I have few IP cameras that I will be installing on the stucco wall without any overhead (eve/soffit) protection.
The camera has a 'belly' that all the cables can fit thru, but it's in no way weathertight.
I'm afraid that overtime, the RJ45 pins on both the male and female ends will corrode and fail. On the male end, I can simply re-terminate the connection, but the female is a pigtail coming from the camera.

What are you guys doing to protect the connection point?
I've seen gel filled RJ11 and RJ14 jacks, but that's the end on the camera and it didn't come with one.
Unless I use heat shrink or elastic tape, I don't know of any other way to protect the connection. Putting things in a weatherproof box/enclosure is not an option; like I said, this is stucco wall and only RJ45 sticking thru the wall/stucco.

Just wrap it in electrical tape. Instant waterproof. Just kidding.

The hikvision ip cameras that we use have a weatherproof boot that installs over the rj45 that mates with the connector on the camera.


[Link: cctvforum.com]

i dont know how to post pictures but if you go to link and scroll down the page you'll see a picture of the connector

Wha about dielectric grease like the phone companies use in the rj11 jacks on their demarcs?

That's what I'm talking about.
I found this so far: [Link: amazon.com] , but wanted to see what people with actual experience have been using.

That's great but I'm not using HikVision and therefore don't have an option for that connector. The linked thread also talks about using electrical tape, stretch rubber tape, etc. I don't like any of those options. Not only does it look like crap (if seen), there is no guarantee that I or my helper will do a good job.

The benefit of using gel as I see it, is that I can squirt (yes, I said it) it into the female part (pun intended) and then shove the male part into it.
God damn it; I just put this thread into the gutter.

You can get dielectric grease at any local auto parts store.

This works well for that as well as any other hole,gap,etc that needs sealed.

[Link: oreillyauto.com]

[Link: amazon.com]

[Link: amazon.com]

We use this stuf.

On coax joints that I've done on a tower, I've used appropriate drip loops, dielectric grease in the connector, and covered the whole thing in the coax seal tape. I've never seen one of those connections have an issue. When you're doing something at the top of a 200-300' tower, you don't want to have to go up and fix it!

Note that if you use the coax seal, after about a week, the tape actually fuses between the layers, and becomes one solid mass. The only way to get it off, is to cut it off.

When I was younger we used to do tower jobs. We once put up a 10' C/Ku dish on top of a 65' tower so we could get line of sight for satellite reception. We had to haul a special work platform up to the top so that we could make all the connections and adjustments.

When I was up high on those towers my knees would shake so bad that my legs would get tired. Thank goodness for safety belts.

Heard that. I used to climb towers to fix/replace radios. Never thought much about heights until I fell off a customers roof. I had one foot on the ladder and one on the roof when the shingle I had stepped on came loose. Luckily it was a single story where I went up. Ladder went one way and I went the other. Gutter tore up my shin from ankle to knee but I grabbed it on the way down. $800 to fix the gutter was way better than breaking something. Two story houses don't bother me anymore but my legs get a little shaky any higher. I leave the tower climbs to the younger guys.