.

if there is no rear input we will put the emitter inside...on some devices we have to remove the shell...but now we have the new shelless emitters as well as regular from Xantech

Dont put the blink emitters inside the equipment...freaks out the home owner...they see the emitter blinking from inside and usually call about the device acting weird

We use Integra(rear plug), some Sony(rear plug), Dwin, DVDO, most owners equipment we put the emitter inside

Some IR jacks are for a unmodulated signal

Many of the newer Marantz pieces have a regular IR flasher input on the back, including SR5600 and up Flasher inputs, the ZS5300, the new tuner, and others. For some of the older equipment you have to use the Xantech adapter into the RC5 input.

Oh yeah, they actually work too! And they all have discretes.

Seems to me i read an article a while back that talkied about the fact that the rear IR wiring varies from manufacturer to manufacturer ( no standard). Some use a common ground, and some polarity protocols are different.

I have found Integra's IR in jacks to work great sometimes...and be very spotty on others. ..can be very very frustrating.

Sony has actually started accepting IR in on some of their newer "s-link" jacks. ...amazing (for sony)

The issues hinge on the connections and the carrier frequencies that the circuit will accept.

Xantech's 794-xx and 797-xx series adapters solve pretty much all of these issues. [Link: xantech.com]

Some designers balk at the idea of an additional $70 for each component when a $7 emitter on the front works just fine...

Or, you could use this as yet another reason why you should use RTI.
RTI's library manager will allow you to modify/remove the carrier.

I just plugged in an emitter w/mono 1/8" into the ir out from a Denon dcm380 to drive a Moto dctxxxx cable box. System already had in place an old school Niles IR repeater system that we kept in place & replaced all the other goods a couple months ago. The dcm380 was linked to an avr1906 from its ir out. Worked fine. I was in a hurry to wrap things up on a Friday night, St Patties day no less, and did not want to spend the time to figure out polarity to hard wire to the old Niles box.

Xantech is pretty good about having an up-to-date list of products that use these adaptors, giving you the switch settings for the adaptors to work correctly.

Seems to me that you should get a copy of that list. If the product you are working on isn't on that list, either it is too new, or it doesn't need to be because the Xantech piece isn't needed. I'm pretty sure the Xantech device doesn't have switch positions that allow the signal to just pass through, that is, spend $70 for a device that does nothing!