We installed an Elite screen using IR control. It worked fine, but for some reason now the IR location is so picky that we need to adjust it all the time. The screen does have an rj45 for 12v trigger. We are using Control4. Is there a way to use the rj45 for IR? Or, could we use the 12v trigger with a Control4 relay?

thanks for the help!

Here is the pinout from Elite:

[Link: elitescreens.com]

Yes, it shows the IR connection right there on pins 1 and 2. But good Lord, use the trigger feature on pins 7 and 8. Do you have a receiver or some other with a trigger out feature? If so, use that instead of the C4 relay deal.

The projector may have a 12v trigger, but we don't have a wire from there to the screen. Why are you so emphatic about using the trigger over IR? Have you had a bad experience?

Also, pin 1 is orange & green, and pin 2 is orange. How would this be wired to the 3.5mm connector which connects to control4 ir input?

Thanks.

Can anyone shed light on how to wire the rj45 to ir for control4? I see the diagram, but I don't understand the wire colors.

Thanks.

"Infrared Sensor" says "IR receiver" to me not IR emitter. I would imagine you need their proprietary IR sensor...that connects to the screen via RJ45. Then you just attach an IR emitter to it. BY attach i mean tape it so that the emitter light can hit the IR receiver just like when you put an emitter on a DVD player.

An hour later and i cant get this out of my head. I think the pdf you linked to has a mistake. Pin 1 shows Orange Green. I think its supposed to be Orange/ Orange White.

Like Mac, I’m not sure you can wire IR direct to it. But, I would probably give it a try. Wire it up so that the signal from your IR transmitter goes to Pin 2 and the ground from the transmitter goes to Pin 3. If that doesn’t work, use their sensor and glue a flasher on it.

Or, the other option, I would try the dry contact. I assume C4 can put out a contact.

We would use the trigger as it is just a super reliable directly wired connection that simply works in conjunction with the projector (assuming the proj has the trigger). The screen control would hardly have any fail point at all.  You wouldn't have to address C4 connection, programming, IR misfire or IR bug going bad, etc.


Like Mac, I think the diagram has an error in the color code and should be orange+white and orange. I interpret this as a direct wired IR input. If this is a direct wired IR input you could use this to input into C4:
[Link: amazon.com]

I think it has the direct 2 wire IR for a 3rd party control system and a 3 wire IR receiver option for a freestanding IR remote.

That was my issue. The colors do not make sense. I’m going to call them tomorrow.

I don’t have a wire to the projector, but I can use the relay on the Control4 ea3 to trigger the 12v trigger.

Why would you need 3 wires and a stereo 3.5mm for ir input? I thought you just needed 2 wires with a mono 3.5mm?

If you decide to use the trigger output of the projector, be sure the projector's trigger outputs enough current to operate the screen.

I ran across this with a Marantz projector years ago. Maybe it's moot now, but check. On that one, the 12V trigger output dropped to about 4 volts when connected to the screen. I had to build a buffer stage to make it work.

You don't; just use 2. That was just for reference. They may sell those in 2 wire configuration. We buy the 3's as it covers all we would ever need like 232 (Tx + Rx + G)

Re the above question: depends on whether it's an input intended to receive a signal meant for an LED, or it's an input from an IR sensor.

The IR sensor type input will supply power, and also have ground and IR signal. The emitter signal will just have signal and ground.

It's best to use a three pin plug because if you're trying to connect an emitter while the jack is set up to supply power to a sensor, you might blow the circuitry inside the component. Of course, you might just as easily blow the LED if the tip is DC intended to work a sensor.

The upshot is: if at all humanly possible, know what you're working with. And, admittedly, sometimes it's impossible to tell. All you can do is try something.

I called Elite and they said there is a misprint in the color. It is supposed to be orange/white, not orange/green.

They also did not know if you can wire a direct ir input. He said you can try it.

I am going today to try some different combinations to see what works.

More than likely unless I can get direct ir to work, we will go with the 12v trigger on pins 7,8 connected to the Control4 ea3.

Thanks for all the help.

Here is the crazy thing:

- the screen works on IR (using a blaster on the built in ir sensor on the screen) when local on wifi

- not that you would ever do it, but when you are off location/network on the control4 app, the IR does not work well. It works sometimes. It's like the commands are not getting through.