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The following page was printed from RemoteCentral.com:
Sony A9G OLED discrete IR codes for HDMI...
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Topic: | Sony A9G OLED discrete IR codes for HDMI inputs This thread has 23 replies. Displaying posts 1 through 15. |
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Post 1 made on Tuesday September 8, 2020 at 16:21 |
Audiophiliac Super Member |
Joined: Posts: | August 2006 3,309 |
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First A9G models I have dealt with. 3 of them on this project, and I am having an issue with finding discrete input codes for the HDMI inputs. I am using URC MX-980 and 900 remotes. I have tried all the ones in their database. All other commands that I have tried function, including power, volume, cursor commands, etc. But nothing will select the HDMI inputs. Anyone else deal with this yet? I am updating one of the TVs now, crossing my fingers that it includes the fix I need. But while I am waiting impatiently for it to finish, I thought I would ask here. My next move will be to call Sony CIS and see what they might say. Surely they did not decide to remove the capability of accepting discrete HDMI input IR commands.
Last edited by Audiophiliac on September 10, 2020 23:14.
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"When I eat, it is the food that is scared." - Ron Swanson |
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OP | Post 2 made on Tuesday September 8, 2020 at 17:37 |
Audiophiliac Super Member |
Joined: Posts: | August 2006 3,309 |
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UPDATE:
Well, I thought I was home free after I updated the 77" and it began responding to the codes. I then moved to the 65" and it actually worked without needing an update. So I left that one alone. I went back to the 55" I started on, and did the firmware update. Still no joy. I rebooted the TV, re-loaded the codes and nothing. Not sure what to make of it at this point. I know the emitter is in the right spot. I have the repeats correct. I also tried moving the emitter and changing repeats without any change. Something fishy going on for sure.
So 77" did not work until the TV was updated to latest software, 65" worked out of the box, and 55" did not work out of the box, and still does not work after updating to the latest software. Only other difference is the 55" is controlled by MX900 and the other 2 are MX980. I will let you know what the solution ends up being.
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"When I eat, it is the food that is scared." - Ron Swanson |
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Post 3 made on Thursday September 10, 2020 at 13:02 |
BHuey1969 Long Time Member |
Joined: Posts: | September 2016 198 |
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What is the A9H? Do you mean A9G? Still probably won't be able to answer your question, but I don't think Sony has A9H series.
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Post 4 made on Thursday September 10, 2020 at 19:26 |
FreddyFreeloader Super Member |
Joined: Posts: | April 2004 3,243 |
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Doesn’t sound right. Gotta be something else on the discretes.
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Post 5 made on Thursday September 10, 2020 at 20:25 |
Impaqt RC Moderator |
Joined: Posts: | October 2002 6,229 |
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On September 10, 2020 at 13:02, BHuey1969 said...
What is the A9H? Do you mean A9G? Still probably won't be able to answer your question, but I don't think Sony has A9H series. A8H's are out.
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OP | Post 6 made on Thursday September 10, 2020 at 23:18 |
Audiophiliac Super Member |
Joined: Posts: | August 2006 3,309 |
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My bad. A9G indeed. Don't get me wrong, I'm not ruling out programmer error by any means. But I'm 99.9% sure there is something else at play here. I have been programming URC remotes with Sony TVs for over 15 years.
I know in the Elan database for Sony TVs, it has 4 alternate codes for the HDMI input selections. Maybe some that are not in ANY of the URC database entries. Just odd that it didn't work on 2 of the 3 at first, and then the apparent fix for 1 of the 2 did not fix the other.
I won't be back at that project until October so I will figure it out and report.
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"When I eat, it is the food that is scared." - Ron Swanson |
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Post 7 made on Friday September 11, 2020 at 10:09 |
SB Smarthomes Super Member |
Joined: Posts: | July 2007 2,634 |
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Have you tried changing the IR output level on the base station? Maybe increasing or decreasing the output level would help.
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www.sbsmarthomes.comSanta Barbara Smarthomes |
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Post 8 made on Friday September 11, 2020 at 10:44 |
PSS Select Member |
Joined: Posts: | December 2002 1,520 |
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On September 11, 2020 at 10:09, SB Smarthomes said...
