I'm using some existing speaker cables that were run out to a deck. When the insulation is stripped there is oxodization on the cables that I would like to remove. It's not realistic to sand each strand. Does anyone have a trick? Dip the end in Miriatic Acid or something?

The wires will be used either in a speaker with a gold spring loaded post connector or a phoenix plug. In the past I've treated the stripped ends with dielectric grease or NOALOX but I'm curious what others are doing.

Thanks.

Craig

I don't think I have the answer you are looking for, but I have flattened out the strands and lightly scraped them with my knife blade to expose more copper.

If the wire wasn't treated when it was installed, I cut back until I can get to some copper that isn't completely corroded (black). If I get to the point where I have cut back as far as I can, I try to scrape it to see if there is any good copper left at that point.
If so, I spray it with DeoxIT D5 and let it set for a minute, wipe it down, then use some dielectric grease on the new connection.
If not, then.... I see how hard it is to replace the wire run.

Lookup cleaning copper bottom kitchen cookware. I haven't actually tried any of these methods, I'm just exploring ... .

The disadvantage of any of these chemical schemes is that some of the chemical will wick up the wire and likely cause its own issues over time.

I wouldn't use an acid- it will travel up the strands via capillary action and you won't be able to stop it from dissolving the copper.

If the wire has turned black, it's because the insulation was PVC and that creates Copper Chloride. Best to tin the end of a fresh piece or use pre-tinned wire, insert it in the terminals with dielectric grease and cut the original wire back until you have clean copper, then put some dielectric grease into Heat N Seal butt splices, making sure that none of the grease touches the plastic. Once they have been crimped, heat the terminals to allow the sealant to expand and shrink the tube.

I buy these terminals from Parts Express, but Markertek, Del City and other places sell them. I use them on the power wires for cameras and have never had one fail or allow the wire to turn green, black, etc.

My experience has been that with completely blackened copper, I’ve stripped back as far as I can and it is black everywhere. No good copper available.

I've seen this too, and to some extent on speaker wire inside. This depends on the wire insulation.

I untwisted the ends and there was bright copper inside. I picked up some of the DeoxIT D5 and sprayed that on it as well. The ends will be used in an out door speaker that has a sprung post so I'll put some di-electric grease on there.

Thanks for the tips. I'm going to look into the Heat n Seal butt splices. Up to now for outdoor splices I have soldered, covered in silicon, then slid a heat shrink tube over top and shrunk it while the silicon was wet. Haven't had a single one fail ever but those butt splices sound much easier.

I now have some thoughts on weather proof connections but I'll start a new thread as it's off topic here.

Thanks again for your input.

Craig

For me its either "rotted" back a couple inches where you can trim to or the entire conductor is rotted and there isn't anything you can do about it.

Dielectric foam/ grease for coax fittings it came in little tubes. That and a cleaning with a wire toothbrush.

Look for self-sealing heat shrink tubing, while you're at it. I have tended to use heat shrink tubing of similar color to the insulation, so it's not an obvious splice, but a friend who used to design and build X-Ray scanners for the food industry said he went to clear tubing a long time ago because it allows him to see the splice. If it has a problem, it's easier to look and do nothing than removing something that's opaque and finding that it was OK, then having to find a way to re-seal it or completely re-do the splice.

As I wrote, I buy the butt splices from Parts Express and they have three sizes. Less expensive than most suppliers.

Oy. I just searched for self-sealing heat shrink tubing- more than 2.1 million links.

[Link: google.com]

Wire tooth brush and clear heat shrink. Both things I wish was using yesterday.

Thanks again for the input.