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Topic:
TV over fireplace with stone question
This thread has 6 replies. Displaying all posts.
Post 1 made on Friday July 6, 2018 at 18:33
MNTommyBoy
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I've ran into this twice in the last week, so I thought I would see what others are doing here...

The issue is a new home, new gas FP, has an outlet, and has either a low-volt box or tek-tube ready to go. Should be easy, right?

The problem is the stone goes all the way up the wall. There is was/is no prep for a mount. Typically what I would do in a remodel situation is work with the stone guy to have an opening, pop in a 2x10, ~30" long, add the mount on when its done, you get the drift...

In older homes, I've told people to have the stone removed by a pro, then build it back out for TV etc... I just hate to tell people in their brand new home, to start tearing things up.

What say you?
"There's a big difference between winging it and seeing what happens. Now let's see what happens." ~MacGruber
Post 2 made on Friday July 6, 2018 at 18:39
Audiophiliac
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What kind of stone? If it is more than 2" uneven, its probably best to remove the stone and do it right. A good mason will make quick work of it without making a massive mess. You may even be able to use a stone blade on your circular saw and just cut out a rectangle the size you need.....if you are feeling ballsy. :)

I have done more uneven surfaces, with a mix of anchors, super long lag bolts, spacers, etc. It never looks very "graceful" in the end. LOL
"When I eat, it is the food that is scared." - Ron Swanson
OP | Post 3 made on Friday July 6, 2018 at 18:55
MNTommyBoy
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On July 6, 2018 at 18:39, Audiophiliac said...
What kind of stone? If it is more than 2" uneven, its probably best to remove the stone and do it right. A good mason will make quick work of it without making a massive mess. You may even be able to use a stone blade on your circular saw and just cut out a rectangle the size you need.....if you are feeling ballsy. :)

That would be pretty ballsy!

I have done more uneven surfaces, with a mix of anchors, super long lag bolts, spacers, etc. It never looks very "graceful" in the end. LOL

It's definitely a fake/faux something or another, 1-2" total off the wall. It feels real, but not a full size brick or anything. I can't quite tell if there's any cement board. I may just have to chalk it up to stupid builders...
"There's a big difference between winging it and seeing what happens. Now let's see what happens." ~MacGruber
Post 4 made on Friday July 6, 2018 at 19:38
3PedalMINI
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I use a 2” masonry holesaw to get to the substrate, if your lucky it’s PlYwood. This gives you a flat reference. Mark your four bolt locations as you normally would. Use the circle cutter and get to the substrate. Measure from the substrate to the stone that protrudes the furthest. This gives you how far you need to space out. Personally I use fender washers to build out the distance needed. To make it easier I stick them on a bolt and layer them until I get the measurement and wrap it in electrical tape.

This ensures your mount is perfectly flat in reference to the substraight and your not relying on the stones/lickandstick holding the panel. It really doesn’t take that much longer doing it this way then dicking around with useless tapcons and trying to pad it out with washers.
The Bitterness of Poor Quality is Remembered Long after the Sweetness of Price is Forgotten! - Benjamin Franklin
Post 5 made on Saturday July 7, 2018 at 14:12
Ernie Gilman
Yes, That Ernie!
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3PM,
Once you get to the substrate, do you then use lag bolts, or Togglers?*





*Just in case someone needs to know, but yes, Togglers, NOT toggle bolts.
A good answer is easier with a clear question giving the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw
Post 6 made on Saturday July 7, 2018 at 20:35
Hasbeen
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1.  Remove one or as many of the stone veneer pieces as you need to remove to get your plates installed.  They'll obviously be behind the TV. There are at least 40 ways to do this, so whatever way you want to do it, is up to you.

2.  Once removed, cut through the cement board, drywall, possibly plywood too.  Now you're in the cavity that's holding the flue for the fireplace.

3. Reach your hand in the hole and find the nearest stud.  Mark that location. Now measure 16"OC for the next stud either left or right.

4. Mark where you'll drill the holes for your bracket into the studs.

5. Drill the holes directly through the stone with a masonry bit.

6. Run Timberlock screws  (length of your choosing) through the stone, cement board, drywall, possibly plywood into the stud  (Use washers around the screw head as usual)...Now your bracket is ready to go.

7. If the stone is terribly uneven to the point it's making the bracket sit wonky, you can shim it a bit with the spacers provided with the bracket...If you want to go crazy with it, you can use a dremel to cut the spacers accordingly.
Post 7 made on Monday July 9, 2018 at 03:14
Ernie Gilman
Yes, That Ernie!
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On July 7, 2018 at 20:35, Hasbeen said...
3. Reach your hand in the hole and find the nearest stud.  Mark that location.

3a. If the hole is big enough to reach in on one side, it's large enough to reach in on the other side. There's zero reason to blindly assume that studs in a structure like this are actually on 16" centers. They could be closer together. Been there.

4. Mark where you'll drill the holes for your bracket into the studs.

4a. Drill holes in the bracket that match the actual stud locations if the mount doesn't already have holes that match the stud locations.

In fact, some articulating mounts are built such that you can't put a hole in their back plate anywhere near the center of the mount, so you might even want to bring two kinds of mounts or do steps 3 and 4 before buying the mount.


COOL! A new bit of hardware I had not seen before!

7. If the stone is terribly uneven to the point it's making the bracket sit wonky, you can shim it a bit with the spacers provided with the bracket...If you want to go crazy with it, you can use a dremel to cut the spacers accordingly.

Or you can go to the plumbing department and get spacers made of a flexible material. A solid spacer will try to distribute the pressure evenly over an area. If the area is not even, a flexible material spacer will "give" in the high pressure areas, spreading the pressure more than a hard spacer can.
A good answer is easier with a clear question giving the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw


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