Haven't run into this before: I'm looking at a somewhat strange installation, where the wall the client wishes to have a 50" plasma mounted to only has one stud available for the mount (67" wide wall, with pocket doors on both sides).

My gut tells me that the mount secured to the stud should be OK - anyone else faced this?

Well, I wouldn't put a double-articulating arm mount on a single stud, but a flat static one, sure.

Use toggle bolts onto the drywall wherever the mount's own holes are, then drill out a few wherever the stud falls for 1/4" lags.


Doug @ HomeWorks

I believe peerless makes a plasma mount for a single stud mounting application.

Doug's got it. The stud will provide most of the actual weight bearing, while the lighter-duty drywall connections will keep the plasma stable. You can't rip the plasma out of the wall without breaking the bolts in the studs, and you can't break the bolts in the studs without breaking or shearing ALL the drywall mounts. So put in at least six drywall mounts (just guessing).

(67"


Everyone seems to be suggesting additional support with toggle bolts but I think you'd have trouble with depth of the toggle bolt interfering with the pocket doors. ( You only have about 1-1/4" inch on either side of a typical pocket door. Even if you used short toggle bolts it could interfere.
Since the bulk of the weight is held by the stud and anything else is just for stablizing you could try E-Z anchors with the tips knocked off. Supposedly good for 50-75 lbs each sheer force, they would only stick through the other side by about 3/4"

Remember when we used to mount heavy tubes hanging off the wall a foot and a half, they were only mounted to one stud. I'm betting one stud would be plenty for a plasma hanging inches off the wall..

Good luck

any hardware used in addition to the lag screws on the one stud would just be for stabilization purposes, as the lags will hold the thing to the waii. In this case, just plain old drywall screws would do the trick.

Would the stud be close to center on the bracket, or way off to one side. That would be my main concern.

And if you have pocket doors all around, how about that gray super duty double sided foam tape from 3M. It's rather thin. I'd bet it could hold it without anchors... Wouldn't do it, but I'll bet you could. It's about $3.50 for 60" at the hardware store.

Two sided tape??
Jay, I REALLY hope your joking, and if you are you need to say so.

If the bracket is lagged into the single stud, you will still need some extra support (and two side tape is not anywhere near strong enough)

I have pocket doors in my own home, and my doors have been there for 30+ years. They have 3/4" wood slat studs at 16" on center to attach the wall materials. I see newer pocket doors on jobsites that have metal strips instead of the wooden slats, but I have an idea either way...

I would make a small test cut by one of these strips, and see if your pocket door frame has 3/4" wood or metal strips for the wall materials. If they are wood, determine the exact depth you have from the face of the bracket to the back of the strip, then grind down or cut down a lag bolt with a hacksaw and mount them. Even 3/4" of threads from a lag bolt biting onto hardwood or plywood will give as much support as a heavy wall anchor in drywall alone.

Pre-drill and secure this and make ABSOLUTELY sure that the cut off bolt doesn't go any deeper than the backside of the strip (have the door out of the pocket space and use your finger in your test hole)
You don't want to pay to replace or refinish the door.

If they are metal, use fat but short sheet metal screws and cut them down the same way, you will probably need washers to keep the heads from going through the bracket's holes.

If this is new construction, have the GC put a 3/4" plywood strip from top to bottom between the metal strips for you and screw the heck out if it with shallow or cutoff lags.

Let's think outside the box a bit...forget the wall...why don't you suspend the plasma from the ceiling...use aircraft cable.

Use the Vogles bracket. I jsut did one for a 50" pioneer. It only get mounted to one stud and it is articulating...

Lonny

The Vogles brackets are cool...if you don't have a lot of wiring to conceal...sometimes the cheapie plastic covers pop off.

That 2-sided grey tape with the red tearoffs is incredibley strong. I always keep a roll on my truck. It is great for the small LCD with big DC transformers. Put a few strips of the 3m tape on the back, and it will never come off.

Kind of off topic...sorry.

I can't remember the brand, but someone makes a white nylon (not plastic) wall ancor. I have used them a couple times on the outside holes for the brackets.

Mike

For a good night sleep after this type of job this is our standard as well.

3M tape does seem a little.. permanent. But just in case it does tare off the wall I would apply a thick coat of pig grease to the back as well so the fall will be smooth and not scratch anything cheap on the way to floor.

Make sure it is actually a stud, and not just part of the flimsy 2 X 2 end of the pocket doorframe!