Gotta wire up a 110 electrical contactor for a project.

However I can't find a explication for the terminals?

I have the following terminals:

A1
A2
L1
L2
T1
T2

Any one who's done one before kind enough to let me know what terminal is what?

Google and YouTube have provided explanations as to how they work, but can't get an answer as to actual terminal explanations.

Also the counter guys at the electrical supply where clueless as well.

Thanks ahead of time.

HAHA....must be early. Am I the only one who read this as "I need to wire up an electrical contRactor"? :P

Like the counter guy, consider me clueless.

Wishful thinking- I read it the same way, at first.

Suggest looking up the diagram for the specific manufacturer/part, but from a Google this looks like the common scheme:
A1/A2 Control coil (voltage across these 2 activates contactor)
L1/L2 Line side (power in)
T1/T2 Load side (power out)

Hope this helps
Skip

That's what I figured.

Can find any info on this part.

Thanks.

And by "this part" you mean... [this is where you put the brand and other information, no matter how sketchy, in the post].

You seem to know that it's got a 110VAC coil, but I'm assuming. Test for that: measure resistance across terminals, and when you find resistance other than zero or infinity, you're across the coil. Apply 110 VAC to those two terminals. If the contactor smokes or flames, the coil wanted less voltage; you've now destroyed it and you can follow the next approach below. If the relay snaps, it's probably a 110VAC coil. If it doesn't snap, it's probably meant to use a higher voltage.

if it does close, measure resistance across the other terminals while it's closed. Compare with resistances you got with the coil not energized. This will tell you what connects to what when the coil is energized.

The next approach is to call Grainger, tell them what you're trying to do and what the voltages and currents are, and have them specify a part. They will be able to spec a part because the part they spec has written specifications, so you'll instantly have the data you need to connect the new model.

What is so golden about the one oddball contactor that you already have that makes it necessary to use just that one? What will you do if this works and you have to make a second one? Or if it doesn't and you have to make a second one? Since you don't have specs on it, how do you know it has a 110V coil?

Also, studying specs for other contactors should show a pattern as to what A, L and T mean.

I know it's 110 because it's what I asked for.

I've already done testing to see what's connected when the coil closes.

Just wanted to follow the proper wiring specs.

This part is an EATON C25BNB230A.

I understand This is something basic for electricians but to not include a wiring diagram or at least a schematic on the part itself is annoying.

JOOC did you Google that part number - it took me about 5 seconds to locate the datasheet for it.

I googled the number. Got a big ass document with general info about their contacts. Don't recal actual labels on the terminals though, might of missed it in my rush.

Got the info I needed. Thanks folks.

You're right -- the docs have no definition of the terminal labels. I've seen L used for line. Of course, it might mean load. And what's the sense behind T meaning load? Or line?

I'd look at the relay and wire the line to the set of terminals closer to the base, that is, further from any prying fingers; that's only if the physical construction makes that possible.

The item doesn't have something similar to this Cutler-Hammer diagram on it?

Mario, that identifies things if you already know what the designations mean. That's the problem!

True but if you search "markings on contactor" you will quickly find any number of sources on what means what.

But then if you don't know what they mean maybe you shouldn't be the one putting it in?

Is this for customer? If so I would go back to this sites old saying, hire a pro!

Everybody has to learn at one point right?

It's basically a relay with different markings. Different labels so I wanted to be sure.

Found out the T is for TAP. L is line but no idea why A is the coil.