Your Universal Remote Control Center
RemoteCentral.com
Custom Installers' Lounge Forum - View Post
Previous section Next section Up level
Up level
The following page was printed from RemoteCentral.com:

Login:
Pass:
 
 

Topic:
Racks and cable ladder
This thread has 6 replies. Displaying all posts.
Post 1 made on Wednesday May 10, 2017 at 14:39
imt
Long Time Member
Joined:
Posts:
June 2007
466
On a current project I am contemplating using either a BGR rack on casters or possibly making it fixed. The wire would come out high on the wall, so if on casters I can just bring the wire down and back up. The basement floor has a slight slope, which is what was also making me think fixed, but guess I could use leveling feet.
If on casters I can turn the rack to face the doorway into the room. This is something that can't be done if fixed due to space. You would walk in and the left side of the rack would be facing the door.


If I went fixed, the rack would be a 38U and 27" deep. I have never worked with cable ladder before. I see if comes in 6' minimum sections. Do I need to keep the rack face like 6' away or can the ladder be cut down? What is ample room between the back wall/wire panel and the back of the rack, for servicing, etc? The doorway is facing this area (between wall and back of rack). The rack height is 70 5/8" do I set the ladder to rest and directly anchor on the top of the rack or am I better off using the cable ladder elevation kit to raise the height more?
Post 2 made on Wednesday May 10, 2017 at 16:01
weddellkw
Long Time Member
Joined:
Posts:
January 2013
186
I've always preferred fixed racks when possible (ie. can be serviced w/out gymnastics to get to it, and by those technicians whom might be described as portly.)

I'd say minimum depth behind the rack is 3 feet. That's not going to be pleasant to work in though, particularly the bottom half of the rack. Ideally you can sit on a chair/stool/5-gallon bucket and comfortably lean over to reach floor, bottom shelves, other.

I would definitely be concerned about casters on ANY slope. A rack w/ amps etc in it isn't something you want moving around on its own.

I've cut down cable ladders to fit as well. Sawzall and a bi-metal blade will get it done in a pinch. I once had to cut the backs off a pair of MA racks because they were spec'd based on height of the front of equipment space, but ceiling was sloped following the roof line, so you couldn't actually push them in to place. "Leave the walk/design to the sales guy" they said. The sales guy didn't cut down the racks for me...
Post 3 made on Wednesday May 10, 2017 at 20:45
kwkshift
Active Member
Joined:
Posts:
February 2004
508
You could also affix rollers, like casters, but fixed so the rack can only roll back and forth. That way there is no fear of the rack rolling all over the place uncontrollably.
OP | Post 4 made on Thursday May 11, 2017 at 13:50
imt
Long Time Member
Joined:
Posts:
June 2007
466
Figure some pics of the room below:

Top pic is entering the utility room and you can see that the wall with the wiring panels are right there. Second photo is further into the room, where all the electric is and facing the LV panels.

So I have thought of  a bunch of options with using a BGR 3827 Rack

A) Put a cable ladder mounted to the wall lets say between the wire duct and the Strut, I would have to come out like 40" to have 3' of clear space. The rack then would have its back facing the wire panels and the side would be in close proximity to the wall with the drain pipe.  This will give more space when you walk in the room but then when you walk in you are walking in to the side of the the cable ladder and the rear of the rack.

B) Same scenario but flipping the rack so the front is facing the LV Panels. I can also move the rack down more to have 4' of space if needed.

C)  I move the Coax Panel and put it on the wall with the waste pipe between the corner and cleanout.  I then put the rack side either up against the plywood or within a few inches.  The front of the rack would face the doorway.  I can come 40" or maybe even 48" off the waste pipe wall.  I then wouldn't need any cable ladder. The left side of the coax panel in the pic is like 48" off the waste pipe wall. The front of the rack would sit approx where the wire duct ends on the left.

D) I think about switching to a DWR rack and mount it to the wall and move the coax panel. However, that would involve doubling up the plywood and affecting the wireduct, etc.

Thoughts?



Post 5 made on Wednesday May 17, 2017 at 13:01
AMSAudioVideo
Lurking Member
Joined:
Posts:
September 2010
3
Not knowing how much equipment you have...we always prefer fixed racks over wall mounted. What about putting the rack front face the door, 3ft from the LV panels and the back of the rack 3ft (or more) from the drain pipe on back wall. Build a riser if they want it off the ground. Cable tray in a "T" formation from the back wall out to the rack out in the room. The cable tray will give you a spot for all your "service loops" as well. Here is an example of some racks we just rolled on-site..

OP | Post 6 made on Wednesday May 17, 2017 at 16:08
imt
Long Time Member
Joined:
Posts:
June 2007
466
Pic didn't come through.

Curious to see the pic. I did get the caster kit for the BGR rack just to see and think maybe I might keep in on wheels and put it between the door and Coax panel. Tehe back of the rack on the wall with the panels. So wire can come right out the end of the wireduct and loop down and back up to the top of the rack.

The floor is just a hair out of level, where the rack is located, so the front right and back left caster can teeter so slightly since the back left is like 1/8" or less lower then the front. Have leveling feet on there as well and can just set the front so it can't move.
Post 7 made on Wednesday May 17, 2017 at 18:49
highfigh
Loyal Member
Joined:
Posts:
September 2004
8,311
Why not use a rack with a back pan that can be bolted to the wall? The rack would only need one or two casters at the front corner or, just mount it to the wall and leave the casters off- I did this with an Atlas rack about ten years ago and it has worked great. That floor is more uneven, too- no problems with acess and it can be hung from either side.
My mechanic told me, "I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder."


Jump to


Protected Feature Before you can reply to a message...
You must first register for a Remote Central user account - it's fast and free! Or, if you already have an account, please login now.

Please read the following: Unsolicited commercial advertisements are absolutely not permitted on this forum. Other private buy & sell messages should be posted to our Marketplace. For information on how to advertise your service or product click here. Remote Central reserves the right to remove or modify any post that is deemed inappropriate.

Hosting Services by ipHouse