I'm looking to install the largest 42U-44U rack and still have the ability to pull it out from the wall. It doesn't have to rotate or do anything other than come straight out 10"-30" (nothing specific as there will be a closet door on the side of the rack).

I know about the MA AXS but I don't like the idea of having to setup service tracks and stands in order to move it. This is just to show customers quickly as well as light servicing. Is there any other solution you guys would recommend that isn't a two step process? Extremely heavy duty glide rails?

Put wheels on it. Roll it wherever you want.

I probably should have been a little more specific. Looking for a fixed in-wall pull out. This would work but I was hoping for something I could maintain a tight trim opening around the rack. The wheels would work but I would likely have to build a specific frame guide inside the closet to ensure the proper sliding. This plus the top would shift back and forth depending how it sits on the carpet making for operation to be very clumsy.

[Link: middleatlantic.com]

Maybe M/A WR?

Drewski, the physics here work against that kind of solution. Even partially loaded, a 42U rack can weigh multiple hundreds of pounds. I'm assuming you will install with it recessed so its face is flush to the wall, which means it needs to pull out quite a ways to allow you to actually access the rear. Also assume you need at least 24" of space behind the rack for access once extended, if the rack itself is 24" deep that means it needs to pull out 48".

It would take a VERY strong and well-secured frame to support 300 lbs sitting at basically the end of a 4 foot lever... that's why MA requires the tracks and stand for extending the full-height non-rotating racks. You might be able to trim tightly to the front of the WR series, which rotates to minimize the distance that it needs to extend...

Ha! I completely spaced the thread on IP until Audiophiliac responded. Brain fart!


I understand what your saying but I was curious if people have tried something different. These have a 450lb rating:
[Link: fultererusa.com]


Maybe M/A WR?

That would be the ticket however I was hoping to have side access. I guess I don't need to install a closet/cabinet door if we used the WR rack. I just was hoping to show wire management from the closet door and only pull it out for service needs. Customers can get the jist of the wiring from the closet view vs. having to pull the rack entirely out. Plus I was hoping to hide a structured wiring panel on the back wall to the right of the rack (looking at the front of it). Again the wheels aren't out of the question but I wanted to have base trim so it looks decent. See picture below.

 Save yourself the headaches.
Find a way to install an access panel or door on back/side wall. Instant access to back of the rack and none of the headaches that come with racks that pull out, slide out.
Unless you have hard surface floor and can use casters.
I have partly loaded 42U rack and I can tell you that it's got to be more than 450Lbs. I would not trust those sliders you listed at full extension and you still don't have a way to get to the back of equipment with those.
Don't forget that wire weights quite a bit as well and places lateral loads when you create wiring loops that then have to extend as rack is slid out. 

Those sliders I picked within two clicks on a google search. Not trying to argue, just trying to see if it's possible. And I agree, if I put a rack mount UPS I'm F'd!

 Use fixed wheels (not casters) and a removable baseboard panel in front of the rack. If you work with the carpenters it can usually be done invisibly. 

I've also done cabinets where the entire front of the cabinet either hinges out or is removable so that the rack could roll out. 

A few years ago I added some rack rails to the top of a MA SRSR rack.  The SRSR has a max of 30U, but the additional rails brought it up to (I think) 42U.

The SRSR only has a 250lb capacity so it may not work for your application.  In my case, the extra height was really just needed to fill the cabinet and all it contained at the top was an iPod dock and some blank panels.

SRSR 30U:


Add some more rack rails for additional height:


Close ups:

Don't be so quick to write those things off.

I used a product that handled a 40" Mitsubishi tube TV, which weighed in at a lite 300lbs, years ago.

It would extend a full 36" and rotate. No diving board issues either. Rock solid, and would most certainly have taken a lot more weight.


The framing that you bolt the slide to had better be pretty substantial though...






I see they have one that measures 60" and has 60" of travel. What a beast that's gotta be....

 I know of two different carpenters that have HUGE sliding draws in the bed of thier truck. They can open a good 4-5 feet and one guy has 600+ lbs of stuff in it all the time. I think he said the slides were rated for 1/2 ton. No idea of brand, sorry. but it does exist, and isn't made of pricey unobtanium. 

Thanks for the pic's Paul!

I might give these a shot. [Link: accuride.com]. They also have a have a bracket kit that will allow me to mount the rack easier. The issue will be attaching the slides to the rack and the kit will help.

I'm going to keep digging to see if there is something with a higher load rating but I feel comfortable with trying these. (I have found some telescopic slides on Chamberlin that would fit the bill but their website is one of the worst I've ever visited! [Link: chambrelan.us] )

Thought I would show what we are using in some solutions. This is a pic where the carpenters have not finished but you will get the idea. this is a rack on casters. all I did was cut a blank plate and attached it with a magnet to cover the wheels to make it look like a slide out rack. I can now just take the plate off and roll the rack out to service if needed.

One thing I learned on the Snap av slide out racks is they recommend using the slide out base with one of there normal racks. Not the slide out rack. They need to fix this issue.



Here is a better pick to see the bottom plate

 One thing Snap needs to do is to move the casters inward more. 
I have installation almost identical to yours where both sides are very close to the rack and the bottom skirt (hinge mounted) is pushed out when the casters swivel, but there isn't enough room for the skits to swing out.