I got a text from a client that one of his TV's is getting a "HDCP" issue. He sent me the link (go.roku.com/hdcp). I checked and it goes into HDMI 2.2 inputs, use quality HDMI cables,etc.......
It's been working for 4-5 months since initial installation. I don't know what input it's on but it's going directly to the TV, no avr. I'm guessing the HDMI cable is 1m or 1.5. We have the Roku Premier attached with velcro right on the back of the TV.
So, my question is what are the optimum settings for the Roku Premier and Sony 930E?
I did find some people saying to go into the Roku's secret menu and turn the chroma to 4:2:0 from 4:2:2, or others say turn off HDR (but the TV has the ability?)

HDCP shouldn't have anything to do with the chroma... 4:2:0 etc is more of a EDID issue. HDCP is a copy protection thing.
I know that you say you've used quality HDMI cables, but what are they and have you swapped out for another brand?

We see this pretty regularly with a lot of our Roku installs (with Sony and Samsung TVs going through Yamaha receivers/Binary cabling). In most cases, it pops up for just a second or two and then goes away. Is the message staying on screen for an extended time? I assume the Roku unit has been power-cycled?

It's connected directly to the Sony HDMI input, no AVR
Not sure, but the client said he can't watch Netflix or Amazon. I have no idea what can or can't be watched.
I'm headed to the site now, so no the Roku hasn't been power cycled.

Try another cable.

I had one working fine into a Sony, then a couple weeks later would blank out once I got past menus and streaming began.

In my case, it was a noncompliant HDMI switch.

I would not be surprised if a Roku update caused the issues.

Pop a surge protector with a big orange button in there (we use Snap). Any time a client has an issue, tell them to push the big, orange button, wait 30 seconds and then to push it again. Ensure that EVERYTHING plugs into the surge protector.

This sounds simple but since we made this a standard on every job, it has saved us a ridiculous number of truck rolls.

Check your firmware on both.
Been there, fixed that due to a similar Roku YouTube issue.
Appeared when the video finished and resolution was changing during return to menu.

Went to the site today. The Roku menu worked up until anything tried to play. Still got audio but purple screen and HDCP compliant problem.
Rebooted the Roku and all was well.........when in doubt, reboot!!!
I still replaced the HDMI cable, even though the current one was 4K UHD.
Funny though when jumping around between Netflix, Amazon, You Tube I saw a brief (one second) HDCP issue grey banner on a one 4K You Tube video but couldn't make it happen again??
One BIG question, on the Roku Premier+. What is the best resolution to leave it on in the display settings? I ended up leaving it on auto, even though from experience auto is not usually the best........any opinions??
Thanks for all of the input with this issue. It gave me a good idea what to expect when I arrived. This is a big help as an installer. This forum is great for us as clients don't know the weird shit we end up having to deal with. Arriving with a little knowledge can greatly reduce the time hunting for things we may think are wrong, which sometimes leads us up the wrong path!!

Oh no! Just as I was about to jump ship from Apple TV to Roku for exactly this reason with Apple. Can someone make a reliable media streaming device without needing constant reboots, password reauthorization, Edid issues, etc?

Ill $300-400 a unit for someone to make a pro grade version. They are becoming too crucial to our systems to rely on such garbage especially since we don't make a dime on them.

Try working for a company that is CONVINCED that you did something wrong(even though it was working fine when you were done) and puts the blame on you when this happens!

I've had enough.
Time for a career change?

We are seeing a lot of these issues (with all displays) especially when going to 4K streaming content, our HDM-JRPlus is the usual answer (cleans up EDID comms). However on some jobs the HDM-AIO (connected to a control system) is the needed answer, along with EDID repair you can force a Hot Plug reset

And Brent, you have all of this information compiled in a document, so we know under which conditions to use which magic device??

Tom:

I have not done that paper yet, but will work on it tomorrow.

I think Tom has being sarcastic. You have been working on that paper for a few years now :)

Can't retire yet Brent.

i think that it is a bible now.
That I can not print due to fear of Lawsuits.