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Topic:
connecting speaker wire at kp location
This thread has 37 replies. Displaying posts 1 through 15.
Post 1 made on Friday February 10, 2006 at 23:34
idodishez
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When you guys pre-wire w 16/4 to the KP location, and then 16/2 to the speakers, how do you generally connect them? (When using KP, not in-wall volume control, and the ends need spiced together)

Solder & Heatshrink?
Solder and tape?
Scotchlocks?
Wire nuts?
masking tape?
bubble gum?
No, I wont install your plasma with an orange extension cord hanging down the wall.

www.customdigitalinc.com
Post 2 made on Friday February 10, 2006 at 23:49
rguy
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crimp connectors
Life is short, enjoy yourself!
Post 3 made on Friday February 10, 2006 at 23:55
AnthonyZ
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wirenuts then wrapped in elec. tape. Ziptied to screw in stud so as to provide easy access in the future if necessary.
"Just when I thought that I was out they pull me back in"
Post 4 made on Friday February 10, 2006 at 23:55
Glackowitz
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We dont use 16 gauge wire..but use wire nuts and then Zip-tie all wires to prevent them from being pulled on and pulled apart

OK we have used 16ga from time to time but 98% of the time its 14ga
There's no worse feeling than that millisecond you're sure you are going to die after leaning your chair back a little too far.
OP | Post 5 made on Saturday February 11, 2006 at 00:01
idodishez
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On February 10, 2006 at 23:49, rguy said...
crimp connectors

You mean like the automotive "butt" connectors?

Telephone "scotch lock" types? (20 ga and above is all I can ever find)
No, I wont install your plasma with an orange extension cord hanging down the wall.

www.customdigitalinc.com
Post 6 made on Saturday February 11, 2006 at 00:49
roddymcg
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Crimp/butt connectors. Usually run 14 guage, but either way I crimp it. Klein has a sweet crimp tool.
When good enough is not good enough.
Post 7 made on Saturday February 11, 2006 at 01:57
jayson
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If you get a decent micro torch it doesn't take much longer to solder and shrink.
Post 8 made on Saturday February 11, 2006 at 02:39
pilgram
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On February 11, 2006 at 01:57, jayson said...
If you get a decent micro torch it doesn't take
much longer to solder and shrink.

Unfortunetly, it does.

By the time you cut the heat shrink, slip it on all four connections, get the torch and fire it up, find the solder, solder the connections,and shrink it, you've added 5 to 10 minutes per keypad.

Multiply that by 12 or 18 keypads and it adds up!

Generally, walls don't vibrate too much and there isn't alot of moisture(hopefully!) to require the solder/heatshrink method.

If it's an outside connection, i recomend it.

If you've added an extra hour or two into the bid, go for it!

Without a doubt, it's the best connection,but, overkill for the inside stuff.

I've used crimps for 18yrs without a problem!

The Klien 'stake-on' crimpers rule!
Every day is a good day.......some are just better than others!

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Post 9 made on Saturday February 11, 2006 at 09:04
ATOH
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We use this type of crimp:

[Link: idealindustries.com]

There are other companies that make these also.

Then use a Klein crimper model number 1005. I'd provide a link but they're website works in frames so it doesn't show in the address bar.

I used these two pieces for years while in car audio and when that company moved into home and CI we kept using them. Just wire tie the wires to the box or to a staple on the stud that way they never get lost and you should be good.

The only reason we do this is for those "just in case" situations. In case they want to upgrade, or maybe when they move they want to take the system out and just put in volume controls for the next owner.
Why all the fighting and cussing? Can't Dave play nice? We're just here to learn and have fun. It was a harmless jab, laugh and get over it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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or do the work!!!
Post 10 made on Saturday February 11, 2006 at 12:40
Larry Fine
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On February 11, 2006 at 09:04, ATOH said...
Then use a Klein crimper model number 1005. I'd
provide a link but they're website works in frames
so it doesn't show in the address bar.

Post 11 made on Saturday February 11, 2006 at 12:47
modom
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Hey! that's mine. Which job did you find it on?
Mark
Post 12 made on Saturday February 11, 2006 at 12:52
Tom Ciaramitaro
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Larry torches, solders and heatshrinks all his electrical work, too.
There is no truth anymore. Only assertions. The internet world has no interest in truth, only vindication for preconceived assumptions.
Post 13 made on Saturday February 11, 2006 at 13:14
modom
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We've got to remember that no matter how great that connection is at the wallplate, it's still a spring clip or binding post at both ends. Wire nuts or crimp connections will work just fine if moisture isn't a problem(and if moisture is a problem inside a wall cavity you have bigger problems).
Mark
Post 14 made on Saturday February 11, 2006 at 15:23
ceied
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we dont do that at all... we run 14/4 to the first speaker then loop it to the second..... i dont see a reason to go to the keypad location then break it out to 14/2 what a waist of time and energy......

we have not used v/c ever so its a moot point for us. when we prewire its for something that requires cat5 for keypad and then speaker wire to speakers.

maybe we have been lucky all these years but i cant imagine running speaker wire to the keypad location...not even when we use a matrix audio peice.......we still use cat5 for keypads

sorry for rant

ed
Ed will be known as the Tiger Woods of the integration business, followed closely with the renaming of his company to "Hotties A/V". The tag line will be "We like big racks and tight holes"...
Post 15 made on Saturday February 11, 2006 at 15:42
modom
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I guess we have a lot of clients that would like keypads but by the time the builders cost overruns have been paid we are lucky to get a volume control and a zone 2 sold.
I just feel that the keypad/volume location is as good as any for that 4 conducter to 2
transition.
Mark
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