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Topic:
staples. bridle rings, etc. ???
This thread has 30 replies. Displaying posts 16 through 30.
Post 16 made on Friday February 18, 2005 at 11:07
Larry Fine
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If I may offer a "compromise": Use a staple to secure a wire wrap vertically, pull it to a small loop, and then insert a second wrap to bundle around the wire(s). No metal-to-cable contact.

Another alternative would be to screw on the plastic wire-tie base that has slots for the tie. For running one or two drops down a stud, I usually use the omega-shaped staples in a stapler.

You can also use the stacker standoffs made for NM cable. Most of them have 4 slots designed for two NM cables per slot. They'd hold a gaggtle of CAT- lines, and take about 5 seconds to nail.
Post 17 made on Friday February 18, 2005 at 11:10
AHEM
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On 02/18/05 07:41 ET, Dadio said...
The inspector did not like the fact that there
could be contact between the romex staple and
the wire which, after several years of movement
due to expansion/contraction & settlement etc.,
could chaff through the wire and cause problems.

Is Romex allowed in your local?
Post 18 made on Friday February 18, 2005 at 12:21
Larry Fine
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On 02/18/05 11:10 ET, AHEM said...
Is Romex allowed in your local?

Good point; maybe they allow NM staples but not NM cable.
Post 19 made on Friday February 18, 2005 at 12:41
2nd rick
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Geez. The inspectors never give me grief.
I use romex staples with velcro to tie ALL of my LV cables running vertically to and from the panels.

Maybe it's the kind of staples??
I don't use the kind that are thick wire staples, I use the ones with two tiny brads and the entire "bridge" part is plastic.
[Link: gardnerbender.com]

I hammer two of them vertically, side by side, spaced enough for the bundle to neatly lay between them.

I run the velcro under the bridges of both staples and then up and around the bundle, loosening and/or opening the velcro straps as I need to accomnadate additional cables or jumpers until the panels are done.
Rick Murphy
Troy, MI
Post 20 made on Friday February 18, 2005 at 19:26
Larry Fine
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I think we have a winner!
Post 21 made on Friday February 18, 2005 at 21:39
Dadio
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On 02/18/05 11:10 ET, AHEM said...
Is Romex allowed in your local?

I asked myself the very same question.

In my book, the potential chaffing of a wire carrying 120v is a lot more to worry about than Cat 5 or RG6 etc.

At least now we don't have to worry about the Sparky's nicking our buckets of romex staples. (Don't think they have figured out how to use zip ties yet).
Live each day like it's your last. One day you'll be right.
Post 22 made on Friday February 18, 2005 at 22:50
2nd rick
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On 02/18/05 07:41 ET, Dadio said...
...I've always felt it better to have these guys
working with you rather than against you, and
that it doesn't pay to try and upset the local
inspector. (It will come back to haunt you!).

No kidding there.
One of our local inspectors moonlights at the electrical dept. of one of the super home center places, and I talk to him a couple times per month over there.
He is a great guy actually, and I make it a point to stop and say hello even if I am not shopping in elec. that day.

He officially can't make any suggestions on the job as an inspector, but we have gotten calls from people that heard of us through him. That's a little bit of an ego stroke to have a call from a friend of the inspector who says that you were given the highest recommendation for the quality of work.
Rick Murphy
Troy, MI
Post 23 made on Friday February 18, 2005 at 23:31
mr2channel
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On 02/17/05 02:33 ET, AHEM said...
I use an Arrow T25 to staple Cat5, but they usually
don't hold tight enough so I wind up smashing
them down with a hammer. The trick is to beat
it hard enough until you see the wire start to
flatten out. That's how you know when it's strong
enough to hold it.

LMAO, sorry I couldn't resist.

for a second there AHEM I thought you were an electrician :) (not you though Larry)
What part of "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed." do you not understand?
Post 24 made on Saturday February 19, 2005 at 00:24
2nd rick
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Is it bad when the blue (or gray, green, yellow, etc.) outer jacket on Category cabling turns white because it is pinched so hard under a wire staple??

What you mean the wire is pulled too tight?? How can it be too tight??

What's a 6 in. bend radius?? What am I, a trim carpenter??
Rick Murphy
Troy, MI
Post 25 made on Saturday February 19, 2005 at 00:33
2nd rick
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Sarcasm...
Rick Murphy
Troy, MI
Post 26 made on Saturday February 19, 2005 at 11:09
Larry Fine
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On 02/18/05 23:31 ET, mr2channel said...
for a second there AHEM I thought you were an
electrician :) (not you though Larry)

Right; there's no way to mistake me for an electrician.
Post 27 made on Saturday February 19, 2005 at 17:32
AHEM
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Larry, you'll get a kick out of this one.......

I recently worked on a house that was purchased from a bank repo. My job was home theater, but that's beside the point.

When the electrician arrived at the house to survey the condition of the wiring, he was surprised to find a 200A panel with nothing but 220V breakers in it.

Come to find, the original owner was something of a DIYer, and apparently he had a whole bunch of 220 breakers lying around and no single-pole 110V breakers, so he just wired all of the 110V circuits to one half of the 220V breakers.

Cool huh?

I apologize in advance for being WAY off topic.
Post 28 made on Saturday February 19, 2005 at 18:06
2nd rick
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Hey Larry, would that make the actual trip rating double what the rating is on the breaker??

This message was edited by 2nd rick on 02/19/05 19:13 ET.
Rick Murphy
Troy, MI
Post 29 made on Monday February 21, 2005 at 00:16
Larry Fine
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On 02/19/05 17:32 ET, AHEM said...
When the electrician arrived at the house to survey
the condition of the wiring, he was surprised
to find a 200A panel with nothing but 220V breakers
in it.

Come to find, the original owner was something
of a DIYer, and apparently he had a whole bunch
of 220 breakers lying around and no single-pole
110V breakers, so he just wired all of the 110V
circuits to one half of the 220V breakers.

He could have removed the tie handles, rendering the breakers single-pole units that happened to have their bodied riveted together but operate individually.

Conversely, he could also have just used the two poles to feed pairs of circuits, the only downside being a possible nuisance-tripping of one circuit when another trips.

Of coures, these two options depend on the breaker sections each properly protecting the wires attached to them, as in all installations.

The point is he needn't have wasted the second pole, unless there was need for an odd number of circuits of a given breaker rating. I've seen much worse.

On 02/19/05 18:06 ET, 2nd rick said...
Hey Larry, would that make the actual trip rating
double what the rating is on the breaker??

No, multi-pole breakers function just like single-pole breakers, each pole tripping when its current exceeds its response-curve level; they just take down the other pole.
Post 30 made on Monday February 21, 2005 at 02:13
2nd rick
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Thanks, not that i would ever be that cheap... I was just curious.

BTW, when you said "we have a winner" were you saying that you liked my solution of using two plastic saddle romex staples as adjustable width tie anchors for velcro?? or were you being sarcastic??

Rick.
Rick Murphy
Troy, MI
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