We are working on a take over job that used Bose in Open House LV cans. The speaker runs are all different lengths and none will reach the rack.

1. "Wire Nut" and extend them into the rack
2. Keystone speaker posts and then jumpers to the rack
3. Some better looking option that wont have 8 wall plates with banana plugs poking out.


What do we do. What is the cleanest way to manage this now a days?

We will have all of our gear rack mounted.

No "Wire Nut", but I'd do butt connectors

#2 option is fine if you want to avoid to use butt connectors

Something else you might put into consideration: [Link: onqproducts.com]

Din Rail terminal blocks:

[Link: automationdirect.com]

Doesn't get much cleaner, and would work great in the open house cans.

How you "wire nut" is up to you. Some people prefer butt connectors some use Wire Nuts and we use wagos but the reality is that there is no difference. Put the splice point in a can so you can access it later if neccesary and close the door when you are done.

Din rail huh? I have been avoiding them for years but that looks cool.

I solder and heat shrink extensions onto the lines where necessary. If I need really clean in-line joints, I solder tin each side of the splice, connect with bare butt-splices [no jokes please], crimp and then solder soak the splice, then heat shrink [with glue-lined if outdoors].

Have never had a failure...

Or you can employ the method some guys in my market seem to prefer:

1)  Hack the insulation open with any dull implement you can borrow from the customer
2)  Twist the wires together [being sure to leave whisps of frayed wire around the joint]
3)  Wrap  single strip of black electrical tape mostly around the exposed conductor
4)  Drop wire on floor and/or tangle into a knot with other wires nearby

 

Jon, I would tell you to jump over to IP as I had a thread on this very subject. Well, it started as a wall rack and by page 3-5 it took another direction.
But since IP is down, for me at least, feel free to call me to discuss.

I bought some DIN connectors in Red and Black. I also purchased some double level ones that I used in a 70V system and I really liked the way it's looking, even though I haven't finished the dress-up part yet.

Like I said, get on IP when you can, there are several options to choose from and there's a new product that was significantly cheaper than alternatives and so far I can't find anything wrong with it.

I will be on the 70V jobsite today; I'll take a picture if I get a chance.

I'd use Direct Mount Terminal Blocks attached to a splice area likely inside of a small structured wiring panel (ugly box) placed inside of the wall and extend all of your new wires from there.

We patch everything with DIN rail now even on NC projects. DIN rail goes either on a patch rack (larger jobs) or we install it inside a wiring can on smaller jobs, where the rack needs to go in the closet, etc.

Unless you think that at some point you would benefit from some sort of intermediate "terminal strip" of some sort I would go with soldered on extensions - something like the approach described by another poster.

So on the Din rail solution does anyone have a source they prefer that I can order the red and black ones from. The one Easton posted looked good but I don't know exactly which pieces to order. I have three zones that will be grouped (single speaker closets) into one zone.

I assume something like the DN-t10A would work. Are all the actual rails the a standard size height wise?

What size OnQ enclosure?

If it's big enough, you could simply mount several terminal barrier blocks in the can and then run the "extensions" out of the can, through a single large pass through wall plate, bundled up nicely, to the rack.

[Link: automationdirect.com]

[Link: automationdirect.com]

[Link: automationdirect.com]

Free 2-day FedEx.

For the 3 zones you want to link together, do it with these, then run 1 line into the DIN rail, and then through to your amplifier:

[Link: ebay.com]

We keep those and the 3 port ones in all our parts bins as they are SUPER useful for temporary and permanent splices, multiple gauge, etc.

[Link: ebay.com]

Mac gets credit for the Wagos and EJ for the DIN rail....

PS not affiliated with the eBay guy, just a quick/easy source.