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Topic:
why does no one except pakedge make a nice flush mount in-ceiling access point?
This thread has 26 replies. Displaying posts 16 through 27.
Post 16 made on Monday September 5, 2016 at 18:38
andrewinboulder
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On September 5, 2016 at 09:13, Ranger Home said...

But we stopped using ALL Ubiquiti products months ago and rid ourselves of that silly control/AWS situation. Life is so much better now. :)

Can you elaborate? Thought cloud key helped with this, although I'm only partly aware of what the issue is. Was it that the wifi settings can't be pulled up on site if another installer needs to edit, once the PC that was used to program is off-site?
Post 17 made on Tuesday September 6, 2016 at 04:17
cshepard
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On September 5, 2016 at 11:05, tomciara said...
I am amazed at the thought of running an AP in 140 degree heat. If the rest of the components are in a location running that warm (a cabinet), then a fan gets installed to prevent that kind of heat buildup.

In a 2-story, better performance in an upstairs closet than a downstairs closet? Or depends on the AP?

Spray foamed attics don't get that hot. That's the whole point.
Chris
Post 18 made on Tuesday September 6, 2016 at 09:26
KeithDBrown
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On September 5, 2016 at 11:29, gerard143 said...
Ya thats a potential concern I didn't think of. Also right out of the gate in most of these hidden installs your already cutting range down blowing thru closet walls or attic ceilings etc. But the tradeoff is probably worth it, just plan for it and have enough access points.

I wire for APs in every hallway, anteroom, etc. to keep them out of view, but also allow unobstructed coverage of the home. In Texas most master bedrooms are downstairs, and not that far from the main living area. In the connecting hallway it is easy to sneak an AP in unobtrusively. Hallways leading to bedrooms are similar. There is already going to be a smoke detector by code, and I am pretty sure I can be more discreet than whoever installed the smokes.

Utility rooms, pantries, entry closets, study closets (already getting data wiring regardless), patios, garage, etc. There are a lot of places that allow you to hide an AP in the open, still have it serviceable and still allow you to (largely) maximize range.
Post 19 made on Tuesday September 6, 2016 at 09:45
Ranger Home
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On September 5, 2016 at 18:38, andrewinboulder said...
Can you elaborate? Thought cloud key helped with this, although I'm only partly aware of what the issue is. Was it that the wifi settings can't be pulled up on site if another installer needs to edit, once the PC that was used to program is off-site?

There ya go, gotta add a cloud key. Why bother? Just use a router that has cloud access. Also allows local access when on site. Screw AWS, screw cloud keys. Screw complicating matters. Ovrc on Araknis routers takes all the madness out of using more complicated processes. Why would we want to complicate things??
Post 20 made on Tuesday September 6, 2016 at 11:17
tomciara
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On September 6, 2016 at 04:17, cshepard said...
Spray foamed attics don't get that hot. That's the whole point.

What??? You gotta explain this one...
There is no truth anymore. Only assertions. The internet world has no interest in truth, only vindication for preconceived assumptions.
Post 21 made on Tuesday September 6, 2016 at 11:28
SB Smarthomes
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On September 6, 2016 at 11:17, tomciara said...
What??? You gotta explain this one...

Spray foam insulation is usually sprayed up between the rafters effectively insulating the attic space itself.  Other forms of insulation (batt, blown in cellulose, etc.) are usually installed between the ceiling joists which insulates the room below, but the attic space remains uninsulated.
www.sbsmarthomes.com
Santa Barbara Smarthomes
Post 22 made on Tuesday September 6, 2016 at 11:33
KeithDBrown
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On September 6, 2016 at 11:17, tomciara said...
What??? You gotta explain this one...

Insulation is installed on all exterior walls, creating a "sealed" shell. While not directly conditioned space, the attic stays very comfortable. The energy efficiency ramifications are huge, but steps must be taken to ensure the house is sufficiently ventilated.
Post 23 made on Tuesday September 6, 2016 at 12:33
SammPX
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On September 6, 2016 at 11:33, KeithDBrown said...
Insulation is installed on all exterior walls, creating a "sealed" shell. While not directly conditioned space, the attic stays very comfortable. The energy efficiency ramifications are huge, but steps must be taken to ensure the house is sufficiently ventilated.

I believe they refer to it as "build it tight and ventilate it right"

I'm seeing spray foam a lot more here in the bay area. It can be 100 degrees outside but the attic is I'm guessing mid 80s.

And to the OP - wire in closets, mud room, pantry to get the coverage and put whatever AP is required. The AP will change at some point due to obsolescence upgrade.
Post 24 made on Tuesday September 6, 2016 at 12:46
KeithDBrown
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On September 6, 2016 at 12:33, SammPX said...
I believe they refer to it as "build it tight and ventilate it right"

I'm seeing spray foam a lot more here in the bay area. It can be 100 degrees outside but the attic is I'm guessing mid 80s.

That is exactly what they say, and as important as building it tight it, the ventilation is crucial. Getting fresh air in, allowing off gassing constructions materials out, etc.

From what I have seen, even in 100+ temps here in Texas, the semi-conditioned spaces rarely have more than a 10* delta from the conditioned spaces.
OP | Post 25 made on Tuesday September 6, 2016 at 23:12
gerard143
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No soffit and ridge vent on The spray foamed attics right?

Erv or Hrv to exchange air I'm sure.
Post 26 made on Tuesday September 6, 2016 at 23:18
Ranger Home
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On September 6, 2016 at 23:12, gerard143 said...
No soffit and ridge vent on The spray foamed attics right?

Correct, would defeat the purpose. zero vents in the house. Fresh air is dont through exchangers in the HVAC system.

It didnt make sense to me at first that the attic is insulated on the roof rafters. Seems like air conditioning the attic would not be efficient. but it is. you can have a 4000 sq foot house and you bill can be under $150 in the summer. Now thats efficient lol. Typically 10 degree difference in attic. With fiberglass it can 60 or 70 degree difference. Yikes!
Post 27 made on Wednesday September 7, 2016 at 17:30
FunHouse Texas
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fortunately in a foamed house - on a 100 degree day the attic temp can stay in the 80-90 degree range..depending on the inside house temp.
I AM responsible for typographical errors!
I have all the money I will ever need - unless i buy something..
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