Roku Ultra going HDMI into an LG OLED65C7P via Binary B-540-EXT-240-RS.

As long as the Roku is playing, no problem. Turn off TV or switch TV inputs and when trying to play Roku again there is no signal. Significantly, the “Link” indicator light on the Binary goes off when this happens.

Problem remains until the Binary is power cycled with the TV on the input for Roku.

SnapAV support suggests there must be a wiring problem, but the Roku will play all day long if the TV power or input is not interrupted.

Can’t get on site for a while because of virus situation, but hoping to find a resolution.

Thoughts?

If one of the HDMI cables between the Binary and the other unit is interrupted momentarily, does the issue clear? If so this box may help.

I recently found that this box would cure a constant complaint that Mac laptops would not reliably connect to a conference room HDMI port. I also found that replacing the cable cured the issue too. It is likely that the original cable was somehow damaged during construction. I was unable to extract the cable and inspect it. This made me suspect that the original cable was pinched somewhere in the wall because it could have been freely run. It only took me a few minutes to pull the new cable.

The "Box" that Buzz suggested is the Ethereal HDM-AIO2 and it (in this case) works by allowing you to interrupt the "Hot Plug" (effectively unplugs and re plugs the HDMI cable.
Why does this work (?) you might ask....
Well in 4K/HDR devices there are usually 2 HDMI chip sets (1.4 & 2.0) and the source and display must communicate to decide which is the correct one for the content being played. The problem that you are experiencing is due to the TV NOT shutting off the Hot Plug when the TV turned off, this also happens with a growing number of cable box's.
So, you will connect the AIO2 to a relay on your control system (if you do not have a control system check out the [ [Link: metrahometheater.com] ] CS-IRKITCCUS), every time you turn off your TV you will open the relay, and you will close the relay when the system is turned on.
You will (if possible) also give the client a "Fix it" button that will set/reset the relay, this will fix many issues when you are going back to Non HDR content.

Buzz, I will double check if re-plugging the HDMI cable sorts the issue.

Brent, thanks for the info. So, can you help me understand: when the TV fails to shut off the hotplug, why would that cause the “link” between the Binary TX and RX devices to go down?

The link is still there, but the products no longer know where they are.
Think old school "Cresnet" if power is lost/restored to a panel it will display the last used graphic but the processor will not know what to do with the Join Numbers (if shared) until it is given a page reference.

I think I get the concept. However, I say the link is down because the Binary extender has an indicator light that it calls “Link”, and this light goes out when the issue occurs. SnapAV support says this light tells us if the TX and RX are talking to one another. I’m not sure if/how this information impacts the analysis of the issue.

Because the Hot Plug has not been interrupted the system does not know that it needs to re-negotiate the EDID.

I recently had tons of problems with the 540 and a JVC NX5 projector. Could not get it to reliably work. I switched it out for a 560 and that fixed all the issues.

You could try to switch which HDMI input you're plugged into on the TV side.

So, I had the client try to reestablish the link by replugging the HDMI cable. This does not reestablish the link.

I wish I could get a better answer from SnapAV on what exactly it means when the Link light on the B-540-EXT-240-RS is not lit.

Where did he unplug at?
Source or display?

Long shot....
Roku has a secret menu to stop the Roku from trying to reset it's resolution each time. Which can result in no image.

"Re: Stop Roku Ultra from Changing Resolution back to Auto Detect
The Roku will switch back to autodetect if it believes that the tv has changed and it doesn't support the current manual setting. In order to prevent the dreaded black-screen/invalid video format it resets back to auto-detect."

Deactivate Auto:
Press Home 5 times, Down, Left, Up 3 times

Other secret menus:
[Link: lifehacker.com]

I deliberately did not specify where to unplug, hoping that both links would be tried.

Brent can check me and expand on this, but my understanding is that the Source to box and box to Display are separate links that are not very aware of each other, however, some boxes can modify or explicitly set the EDID passed to the other side.

I'm afraid I have the wrong answer: source only. Does this mean we haven't ruled out the hot plug issue?

The TV is wall mounted so the display side is challenging. Can't send an installer because of the virus lockdown.

Thanks for that. I will have a look.