I am going to be installing an alarm system in my house. I currently have old wooden windows which I will be replacing in the future with vinyl windows. I was told, by an ADT salesman, that the hidden round contacts are not compatible with vinyl windows. He said you cannot drill into a vinyl window. Is this true?

you can, but you need to know where to drill. Need to stay out of the areas where the weep holes are and use lots of silicone sealant.

Tell you anything to get you to buy what they want to sell you...Doen't matter if it's what you really need....

You can drill the windows, but you have to be very careful. The vinyl windows are chambered... the bottom chamber needs to be sealed.

The supplier of the window might have a cross sectional cutout for you to see how it's constructed.

One trick I used to do was drill the contact bit all the way through into the wall; then, I drill a 3/4" hole saw through the top layer only. That makes it easy to get the silicone tube tip down to the lowest point of the vinyl window chamber to make the seal around the reed switch shell. I'd then fill in the area up to the top surface of the internal window sill with white silicone.

You're going to see the silicone around the contact, since it will be sitting in the center of the 3/4" hole. Make it look clean.

The ADT salesman is correct in warning you about this situation.

Be aware that the warranty for your window MAY BE VOIDED if you drill them through the bottom sill.

Nuts is right, don't silicone the weep holes either.

Be careful.

Thanks for your replys...

BigPapa, thanks for the great detail. I even printed it out!

So if I install them now in my wooden windows, am I going to have to run new wires when I get the new windows?

I don't really have a problem using standard contacts, although hidden is always nicer. But I think with my current windows, hidden would be much easier. Just drill down and fish wire. I have never installed an alarm before, but have lots of wiring experence. I assume for a standard contact you would pop off the molding and drill behind it to run your wire? If thats correct, my problem is I don't think I can get my molding off without breaking them.

BTW, whats a weep hole?

Thanks again!

a weep hole is for when water gets on the sill and it is allowed to "drain". This only applies to vinyl windows. Ususally found on the sides and can either be a slit or a drilled 3/8. DO NOT USE THE PREDRILLED 3/8. That will void the warranty. Then there are little slits in bottom outside of windows for water to "weep".
Why pop off the molding, just get some 3-4' divesibits to drill right down through the bottom plate into basement.
Like that idea bigpapa about drilling 3/4 top and 3/8 low in channel. Have always just done 3/8 3/8 and put tons of silicone in there. So far have never had to go back and service tho. bet its no fun pulling them out after the fact.

Thanks again for your very quick response...



I was planning on drilling straight down through the bottom plate. When I mentioned popping off the molding I was assuming thats how you would run the wire for a standard non-hidden contact.

not neccesarilly, you can drill straight down through the windowsill into the bottom plate in wall.

of course, make sure to leave an extra 12-18" wire in wall when you put new windows in. then you just have to fish over get into new window for the flush mounts. Why not just put them in the old windows and then you do not have to move them later and have to deal with hole in windowsill.

Thanks again... You have been very heplful. I guess it is easiest to use them in the old windows too. When I do replace the windows (which probably wont be for a while anyway) how would I go about fishing the wire into the new window? Once the new window is in it will be covering the hole and wire.

The odds are that the new windows will not be a tight fit, so there is some room to play to get contacts in later.

Cool... Thank you very much for all your help. Theres a pretty good chance I will end up installing the windows myself (with the help of a contractor friend) so that should probably make the re-wiring pretty simple. Thanks again.

If the contact is at the bottom of the window you cannot "vent" the window. That is have it 4" open and still be protected. Some people like to sleep or go to town with the windows cracked for venilation. Also, if you are in an area with lightining, the reed switches can be welded closed from the induced current of a nearby lightning strike, meaning the contact will not open when the window opens. This is a problem with hardwired contacts. You could consider wireless transmitters. Caddx (GE) control panels use ITI (also now GE) wireless transmitters. They have a five year battery life from one 1/2 AA lithium battery and a range of a couple hundred feet easily. They would be easy to mount on vinyl windows with 3M double sided tape and silicone so no warranties are voided, no leaks and with two magnets the window can be left open a few inches and still be protected. Or just forget about the window itself and install an "alarm screen" with the wireless transmitter inside the room and the window can be left wide open with full detection capabilities if the screen is removed or cut. If you use tampered wireless transmitters on a "day loop" it will also keep teenagers inside their room at night. No sneaking out after everyone goes to bed.

Yeah you could go wireless, if you like the look. Ugly in my book. Smallest I have ever seen is still the size of a half a pack of cigarettes. If you want to do the "vent" procedure, it can still be done with a single contact and 2 magnets. Mount the contact approximately 12' up side of jamb and install one contact for closed window and one for open window. If you really want to jazz it up, do contacted screens. Should have a local guy that can make them up for you for anywhere from $55.00 to $100.00 per screen. Contact me for more details.
Chris

Thanks for your responses...

Chris, venting can be done with hidden round contacts? Thanks

Jeff