Due to an unknown factor, it doesn't look like the UBNT Bullet will work for my previous network design problem. So to get Internet up and running immediately, I stuck a Buffalo router that I had at home in this

[Link: menards.com]

How long do you think it will last. Also, the unforeseen factor was an arlo camera system. It has a network adapter that must be connected to the router by wire. It's in a second enclosure, with the UPS that powers the telco fiber D-Marc.

I know this sounds crazy...

Run a second conduit to the box and attach a high volume fan to the end. Have the fan suck out of the conduit, so that the fresh air will come from where the other pipe is. And not heat up the wires.

You may have to design a shrod of sorts for the fan onto the conduit to get maximum use out of the fan.

I am assuming that you'll be installing this box and router either outside. Or an area that is prone to moisture, water.

KOT

Well, I mounted a ruckus r300 in one of those (albeit smaller) on the underside of a building on the beach in the Florida panhandle. Hot (in the shade hot, not like being in the sun hot), humid, salty air and no reports of it failing after 2 years. Of course, it is protected from above and the sides from rain, but maybe that'll help give you an idea of how long a piece of equipment could last in one of those so long as it is properly sealed.

Don't count on any significant flow in this configuration. Recall that clothes dryers specify a maximum duct length (of a given size) because the restriction will effectively create a pressure head that the dryer's blower can't counteract and there will not be enough lint flow. Air conditioning designers fight the same physics. If the ducts are too small or too long, there will not be enough flow to deliver the required quantity of cool air or the air will come out of the duct with such a low velocity that the cool air will not reach the other side of the room.

It's already hooked up. Here's a pic of the setup. The router is in the left box, the Arlo bridge is in the right one

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Here's a pic of the whole place for a better understanding of what I'm trying to accomplish

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My bet is this will be one of those stupid situations where this thing will last for years, tricking you into a sense of false security; thinking they are "bulletproof". You will then install one into a nice clean climate controlled room...and it will fail 31 days later.

Here's the other angle


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I've stuck Sonos and networking gear in those same Cantex PVC boxes and never had an issue, but did some inexpensive mods for airflow.

I drill holes in the bottom and then attach window screen over the holes with silicone.

On the side I cut a 1-gang size hole near the top and cover it with a Datacomm recessed low voltage plate with the hood on the outside and facing down to keep water out.

Another little piece of window screen between the Datacomm plate and PVC box keeps the bugs out.

Here's a photo so you can see what I'm talking about.  This Connect Amp has been running in that box for over 7 years now:

Good ideas to help with airflow. It will probably be a couple weeks before I get to go back. I'll take some screen and a data scoop, and check the heat in the box.

Fins,

In post 5 at the right support post it looks like there are a couple of open vertical conduits. Are you OK with these filling with water?

The conduit on the far left side is for coax for a sat dish that no longer exists. The conduit really was just for down the post to protect the wire. It doesn't run underground. The wire was, assumably, direct burial. Either way, it's not used any more. The conduit on the right side, with the yellow cat 6 running into it only goes about 6" into the ground. Today I ran a temp run for a phone hook up, and the conduit is just to keep the guys that mow the property from cutting the wire. I barely got the wire below the sod. But before I did this, the phone line ran from the D-Marc to the #2 RV just on the ground, when someone was there. I've got a roll of direct burial cat in the shop and will rerun the wire in a couple weeks when I get back on site.

Wow... I know I can't see the whole thing. But do any if those pipes have the sliding pipe installed? If not, that thing is going to look awful after a few years of ground movement.

I love SB Smarthomes' idea. Also a little roof to protect it from the direct sunlight. Perhaps the owner could hire a carpenter to make a visually pleasing roof, instead of one that is over the meter.

Buzz, you're right and that's something I didn't account for obviously. What's odd is that I know the drier vent shall be 20' or less. Each 90* bend removes 5' from that figure. Go figure.

KOT

You can think of the dryer tube as being a "wire" with a certain linear "resistance" per foot. A bend would be a "connection". Each connection inserts a certain amount of resistance. This ducting resistance is due to air turbulence and a bend creates a lot of turbulence.

Similar to the starting circuit in a car, if the wires and connections insert too much resistance, you'll never be able to draw enough current to start the car - unless you increase the battery voltage.

A blower can work into a certain back pressure ("battery voltage"). Similar to an electric circuit, as the voltage drops due to the connections approach the battery voltage, there will not be much current flow (air movement).

That wall and the conduits have been in place probably 20 years. The phone and Cantex boxes have been installed about 10 years. I don't think ground moving is a problem