Depends upon where the switch is located. If it's in mechanical space, install a contactor. They are inexpensive and easy to install.

If it's in a finished wall, change the bulbs.

It's a practical matter because of the cost vs benefits. Contactors are cheap and easy to install. Contactors should be standard practice in all your future new construction (or retro upgrades where it can be installed without tearing into finished surfaces) for exterior lighting loads that are switched, have the chance of being extended or have the potential to take in water.



In 40 years of working in homes you have never seen a dimming circuit with a contactor because you can't dim a contactor. It's either on or off.


Where's the GFI protection? If it's holiday receptacles, it's at the receptacle. If it's lighting it's at the panel behind the 8ANS which will fry before the GFI trips.


Increasing the load outside of spec can happen, which is why you use a contactor. Just as long as the load is within the spec of the contactor/conductors/breaker it's no worry. Even if the load goes over spec, the 8ANS is protected and the service call is for line voltage and not low voltage. And, even then, the replacement part is a $30 contactor, not a $100 switch.


And what you describe is exactly why changing the bulbs is not a permanent solution, whereas a contactor is. I would fix it correctly the first time so I don't have to roll a truck on a service call down the road if someone changes the light bulbs.

Finished wall. Switch is by the front door in a 3 gang box with 2 other switches.

Where is the switch in the gangbox? You have to de-rate the load the switch can handle because it is ganged.

The 8ANS can handle 6 amps non-ganged. It can do 5 at the end of a gangbox and only 3.5 in the middle.

Pull the switch and throw a clamp on ampmeter on it to see what it is pulling under load.

If it is in the middle and pulling 5 amps or less, get a new 8ANS and move it to the end of the gangbox (you broke off the cooling tabs to put it in the middle).

If its over 5 amps and all of the loads are incadescent dimmable (not magnetic low voltage) you can put in a RRD-10ND which can handle 800 watts on the end of a gangbox and 650 watts in the middle.

If it's over that, the RRD-8S-DV switch can handle 8 amps on the end of a gangbox and 7 amps in the middle.

Doesn't Luton make appliance switch or relay switch?
That would be rated at 15Amps.

Existing meaning the Ra2.


You put it back to a standard switch it should cause no problems since that basic switch will handle the load.


As others have mentioned, a contactor is a good choice, but is there any possibility of access to the wiring?

I think after he throws a clamp meter on it a DV will handle the load. I would think the 8ANS would be shutting completely down to overheat if the load was higher then the DV could do.

The appliance switch is a corded plugin module.

You guys all have the tools to monitor RF spectrum, HDMI connectivity, network connectivity, etc, etc, etc. Go buy a meter with an amp clamp like [Link: amazon.com]. Pull the switch out of the wall, turn it on, and clamp the meter around the load wire with the switch turned on. If the running amps are over 8, you should figure out a different solution (like the contactor mentioned). The switch will heat up significantly because if it's pushing 8 amps through it much like a dimmer is only listed for 600 watts or 1000 watts.

The landscape lights are likely fed from a 12v transformer(s).

*As listed, if the switch is running a motor, fountain pump, etc. over 5.8A, then you should figure out a different solution.
**If the switch is ganged with other switches, the rated is less as well.

Nah, that's too much money.
All you need is 12-15 bucks
[Link: m.harborfreight.com]

This- [Link: lutron.com]

Edit- they have a switched version....

Well you make some interesting points but I do not agree with your conclusions.

For one I never said anyone was trying to dim a contactor.

And the GFI will trip long before the dimmer will fry.

But your entitled to your opinions and as long as you meet code then do whatever you like.

How about this. *why not* use a contactor for outside switched loads in new construction or where it's feasible to do it in a remodel?

At least a couple of reasons.

- your solving a problem that my experience says does not exist.

- lots of customers like being able to dim outside lights.

Have you had any issues with inspectors not being sure if it meets code or not?

Have you had any issues with the contactor not meeting the minimum load requirements of the controlling device?

Really?


I find that very surprising. I would think it's more like "I had ONE client that wanted to dim the outside lights for some reason no one could understand.".