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Topic:
Ceiling Tile Cover Plate for Peerless Projector Column
This thread has 8 replies. Displaying all posts.
Post 1 made on Monday January 29, 2018 at 17:57
PatMac
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I don't install many projectors. However, I always like to dress up the hole in the ceiling tile as much as possible. I will soon be installing a Peerless 6" extension (AEC006009-W) for a PRG-UNV mount. Maybe I'll get lucky and drill a 3" hole in the perfect spot the first time. (yeah right) OR....maybe I'm trying too hard and their is a better way to finish the ceiling tile. Any ideas??? Unique cover plates available?
Post 2 made on Monday January 29, 2018 at 18:26
chicagoinstaller
Advanced Member
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If you had a 2" Peerless makes something, but with 3" im not sure that its around.

Google "escutcheon trim ring" you might be able to adapt something for your needs.
If you can't be good, be good at it.
Post 3 made on Tuesday January 30, 2018 at 08:43
lippavisual
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Visit your local hardware stores plumbing section. 1.5” NPT flange cover. Much cheaper there than buying from Peerless/Chief, etc.

Plastic or metal versions. Both can be painted for whatever color required.

Also, 3” hole is far too big, 2” is fine. You gotta start specing projectors with lens shift for bad placements.
Post 4 made on Tuesday January 30, 2018 at 09:09
chicagoinstaller
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AEC006009-W is 3" pipe, that's why he wants a 3 inch hole.

3 x 8.75 x 3"
If you can't be good, be good at it.
Post 5 made on Tuesday January 30, 2018 at 11:58
Rob Grabon
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Used a SnapAV double gang grommet place, easily for 2", 3" might be tight.
Technology is cheap, Time is expensive.
Post 6 made on Tuesday January 30, 2018 at 13:20
lippavisual
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I’ve never had to use a 3” pipe, that’s crazy!! 1.5” NPT is the norm. I have ceiling arrays with 6 TVs (3 on 1 side, 3 on the other, btb) all being held by a single 1.5” pipe.
Post 7 made on Tuesday January 30, 2018 at 23:27
edizzle
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On January 30, 2018 at 09:09, chicagoinstaller said...
AEC006009-W is 3" pipe, that's why he wants a 3 inch hole.

3 x 8.75 x 3"

thats the shipping dimensions. ive never seen any A/V mounting gear use anything other than 1.5"
I love supporting product that supports me!
OP | Post 8 made on Wednesday January 31, 2018 at 09:12
PatMac
Regular Member
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I have the pipe. I measured it. The hole must be 3". Thanks for all the input! At this point, I will attempt a 3" hole by using a hole saw. I just hope it doesn't tear up the ceiling tile surface.
Post 9 made on Wednesday January 31, 2018 at 14:07
Other
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That is a 1.5" IPT pipe at both ends. The middle of it is wider because it is length adjustable; two pipes that nest inside each other. The part that threads into the PRG-UNV and the part that threads into the tile bridge/ceiling plate is standard 1.5" IPT pipe.

I'm going to assume based on the reference to ceiling tile that you are going in a 2x2 or 2x4 drop ceiling with a grid?

I'm also going to assume that based on the weight capacity of the mount you mentioned that the projector you are installing is under 50 lbs?

If so, why not just use a tile bridge drop ceiling mounting kit? It would be faster and easier than like a unistrut substructure or piping directly to deck (the only way that wider section of pipe wouldn't be below the ceiling).

As an added bonus most of the kits include an escutcheon ring, which is indeed the trade name for the trim part you referenced, in the correct size if the parts are used as intended.

I don't know Peerless as well, but with like a Chief CMS-440 (which you could use with the rest of your peerless parts, 1.5" IPT is a standard), they even include a little tool to help neatly cut the exact right size hole in the tile for the included escutcheon ring, which coincidentally is also the correct size for a 1.5" IPT pipe to pass-through and made to neatly cut ceiling tile.

That also allows you to locate the projector without the ceiling tile, mark out where the bridge should sit in the grid, put the tile back and use the hole in the bridge as a template to get the hole in the right spot if it has to be exact and/or just move the bridge a little if your hole is off a little. Leave the cables loose until everything is in place, then pull tight to pull the weight off the grid. No guessing where the hole needs to be (otherwise use a plumb bob).

Further, you probably don't need 6-9" of adjustability at that point, more like a 3" or 6" fixed pipe, which eliminates that issue with the bump in the middle and looks nicer anyway.

Why not just buy the right parts to do it correctly instead of trying to reinvent the wheel?

Last edited by Other on January 31, 2018 14:15.


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