I just needed a simple 2-in/1-out S-Video switcher. So I did what I normally do: I looked on ebaY.

That was probably a mistake, but I did find this beauty, and for a fantastic price: an Audioplex Luma VR-1!
[Link: cgi.ebay.com]

Here's a flyer I found for it (and the Luma VRS-1) by crawling Audioplex's now-defunct website:
[Link: web.archive.org]

My Luma VR-1 arrived yesterday, and while it works (…more or less…), I can't get it to switch between the A and B inputs, because when I bought it I didn't realize that it apparently needs either A.) an external IR receiver or emitter or something; or B.) an RS232 cable so that I can give it commands from my PC.

I found the manuals for the Luma VRS-1 and Luma VR-1, respectively, contained together in a PDF, and I uploaded it here:
[Link: procyon.com]

I'm frustrated, however, because I'm used to whatever remote-controlled device I buy just… having an IR port built into it — but this one apparently doesn't. Having to get an external IR thing to plug into a remote-controlled device is entirely new territory for me.

I don't know what sort of thing I need in order to get the Luma to accept commands from an IR remote. The manual says that the 3.5 mm mono audio cable it comes with is for plugging in an IR emitter, but how does having an emitter help it receive IR signals? Also, the only IR receivers I can find that use a 3.5 mm cable use a stereo cable — which I'm not sure would work on this device (due to the aforementioned cable type).

Additionally, according to both the manual AND the flyer I found, the Luma VR-1 (which does S-Video) doesn't have an RS232 port, but the Luma VRS-1 (which does Component video instead), does have an RS232 port.

However, the Luma VR-1 device that I purchased does have an RS232 port — and you can also see in the ebaY listing's photos that it has one — but the only manual that has RS232 commands is the manual for the Luma VRS-1, and I don't know if those commands would work with the Luma VR-1.

I'm a complete newbie to all of this, and I was hoping someone here might be able to help me out. Ordinarily, I'd just contact the company that made the device… but Audioplex filed for bankruptcy four years ago, so I can't get tech support from 'em. :(

Would any of you happen to have experience using Audioplex's Luma devices? Alternatively, would any of you have any suggestions on what I should do to get it to receive IR remote signals?

This situation has me stressed out and very frustrated; ANY help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you all in advance! :)

Briefly, you will need several pieces from any number of manufacturers, including xantech, russound, calrad, vanco, etc.

You will need an IR target, a connecting block, a power supply, and the afore mentioned mono to mono cord to get an ir signal into the audioplex.

Good luck!

I probably have all that old stuff in the shed....

I'm guessing that the IR target is what I point the remote at, but what exactly is a "connecting block"? :)

Again: I'm a complete newbie to all of this, so I apologize if I come across as clueless. ('Cause sadly, I currently am rather clueless about this stuff.)

A connecting block is a device with terminals for the ir target, 3.5 mm jacks for emitters, and a coaxial power supply jack. It is a way to easily connect all the disparate parts needed for an IR system.

Good luck!

Before you go a lot further, does your AudioPlex device have it's own remote control?

Note I do not have any experience with the brand, and do not have any work arounds if you do not have the remote control.

This is a moment to say "let's back up a step."

I think this product is a bad choice because it does not now allow you to just plug it in, point a remote at it, and choose an S-Video input. This is just going to get harder and harder.

You should go back to looking for a remotely controlled S-Video switcher. You now know more questions to ask the seller before buying. Heck, if the person you bought that switch from is reputable, they might admit that they described it as working or complete and take it back. I mean, it is not working because it is far from complete.

Instead of suggesting some time-consuming things to get you to your new goal (which is making this thing work), I'm going to suggest that you go back to your original goal (which is getting an S-Video switcher).

I mean, if you want something that will actually be simpler, I have at least two old Yamaha AV Receivers that have S-Video inputs (but no HDMI), so therefore can be used for S-Video switching. These, as a matter of fact, will do EXACTLY what you want done. You might say they aren't appropriate, but they're more appropriate than a technological wild goose chase.

Look for an S-Video switcher. Failing that, look for an A/V processor or receiver with few features. All such components have input switchers built into them. But don't go any further down this rabbit hole.

[Link: amazon.com]

$21. Get it in 2 days. And it looks like a UFO landed on your TV. SWEEEET



edit:
HA! Looked at it again, it only has 1 s-video in. What a turd.

I get the feeling that none of you looked at the manual, or at least all of the photos in the ebaY auction. xD Thank you all for your replies, though! :) I appreciate it.