Have you tried changing the IR output level on the base station? Maybe increasing or decreasing the output level would help. ^^^^ Also, I'd use the rear IR input for a cleaner reliable connection. I know you're still trying to get the set to actually respond still. Good luck, let us know what ends up working for you
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Post 9 made on Saturday September 12, 2020 at 20:00 |
FreddyFreeloader Super Member |
Joined: Posts: | April 2004 3,243 |
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On September 11, 2020 at 10:44, PSS said...
^^^^
Also, I'd use the rear IR input for a cleaner reliable connection. I know you're still trying to get the set to actually respond still. Good luck, let us know what ends up working for you Just wanted to mention the IR input works great. BUT...for whatever reason they installed a STEREO 3.5mm jack for the IR input. You must cut off the 3.5mm stereo plug end off something- I use the Y adapters that used to come with Sonos players- twist the ring and tip together and splice to the signal on the 3.5 mono/URC end. Ground to ground. It’s also way better to use as heavy gauge wire as possible on the mono pigtail (not the crappy URC emitters) and quality splices (not dolphins). You can cut the plug end off a Xantech emitter and keep the flasher end to splice into a cat 5 down the road.
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Post 10 made on Monday September 14, 2020 at 11:01 |
musictoo Active Member |
Joined: Posts: | January 2005 542 |
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I've also had success adding repeats to the IR commands.
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Post 11 made on Monday September 14, 2020 at 12:23 |
SB Smarthomes Super Member |
Joined: Posts: | July 2007 2,634 |
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On September 12, 2020 at 20:00, FreddyFreeloader said...
Just wanted to mention the IR input works great. BUT...for whatever reason they installed a STEREO 3.5mm jack for the IR input. You must cut off the 3.5mm stereo plug end off something- I use the Y adapters that used to come with Sonos players- twist the ring and tip together and splice to the signal on the 3.5 mono/URC end. Ground to ground. It’s also way better to use as heavy gauge wire as possible on the mono pigtail (not the crappy URC emitters) and quality splices (not dolphins). You can cut the plug end off a Xantech emitter and keep the flasher end to splice into a cat 5 down the road. For those of you who haven't found these yet... order some! They're the perfect thing to stick on the back of TVs and other devices to connect IR emitters. Works well for transitioning from CAT or 22/2 wiring to emitters or into devices with a 1/8" plug by using the adapter and then 1/8" mono or stereo cable: [Link: easyadapters.com]
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www.sbsmarthomes.comSanta Barbara Smarthomes |
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Post 12 made on Monday September 14, 2020 at 14:55 |
ichbinbose Select Member |
Joined: Posts: | August 2011 1,824 |
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On September 14, 2020 at 12:23, SB Smarthomes said...
For those of you who haven't found these yet... order some! They're the perfect thing to stick on the back of TVs and other devices to connect IR emitters. Works well for transitioning from CAT or 22/2 wiring to emitters or into devices with a 1/8" plug by using the adapter and then 1/8" mono or stereo cable: [Link: easyadapters.com]Thanks, this reminded me to reorder as i had run out
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Post 13 made on Tuesday September 15, 2020 at 22:29 |
FreddyFreeloader Super Member |
Joined: Posts: | April 2004 3,243 |
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On September 14, 2020 at 14:55, ichbinbose said...
Thanks, this reminded me to reorder as i had run out Cool if you use these instead of splices it’s a good thing to double-up and use pairs of the CAT5 in the terminals. Single cat5 wire doesn’t like to take a lot of bending back and forth before breaking. Personally I like. Good splice, fold-over and some tiny wire ties that way you know nothing critical is bending. Again, heavy on your emitter cables.
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Post 14 made on Tuesday September 15, 2020 at 22:52 |
Malcolm013 Long Time Member |
Joined: Posts: | November 2004 461 |
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On September 14, 2020 at 12:23, SB Smarthomes said...
For those of you who haven't found these yet... order some! They're the perfect thing to stick on the back of TVs and other devices to connect IR emitters. Works well for transitioning from CAT or 22/2 wiring to emitters or into devices with a 1/8" plug by using the adapter and then 1/8" mono or stereo cable: [Link: easyadapters.com]Man those things are ugly, but functional. I almost rather hide a dolphin connector splice behind the bracket.
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"Was it for this my life I sought? Maybe so, Maybe not...
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Post 15 made on Thursday September 17, 2020 at 21:39 |
skynyrdfan Active Member |
Joined: Posts: | March 2006 666 |
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how old is the MX-900? Older units will not work with current Sony tv's with power on/off and discrete inputs...
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