HA! I wish I had typed that!

He deserved it :-).

(((((use a longer mike cable) lol ))))

And yes... this forum is great and fun... and a place to learn from... and share ideas with.... Thank you Daniel. We appreciate you

I have belonged to other.... similar sites.... always come back here when all is said and done.... simply because this site is the best.

After re-reading the entire thread again... I have to admit I never addressed Tom's reply to my "minor correction".

I'd like to do that. because....

I wasn't disagreeing with him at all... just pointing out a MINOR technicality.... and he is correct... it had little revelance to the original post.... but what I said was technically correct.... and had applications to subsequent posts.

If you go back to my original post in this thread... I never stated that you could blow a tweeter by using a 14 volt battery. I never said that at all.

I was merely pointing out that the concept that DC could not flow through a circuit if a cap was in series with it was not correct. And that is true. A cap will block DC as soon as it reaches a full charge... and in doing so.. will protect the tweeter.... but until it reaches it's full charge.. current will flow. You'll have to argue with a higher authority in nature than me to dispute that.

I stated that while the series capacitor is charging... current will flow though the tweeter. That is totally correct. It certainly will... the full In-rush current will definitely flow through a tweeter connected in series with a capacitor until the cap reaches the potential applied.

I did, in fact end that post by saying I have never seen a speaker blown by using a battery to "pop" it.... and out of hundreds... I haven't. Not a single one.

Tom posted that that was irrelelent considering the short time it takes a cap to reach full charge... especially through an 8 ohm circuit.

He was correct... it was irrevelent to the post. But is was not irrelevent info in general.

The reason I added the minor correction was simple. The reason I added the correction had nothing to do with tweeters.... it was simply to correct the statement that a cap will block DC. It will...AFTER it is charged... and that time is fractional.... but current wil indeed flow during the charging period.... which was all i stated.

Years ago, I was in a Radio Shack... and a customer needed a 1 amp fuse rated at 120 volts. The store did not have one. But they did have a 1/2 amp fuse rated at 250v.

The clerk told the customer that fuse would be a good replacement because "If you double the voltage... you halve the current." I tried to explain the difference... but the customer decided the "Radio Shack Specialist" must know what he was talking about and bought the under-sized fuse. His problem.

Well in this customers case... the electron theory was true... but the application was wrong. The voltage rating on a fuse only relates to the maximum voltage a fuse can safely protect. The current flow is another matter. And the fuse the Radio Shack "specialist" sold him was rated at one-half the amperage needed. It most likely blew as soon as he turned the amp on.

That made me sensitive to misinformation. Tom is totally correct in stating that an in line cap will protect a tweeter from Direct Current... it certainly will... no question about that at all....

My attempt was to correct the minor difference.... to state that current will indeed flow through the tweeter for a time period determined by the circuit resistance (talking DC here).... and that varies with the tweeters DC resistance and the resistance of the wire connecting it... and the internal resistance of the battery. The charge rate in an 8 ohm circuit is so fast that that really doesn't really matter.

If you go back to my original post....,my point was simply that a 14 volt battery momentarially popping a decent quality speaker will not result in damage... and in the real world... it will not..... and that was all I wastrying to say.

"What if the speakers are on a different floor than the gear?"

As I said the APT2 is a two piece unit. What I didn't say is it is wireless. You plug in the tone side then walk upstairs where the mic side has a readout that confirms polarity:) So simple even the only installer in town can use it! :)

Here's the blown tweeter info. He's been there and done that. He might be the only one, though.

I have serviced amps to component level since the mid 70's and the worst sound in the world is an amp "going DC" where it outputs from 15 to 75 volts DC - straight thru your woofer. Before we installed relays on our test benches we lost more than a handful of WOOFERS (never one tweeter) to amps going DC. It only seemed to take a couple of seconds; obviously depending on the level of offset and current capability of the power supply in the amp.

We have blown tweeters - usually with a feedback problem and the squeal knocked a few out. Clipping the amp (running way past its capability) will tend to kill tweeters (separate technical issue there). Too little power in an amp is worse for speakers (again, only if you run the amp into clip level) than too much (equals clean waveforms going to your woofs and tweets).

I still say the best post here was holding a wire to the woofer cone while someone else pops the wire... Maybe we're about done with this thread....

I Guess "built in condenser mic" threw me a little. Sounds like a good piece of equipment to have around.

Warren, you are doing the best thing from both the micro and the macro approach here when you correct something like that, even if it goes off topic.

We do not just learn and retain the "on-topic" stuff on this site. We retain all of it that piques our interest. That mostly irrelevant information was okay, but since it was mostly irrelevant MISinformation, someone was going to remember it and not do as well as they will now that you have corrected it.

This is true in the micro sense -- some individual out there knows more now. This is true in the macro sense -- the correction ensures that the information on the site is accurate.

Many thanks.

Test'um have a neat little product that is great for testing speaker installations. Once connected it will pop the speakers continously (with approx. 5 sec gaps) until turned off and it's not expensive.

[Link: test-um.com]

Yes, I bought one and use it. It's a great sanity check on distributed audio systems before connectinging the amp

Cheers

Thank you for the kind words Ernie.

I don't post in here very much because the question has usually been answered by the time I read the post...and the overwhelming majority of the time, the answers are right on so there is nothing much to add.

I do come here often to read however. I enjoy this forum very much. One of the best parts about it to me is it is rare to hear an unkind word spoken even in a major disagreement over some topic. That is a tribute to all posting in here.

Call me paranoid, but I wouldn't want someone to "pop" a speaker with a battery while I was holding a piece of wire against the cone.

"Pop" indeed!


Shirley, you jest!

Paranoid

speaker wire only hurts when it is buried under your thumb and you can't get it out. LOL

or when it pokes you in the eye while on a pre-wire!

Oh, so when you go back to do the trim-out, eye-pokes don't hurt? That's good to know!