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Need A means of lengthening short power outages.
This thread has 23 replies. Displaying posts 1 through 15.
Post 1 made on Tuesday June 6, 2017 at 02:29
Ernie Gilman
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My son works in IT at a local college. I got this from him a few minutes ago:

We need a power strip which, when it detects a tiny power outage,​ will fully cut the power for a minute or so.

LADWP (Los Angeles Department of Water and Power) sucks. We have small power outages weekly, usually less than a second, but it's enough to reboot our 150 network devices, which reboots our 550 APs. 99.9% of the time the device comes back up but at that device count we usually have a few things that don't.

We could put UPSs in every closet but that's just something else to buy, monitor, and replace every 2 to 3 years. We don't have the budget or the time. Oh, and 30 of our switches aren't in AC controlled rooms, so a UPS will last 6 months.

The fix in 99% of the cases where a device doesn't come back up after a power outage is another outage. Just cycle it again. The theory is that the switch doesn't like a quarter second outage but is okay with a 5 second one. How can we turn tiny outages that mess with power supplies into nice graceful ones?

Thanks for any ideas you might have.
A good answer is easier with a clear question giving the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw
Post 2 made on Tuesday June 6, 2017 at 05:17
King of typos
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How about those "smart" power strips? Plug a device into the master that draws enough of a load for the strip to sense. Then the switch into the slave.

When the power goes out, both lose power. But when it comes back, the slave shall remain out longer than the master. As it needs to sense the master having enough of a load.

Since he has over a hundred locations. He may need to purchase 10 different manufacturers/models for testing. Keep a log to see which one suits their needs.

Remember, these power strips needs to be programmed for the master to determine the load tolerances.

KOT
Post 3 made on Tuesday June 6, 2017 at 06:00
thecapnredfish
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How about replacing power packs with something other than the cheap ones most devices come with. The older in line style size of a 2 smart phones seem to hold enough juice to get past a 1 second power outage. Just an idea.
Post 4 made on Tuesday June 6, 2017 at 06:30
King of typos
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Oh, or design a capacitor inline with the wall wart and device. Wired in parallel of course. Have a large enough capacity for the amperage draw of the devices to maintain the 1 to 2 second power outage.

KOT
Post 5 made on Tuesday June 6, 2017 at 07:45
gerard143
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Ya a power supply with a decent sized cap or an add in cap is the way to go. But I'm having a hard time finding a simple plug in inline one. I did come across capacitor trip devices that can trip breakers on an outage but that isn't an ideal solution either.

Last edited by gerard143 on June 6, 2017 07:59.
Post 6 made on Tuesday June 6, 2017 at 08:21
Mario
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Wattbox.
Have it ping the device that's hanging up.
When device fails to ping, automated script can reboot that (and other) outlet(s) with whatever delay you specify.
Post 7 made on Tuesday June 6, 2017 at 09:07
lippavisual
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Wattbox like Mario suggests above or a UPS. Do it right. If he works in IT, then they should provide/purchase what is necessary to keep IT working.
Post 8 made on Tuesday June 6, 2017 at 09:36
highfigh
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The cost of the wages paid for rebooting the devices outweighs the cost of the equipment needed to perform this function. That should be the argument for the requisition request.

Car audio systems often use a large 'stiffening' capacitor when the power amps draw current that's in excess of what the charging system can provide. However, it's only for short-term fluctuations in the voltage, so a battery is better. These power supplies don't use a lot of current, so a large cap might help, but someone needs to find out what size of cap is needed, it needs to be in some kind of enclosure, needs an input and output connection and it needs to be able to justify its existence by doing its job reliably and for a long time.

They need to pick their poison- there's no easy solution to this and it WILL require some hardware. Doesn't sound like they're using POE for everything- that would simplify the solution because they wouldn't need as many devices for delaying turn-on.
My mechanic told me, "I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder."
Post 9 made on Tuesday June 6, 2017 at 09:39
highfigh
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On June 6, 2017 at 09:07, lippavisual said...
Wattbox like Mario suggests above or a UPS. Do it right. If he works in IT, then they should provide/purchase what is necessary to keep IT working.

OTOH, it IS California.
My mechanic told me, "I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder."
OP | Post 10 made on Tuesday June 6, 2017 at 11:22
Ernie Gilman
Yes, That Ernie!
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An IT guy we've just started working with responded with this:

Meet: The Refrigerator Protector

[Link: amazon.com]

Protects from high or low voltage and on a voltage disconnect it has a 3 minute safety cycle.

I love it when the need for something delicate and high-tech is met by a hammer made to smash a crude problem in another field!

What I see happening now is disbelief that anything at this price can do what's needed, and of course a few of these need to be tested.
A good answer is easier with a clear question giving the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw
Post 11 made on Tuesday June 6, 2017 at 12:02
rmalbers
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Interesting device, it says overvoltage 3 minute disconnect, I'm not sure if under voltage you get a timed disconnect. It definitely would need to be tested to see if it handles the problem.
OP | Post 12 made on Tuesday June 6, 2017 at 12:08
Ernie Gilman
Yes, That Ernie!
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Hmmm. Also there's the question of whether the power company's power has overvoltages which are now not triggering reboots. It would be most unfortunate if the interruption problem were solved by this, only to introduce more interruptions due to overvoltage. I mean, it's likely that the power supplies on campus are 100 - 240 VAC type supplies.
A good answer is easier with a clear question giving the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw
Post 13 made on Tuesday June 6, 2017 at 12:12
tomciara
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My Fluke DMM will log minimum and maximum AC voltage. A little testing before applying a fix might be advisable.
There is no truth anymore. Only assertions. The internet world has no interest in truth, only vindication for preconceived assumptions.
Post 14 made on Tuesday June 6, 2017 at 12:26
gerard143
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On June 6, 2017 at 11:22, Ernie Gilman said...
An IT guy we've just started working with responded with this:

I love it when the need for something delicate and high-tech is met by a hammer made to smash a crude problem in another field!

What I see happening now is disbelief that anything at this price can do what's needed, and of course a few of these need to be tested.

Well isn't that slick.
OP | Post 15 made on Tuesday June 6, 2017 at 13:46
Ernie Gilman
Yes, That Ernie!
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Thanks for the suggestions about adding capacitors, etc. I might do that in my home system but that's completely taboo in any commercial anything. Warranties are voided, performance can be affected.

For instance, when you thought about adding a capacitor to the DC so the DC will stay high longer after a power loss, what did you engineer into the system so that the power supply is safe when power comes on and the large capacitor must be charged? Capacitors look like shorts when discharged, and the better and beefier the capacitor, the longer it would stress the supply when powering on. That is, the better this would work to hold the DC up after a power loss, the more dangerous it would be to the power supply. Unless you add a transistor, some resistors, etc...

And at that point, is the supply operating within the parameters specified by its UL rating?

In a system such as this, you don't crack open ANYTHING. You don't add a capacitor by making a male to female cable with a capacitor across it. You use the equipment out of the box, with any adjustments being only those described in the manual.
A good answer is easier with a clear question giving the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw
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