I'm trying to prep an in wall articulating TV mount while job is under construction. I don't have the actual TV yet but have a model.
Since we can't adjust the TV's height much after I need to find out the mounting holes locations on the TV so we can mount the recessed back box.
For some reason I think Ernie had this answer a while ago OR he was asking the question.

Our experience has been that you can’t trust the specs or drawings given. Either purchase and store the TV or use a mount with some flexibility.

Even this has risks. We recently purchased and stored some TV’s as a hedge against supply issues, then the customer changed the model. These were out of the mainstream models.

This is another dumb aspect about this industry.  The placement of mounting holes should be standardized.  When you are dealing with a situation like this, where there is little to no play, what you do now may not work down the road with a new TV if this one shits the bed.

Overall, I'd like the mounts to be centered on the TV's center of gravity. If a replacement set has a different center of gravity and the mounting holes move with this, then we might not be able to get the tilt that we previously had if space is tight.

Sony supplies detail drawings

If you can, and if they have the same model/series of TV, go to Best Buy and measure the hole spacing. If you can't and they don't, the locations can be derived using a clear photo of the rear and a divider (or compass- the type used for making circles). The specs will show the VESA pattern, which can be compared to the overall size in the photo. By enlarging the photo, your accuracy will increase.

Most current models of TV aren't so heavy that the CG really matters but the contours of the back and location of the HDMI jacks/power cord will matter.

LG supplies CAD drawings at the CI reference site...you need to sign up at www.reachlg.com

Well, the first thing you should do is avail yourself of all the detailed model information and watchouts that everybody in this forum will freely share with you by this simple method: tell us what the hell the brand and model number are.


The only foolproof way to get this right is to have the actual TV and work from there. I've run into TVs and brackets where all the information in the world would not have made things perfect because the mounting arm sagged more than a half inch. There's no planning for that -- only seeing it and correcting. This is best done in advance of the real installation.


You probably saw a post similar to these two.

By the way, I'd still want to have the actual TV model itself, even if you could get all the wonderful LG drawings in the universe. They say measure twice, cut once. You can't measure AT ALL unless you have the actual TV.

Response 2, with a story:

We learned more than a decade ago that all bets are off until you HAVE, taking up actual three-dimensional space in your warehouse, the ACTUAL TV that you're going to mount.

True story: about twenty years ago we installed, according to the Sony rep, the second Sony G90 projector that was sold in the US. It was a three-tube projector. Getting the mounting distance wrong would mean either that we would not be able to project a full-sized image on the screen or that we'd have to reduce the image size, cutting down the amount of light coming from the projector.

This wasn't my first rodeo, so I insisted that we open up the box, set up the projector on the floor, and physically determine the correct throw distance.

And... it turned out that the manual, still not completely correctly translated from Japanese, provided the correct distance from the screen to the lens, but called it the correct distance from the screen to the MOUNT! (Or the other way around... either way, following the manual would have cost A LOT of money for rework!

Sony has great drawings available for all of their models. Reliable dimensions, we've done what you're describing a few times.