Ah, I see. :) That… sounds a lot more complicated than what I'm used to using. I think I can see how it would go together, though.


As far as I can tell: no, it does not come with a remote control. There's not even a port/window on the device that it looks like I could point an IR remote at.

The manual states that "…6 individual Luma's [sic] may be controlled via the 6 source selector button functions on ProScan/RCA remotes." So I'm guessing that I could technically use my RCA-brand Universal Remote with it — if I had some way of getting the IR signal into the device…


Indeed. Unfortunately, I didn't do the research on this device (or its company); I'd thought that the rocker switch on the front of it was what I used for flipping between the inputs. (I was under the impression that it was a "discreet toggle switch", not that it was a switch for flipping between "Discreet Mode" and "Toggle Mode".)

If I'd known that it needed extra devices attached to it to use it, I most definitely would have passed on it.

I was also mistakenly under the impression that the knob on the switcher was actually a volume knob — which would've been nice for my uses — rather than a device-numbering conflict-resolution switch. :|

But hey: I learn best by making mistakes, so I'll just consider this a "learning mistake". I've certainly learned a lot from it, after all! :D


Admittedly, while they didn't send it in its original box, they did send it in/with all of the original packaging and padding that was probably in its original box, and they did have a photo of its box in the ebaY listing; they listed it as "Brand New", mentioning that it was from the factory.

As far as I can tell from reading the Installation Manual, which lists exactly what it comes with, it's implied that you have to supply the remote yourself — as well as the IR signalling devices.


I actually got some HDMI-to-Analog converter boxes so I can use my few HDMI devices on my CRT TV. XD A lack of HDMI doesn't bother me much.


I would ask you how much you wanted for one of 'em — but I've actually already gone ahead and bought an Extron MPS 112. ^^' It's got more inputs than I need (twice as many S-Video as I need, and it's also got VGA and those fancy RGB connectors used in professional video monitors and such), but at least I know that I can plug things into it, have it route that video to a display, and switch between the inputs with the buttons that are on the device — no external remotes needed!


Yeah. I'm just gonna return this device to the seller.

It's very well-made (it's even made in the U.S.A.!), but… it's just far, far more complicated than what I want/need.

Sure, it was only 28 dollars, and I'll be losing about 11 dollars of that on shipping it back — but it doesn't matter how much it cost if, in the end, the device is useless. ¯\(º_O)/¯


Yeah, I've seen a LOT of those kinds of devices. XD Most of them lack an AC adapter or other power cable, which makes them cheap… but I bought a Dynex 4-in/2-out switcher (it has Composite on all In/Out, and S-Video on both Outs and 2 of the Ins) — which is actually the device I'd thought that I was replacing with this Audioplex Luma switcher —, and it has awful "ghosting" artefacts in the S-Video image, no matter the input/output ports being used. :x Hence why I want to replace it.

Composite looks just fine — at least, as fine as Composite Video can look — but the ghosting effects on the S-Video was just ghastly. :(

tl;dr: thank you all for your replies; I do very much appreciate the help and the information — but I'm sending this back. Alas, it has turned out to be much too "high-end" for my needs.

Kizul, I do this for a living. You're asking for my help. Asking me to look at the manual for you has made me less motivated to help you.

Signing off this thread,

Fred

Kizul,
What does XD (or xD at the beginning of a sentence, apparently) mean?

What's that about ghosting on S Video? If you have a transmission line (which is way more than just a piece of wire; it's a means of sending a signal of a certain source impedance to a load of the same load impedance, and deviations from exactly that cause such things as ghosting) that has ghosting, you probably have an improper load on it, for instance a high impedance input when a 75 ohm input is needed. But you also need a cable long enough that the power that gets reflected back from the load has sufficient delay due to wire length that you can perceive the ghosting. I haven't gone looking for your description of signal wire lengths; I'm just pointing out that offhand, it doesn't seem like ghosting would be possible with your setup.

Fred is right to step out. Let me state what I get from his message: Kizul, I do this for a living. I'm offering you help for free and you want ME to read the manual. YOU read the manual and educate yourself.

By the way, I wouldn't sell you one of my Yamaha receivers unless you were near enough to pick it up. I'm not going to pack it to ship. Your profile limits how much free help we can give you because U. S. A. is not a good enough definition of where you are. It kinda says you don't want us to know where you are. That's fine unless you're asking for help, in which case your location can matter.