First, I apologize for posting in the "professionals" forum - I am clearly not one. I posted this to the "help me pick a remote" forum without much help, and I was hoping that this crack forum full of professionals could help me solve this issue definitively. Here's the original post:

""Hey guys, newbie here.

Having problems getting my SA 8300HD (Time Warner in TX) to work in a hidden environment (in a credenza). Have tried the Sewell BlastIR without success. After doing a bunch of research on this forum and other web resources, I would like a definitive, simple solution to this problem. My setup is very simple - SA8300HD and the WD Live Hub 1TB are the only components.

From my research, I've found a few possible solutions:
- URC RFS200 PowerPak Bundle with MasterControl RF20
- Xantech 29195DBKIT Hidden Link Plasma Proof Black IR Receiver ([Link: amazon.com])
- Xantech 29195DBKIT Hidden Link Plasma Proof Black IR Receiver ([Link: amazon.com])
- URC MRF-300 Addressable RF Base Station (turning the gains down)

I'm happy to use our OEM remotes but could also upgrade to a universal if needed. Would like to spend less than $100 on this.

Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks in advance.""

If anyone can offer any definitive solutions to this problem, I would be very grateful.

BK

Base on thread title and description, your cable set top box does not have problem. All you want to achieve your goal is to have your set top box sits inside the cabinet with door close.

1. I would never recommend to use IR receiver (Dinky link) with OEM remote. Due to user have to be within the range of the IR receiver in order to have the control system to be operated properly.

2. You did a diligence homework to search for what to suit your need. However, those are DIY items and they will leave a lot of room to desire for.

3. My recommendation is MX-450/RFX-350. I'd strongly recommend to look for a local URC dealer, he will remedy your issues.

Actually, you asked and I told you the Dinky Link will solve your issues in that thread. You then posted a link to the product below my cost, and I exited the discussion. However, the product I recommended will still work beautifully and without an issue with the SA 8300HD. It is not a DIY product as mentioned above. I URC remote would be a better option with a RF base, but I would recommend other remotes over the MX450.

Thanks for your input. However, I cannot justify such expense for, what seems to my ignorant eyes, is a simple problem. The components you listed would run about $300, which is way more than I'm willing to spend at this point. 

First of all, thank you for answering my questions. Twice. I apologize if I offended you or your business - clearly I am an end user and have no business posting in the professional forum. I am simply seeking the advice and guidance of said professionals.

Would the Dinkly Link LCD proof or Plasma proof work best? I've read differing accounts on this forum, with most leaning toward plasma proof. But those conversations are more than 5 years old and I assume that the technology has changed since then.

Thanks - BK

I only use the plasma proof, and they have been very reliable pieces. No offense taken. The MX450 and MRF350 is more like a $500 combo actually.

No matter what, you will need to blow your budget by at least double. If the cable box remote can control the WD hard drive (no idea, never used one) then your simplest and most cost effective solution is using the OEM cable remote in conjunction with a name brand IR kit such and Xantech or Niles. If you choose the Niles IR path, ensure the receiver model ends in "20" ie an MS-220.

Just because you see it as a "simple" problem doesn't mean it doesn't cost money.  Buy a quality product and you'll get quality results.


If you want a "simple" answer to your question....Set the Cable box on the floor on the outside of the credenza like you did when you were 12.  That's simple.

The Xantech unit will work and has worked for many, many installers.

Just for conversations sake, you do know that the ir repeater must stick to a very specific spot on the front of the cable box correct?  You can't just willy nilly stick it wherever you want.  

True, very true sir. Simple does not necessarily mean cheap, but at it's core, I need a device to repeat the IR signal from the remote to a hidden receiver. So the pathway is simple, but the components, especially this box top, are not. The previous IR repeater I had worked like a champ with my WDTV component using the OEM remote.

My initial "simple" solution was to cut the front of a drawer out and then add hinges. But my interior designer wife wouldnt let me cut on the mid century credenza.

Yes I know the positioning is crucial on the SA8300. When I had the BlastIR, I tried it on every possible location, more or less following a grid system around the "eye" on the box. I tried in various lighting conditions, with TV on/off, and even the pin hole through a piece of electrical tape trick. In hundreds of tries, I got it to work ONE time, but it was un-repeatable and thus not functional for regular use. So back it went.

BK

Buy Xantech Dinky Link plasma proof kit. Install kit. Place emitter just to left of numbers on face of SA 8300HD. Close door, use remote. Come back and let us know that its working because that will work. The end.


Seriously, its that easy. I don't know why others are confusing you with this and that. The Xantech piece WILL work, its very basic, and its not rocket science. I have two here in the box to keep on the truck because they simply work and I never know when I might need one. I have used THIS exact kit on probably a hundred SA 8300HD. It. Simply. Works!!!

Funny when you mentioned your wife is a Interior Designer. Just put in non-functional whatever, as long they look nice. Then it is all ok.

As other mentioned, there is no brainer to make it work. As a CI, I'll put in what will work and won't break. Just can't afford to make an unnecessary service call trip.

Interior designer? Are you kidding? She would insist that her clients use the URC equipment listed above, or more likely more expensive models running at least six hundred dollars. PLUS programming.

We do not usually like interior designers because they are not willing to adjust their reality to the idea that the shape and look of things depend on what they must do, known as "form follows function." If a square was more attractive than a circle, an interior designer would specify square wheels on her car. No, wait, I mean on her client's car.

The hole you propose to make is a perfect example of that. I agree with her that it's tacky, but now she and you are in the position of being her client -- realize that: she charges money for people to be her client, and she's now insisting on being her own client, so throw your concepts of cost out the window! Accept this reality now and all will go well.

And tell her you know of a guy (me) who carried around, for 18 months, the 2" diameter plug that I hole-sawed out the rear of a Ming Dynasty cabinet several years ago. It took me that long to throw it away. Form follows function.

Earlier, I wrote:

However, you have done the right thing, because pros will see your post.


There is a chasm between "works" and "no success." It did absolutely nothing? When you looked at the emitters with your cell phone camera, you saw no evidence of IR being emitted? I'm busting your balls here, but a problem is that you don't know what didn't work about it that made it fail overall. Since you're a DIY, that does not bode well for you.


Somehow I find it hard to believe that there is not a TV somewhere in the room. Light from TVs can cause some IR sensors not to work, or not to work all the time. Again, a good reason to post here.


The state of the art right now doesn't have a solution in that price range, so you have to adjust what you want so that your desires match reality.


If I read correctly, some solutions were offered, but maybe nobody came out and said you simply can't do it for as cheaply as you want. It's TOTALLY doable!


I disagree. That's a totally workable solution, and it's what I'd use. In fact, I do use one. And it's an irrelevant argument that you have to be within the range of the factory remote. If the box was not in the crescenda, you would not need an RF system, but when you lower it several inches to put it inside, now you need an RF system because of distance? Does not follow.


Except the Xantech.


And you can hire a chauffeur to drive you to the store. It's nice, it will work, but so will driving your own car.

Just adjust your brain to the reality that you're working for a designer and point out to her that if she has enough billing to make some kind of living, and she is going to specify anything on the project, then the budget must be parallel to what she would tell her clients to spend. By the way, that gets you off the hook for price and might educate her a bit about what she's doing.

Bull...you're just trying to complicate things to make his life difficult and land him in the doghouse.





p.s. The Xantech will work

p.p.s. So will the Niles

p.p.p.s.  How long must we endure a thread about IR repeaters?

p.p.p.p.s.  I believe Goldenzrule to be the bigger nerd
 

Where's the Monkey?  

Somebody get the G#d D@mn  Monkey out of his closet!!