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How are you doing TV rough-in
This thread has 15 replies. Displaying all posts.
Post 1 made on Wednesday February 14, 2018 at 10:51
crosen
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I’m curious how most of you do TV rough ins.

Unless I’m using a special mount, I typically run low voltage to a single gang just below and to the left of TV center and have power run just below and to the right of TV center.

The standard mount I use has a single horizontal bar that winds up above TV center, and keeping LV and power close to center means the vertical mounting arms can straddle them.
If it's not simple, it's not sufficiently advanced.
Post 2 made on Wednesday February 14, 2018 at 10:58
burtont62
Active Member
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I use these.

[Link: aifittings.com]
Post 3 made on Wednesday February 14, 2018 at 12:20
Ernie Gilman
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No matter what you HAVE the mount before you do the rough-in so that you'll be 100% sure that you'll HAVE that mount when it comes time to hang the TV.
A good answer is easier with a clear question giving the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw
Post 4 made on Wednesday February 14, 2018 at 16:56
cma
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No matter how much time I spend trying to lay things out at rough in I somehow always seem to end up with a horizontal or a vertical mount piece in the way of the power or something..
Post 5 made on Wednesday February 14, 2018 at 16:58
TonyCove
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22
i like to use the Chief PAC525 and 526 units.
[Link: chiefmfg.com]
[Link: chiefmfg.com]

they work great to house items like baluns, extenders etc... Plus when paired with the Samsung QLED flat screens they are AWESOME. The TVs are soo thin because they removed all the video inputs connections (the way the old pioneer elites used to") and the processor fits right inside the box, when paired with the "No Gap" wall mount, its like a hanging piece of art. Its pretty darn nice.
Post 6 made on Wednesday February 14, 2018 at 19:33
Grasshopper
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We've typically just run our wire (structure, typically a single coax with 3 cat5e) to a single gang right next to the electrician's power. It's usually just on the opposite side of the stud that the electrician is running power to. We don't worry about the mount until later because a lot can change over the course of the building of the house, including both the technology available and the whims of the homeowner. We've not had a problem finding a suitable mount for the tv that the client ends up going with. If we ordered the tv immediately, they could easily change their mind and we'd wind up sitting on it and possibly not being able to use it or sell it.
Everyone should learn something new every day.
Post 7 made on Wednesday February 14, 2018 at 19:36
internetraver
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On February 14, 2018 at 19:33, Grasshopper said...
If we ordered the tv immediately, they could easily change their mind and we'd wind up sitting on it and possibly not being able to use it or sell it.

That's why you have a contract.

 
Post 8 made on Wednesday February 14, 2018 at 19:51
edizzle
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On February 14, 2018 at 19:33, Grasshopper said...
We've typically just run our wire (structure, typically a single coax with 3 cat5e) to a single gang right next to the electrician's power. It's usually just on the opposite side of the stud that the electrician is running power to. We don't worry about the mount until later because a lot can change over the course of the building of the house, including both the technology available and the whims of the homeowner. We've not had a problem finding a suitable mount for the tv that the client ends up going with. If we ordered the tv immediately, they could easily change their mind and we'd wind up sitting on it and possibly not being able to use it or sell it.

you would ALWAYS want to nail up the LV box on the opposite STUD in the same cavity!!!!!!! not the opposite side of the stud. this allows a flush enclosure style box like the snap 8x14, chief PAC, AI, etc to be cut in and have your LV and power in the same enclosure. also we NEVER nail any box on other side of a single stud PERIOD. it looks like shit that close together. my guys have to nail up at least one block to space it out.
I love supporting product that supports me!
OP | Post 9 made on Wednesday February 14, 2018 at 20:07
crosen
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On February 14, 2018 at 19:51, edizzle said...
you would ALWAYS want to nail up the LV box on the opposite STUD in the same cavity!!!!!!! not the opposite side of the stud. this allows a flush enclosure style box like the snap 8x14, chief PAC, AI, etc to be cut in and have your LV and power in the same enclosure. also we NEVER nail any box on other side of a single stud PERIOD. it looks like shit that close together. my guys have to nail up at least one block to space it out.

It sounds like you’re installing an enclosure during trim. Why not during rough-in?
If it's not simple, it's not sufficiently advanced.
Post 10 made on Wednesday February 14, 2018 at 20:26
highfigh
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I like the Arlington dual voltage boxes, when the electrician isn’t effing things up. Still tired of seeing inputs that require the cables to insert straight into the back.
My mechanic told me, "I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder."
Post 11 made on Wednesday February 14, 2018 at 20:33
Grasshopper
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On February 14, 2018 at 19:51, edizzle said...
you would ALWAYS want to nail up the LV box on the opposite STUD in the same cavity!!!!!!! not the opposite side of the stud. this allows a flush enclosure style box like the snap 8x14, chief PAC, AI, etc to be cut in and have your LV and power in the same enclosure. also we NEVER nail any box on other side of a single stud PERIOD. it looks like shit that close together. my guys have to nail up at least one block to space it out.

