I did my first retro whole house audio install. It went pretty well. No surprises, however, it was a little tricky finding the exact location of the speakers and vol control. I drilled up from the basement and fished up, but the electric cable I was using for reference was no where near where it looked like in the basement, so I had to drill a few times, but no big deal, just some time wasted. I want to ask some of you who have done this hundreds of times if you think using a long drill bit (3' or 6') and drilling down from the speaker cutout and vol cutout is a better way to go. I would think it would save some time because you can drill down, attach the wire, and pull back up as opposed to drilling up, fishing up, looking for the speaker hole, etc. Also, where is the best place to shop for a long drill bit set, one that can use interchangeable lengths? I saw a few at home depot, but they were all fixed length. Thanks.

Using a long drill bit makes me nervous especially if I don't really know what's in the wall. I often use a reference bit first to drill through the floor, then I can go down to the basement or up the attic to see exactly where the bit is with reference to the wall cavity. The bit I use is from "Labour Saving Devices". It looks like a thin wire but is actually stiff and flexible and it fits on your drill. It's so small you won't even see the hole it leaves through drywall, wood floor, or carpet.

see "wire bits"
[Link: lsdinc.com]

Never use a long bit if there is another option, one slip-up and you're doing that job for free. With no reference other than the electrical wiring I'm surprised you didn't drill through the floor. I always use a bit or other reliable reference point before drilling up. A bit is usually the best option but I'll also use floor vents, exterior walls, high/low voltage wiring, plumbing, and air returns. Retro-fitting is something that the more you do the better you'll get, after 18 years I'm still learning and refining my techniques.

LSD is the best , I met those guys at CES a couple of years ago. I have used magnapull but wasn't impressed with it. I bought my set from an retiring electrician about 2 yeas ago. I have the extenders but the bits I have had sharpened 5 times.

About the only thing the long diversibits are good for is retro security jobs on windows and doors. I would never drill "in the blind" without first spotting where you are going. Had a job years ago where I was retroing in a security system and was drilling the kitchen window above the sink. Got through the sash no problem. Pushed my bit down and heard a mettalic sound as I tapped the cast iron waste vent in the wall. Tried to "walk" the bit down along the front of the pipe and hit the old plaster in the wall. Triggered the drill and my bit popped out into the corian backsplash. Happened so fast that I did not have time to think about it. Ended up Paying out more for repairs than the job made.

Ouch Corian.......WOW. Now that's pain. I have a job right now where I am drilled agianst a plate running horrizontal in the wall and I refuse to drill thru. The designer is pissed. but I ain't drillin'.

Have him drill it. We'll see who ends up pissed.

Thanks for all the help. Can you buy any of the LSD products on the internet, or only through the distributors they list on their site? I am going to give the reference bits a try.

I bought from them at vegas.
You can try if your order is big enough they will sell to you

Ditto all the suggestions above, and add a tape measure to the list. I like to take measurements from the basement staircase - you know, 54" over and 92" across or whatever... gets you quite close if you're careful.

LOL!!

You gotta carry your balls in a wheelbarrow! I have all different diameter & length flexbits from Greenlee I picked up at a local electrical supply house as well as various ones from Home Depot. They work great & save lots of time. You do have to follow the ancient rule of measure twice, cut once. I've only come up once through a hardwood floor & twice out through sheetrock. All fixable. Hardwood can be plugged & drywall can be patched. I've done way more damage with a drywall saw. All of it was repairable as well. Erik

I use long flex bits in retro work all the time. Up to 6 feet. With that said, I believe long bit work is more art than science. Also, best advice I can give is picture the house naked. Imagine the walls sans sheetrock. Where is the nearest bathroom or kitchen(remember the h2o, ABS vents, drains etc.), do they have radiant heat, receptacles, gas appliances, sheer walls, etc. If you can picture the walls naked and have some experience in building, you should be alright.

Of course, you can always practice in your own home first.