If you could share a picture of such a setup that'd be great. I'm sure you make a great point, but it's just not something I've encountered...I don't think we've used the same style "enclosure." If it's a better way to do it, I'd love to see it because it could make our work better. As far as looking like...wait, cuss words are allowed on here now? Well anyway, if it's hidden behind a tv...I'm not excusing sloppy work in any way, but I don't get how two single gang boxes next to each other, symmetrically, looks bad. So far as I know, we've never had a complaint about such a thing from a client. I have seen photos of other people's work on here and said to myself "wow, that looks really good, better than things we've done." The enclosure behind a tv, to be cut in, thing is honestly foreign to me. A visual representation might make more sense to me. I do appreciate your input! Lord knows I could learn a lot from a lot of people!

J
Everyone should learn something new every day.
Post 12 made on Wednesday February 14, 2018 at 22:34
Archibald "Harry" Tuttle
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On February 14, 2018 at 19:51, edizzle said...
you would ALWAYS want to nail up the LV box on the opposite STUD in the same cavity!!!!!!! not the opposite side of the stud. this allows a flush enclosure style box like the snap 8x14, chief PAC, AI, etc to be cut in and have your LV and power in the same enclosure. also we NEVER nail any box on other side of a single stud PERIOD. it looks like shit that close together. my guys have to nail up at least one block to space it out.

If you're using an enclosure then why are you even nailing up a LV box at all? Sounds like a bunch of extra dirty-work if you cutting in the enclosure at trim.

You should be mounting the enclosure at rough-in and put the LV and power there at that time. We use the PAC526.
I came into this game for the action, the excitement. Go anywhere, travel light, get in, get out, wherever there's AV trouble, a man alone.
Post 13 made on Wednesday February 14, 2018 at 22:55
Fins
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The problem with some of the enclosures is they are big. Too big for some TVs to hide. I recently used one of the midlite power kits, which has a similar box as the Arlington above. We may start using one of those two. But I gave up trying to lock down final decisions during rough-in.

I now figure out the approximate top of where the TV will be, assuming the TV will be a 65” in a main viewing room, 55” in the master, and something around a 50” in other bedrooms. Main viewing rooms I bring the TVs down as low as possible, in a perfect world center of the screen would be 40”, but if I can get the bottom that low I’ll take it. Bedrooms go high. Tops of the TV maybe in line with doors and windows. People watch these from laying positions. Then I come down about 3” from that point, and bam, that’s the top of the box. Most of the time we use a low voltage add on box and snap it on the side of the electrician’s outlet. This setup keeps the boxes so that if someone decides they don’t want a tv in a room, art work can easily cover the outlet. And if they do put a TV in, pretty much any mount will work. And, if you have a problem after the TV is up, you can easily access the cords and plugs without taking the TV down.

The hardest part is figuring out, it ain’t rocket science and works best if you leave some room for variation between planning and installing.
Civil War reenactment is LARPing for people with no imagination.

Post 14 made on Wednesday February 14, 2018 at 23:59
PSS
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We rarely use boxes during prewires for tvs. We typically run our lv wires (cat6, cat5e,etc,) and a Carlon conduit inside the wall. The Carlon usually high or low. This allows getting a fish tape up or down to where we end up cutting in a retro lv ring.
We have the sparky run a whip inside the wall with plenty of slack. We also will cut in a retro electrical box for power during mounting.
This takes time but allows us to mount the tv wherever its wanted and not have to modify the back plate or end up cutting in a retro ring because the wires are in the wrong spot
Post 15 made on Thursday February 15, 2018 at 00:08
BrettLee3232
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If I’m wiring a custom & im not putting in wall bracket then I eaither do 5’ or 6’ off the ground. Same stud bay as power & I make sure there is no blocks below. I usually use a 2 gang low volt ring behind TV & a single gang down low. That way I or home owner or future AV tech can easily fish wires down for local BluRay, Xbox etc. I usually use one of $naps surge protected plugs so I don’t use combo boxes or add on low volt rings.

As far as wire goes I run coax & 2 cat5s minimum.
Knowing that Gold went up a few K makes me think "well now I have to do a better job on selling more equipment".

-Me... Jan. 2014
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