I'm going to pre-wire for audio \ video \ data in a new construction in Suffolk County, New York. I'd like to make sure that I don't do anything to jeopardize passing inspection. I plan to use bundled cable going from a distribution point to 6 locations in the house. Does anyone know the local code in Suffolk and offer any helpful info?

Thanks...RN

When in doubt, follow what the electrician does. I've never known low voltage code to be more strict than high. Exceeding code never hurts, but guessing might.

Don't go around studs or joists if he drills through; don't use plastic if he uses steel boxes; tack your wires at the same intervals, and fire-caulk your holes if he does. In other words, don't do anything that might draw the inspector's attention.

I've done a few dozen jobs in Nassau Co., and only 2 in Suffolk. Never ran into any unusual codes that weren't just common sense.

Doug @ HomeWorks

Thanks, that's good advice. I was also planning on using pipe strap and attach them to the joists instead of speaker rough in brackets and just insert the speaker cables through and knot them. Will that do?

Get wire that has a UL rating on it. I think you need a class 2 rating for low voltage inside a house. If the wire does not have this rating on it, it might pass or the inspector might make you replace it. God forbid, but it does happen. Send a note to Larry Fine about this issue.

Pipe strap is not made for wiring, so that will attract the attention of the inspector: "This guy is using plumbing parts for wiring; what the heck else doesn't he know how to do right?"

At that point he will be spending time looking at the low voltage wiring. If he finds no problem, he might be annoyed. If he finds a problem, he will be annoyed. Don't annoy him.

Pipe strap is not good for wiring because its edges are sharp enough to mess with the insulation.

Use nylnon tie-wraps with mounting screw holes. Look at the Caddy line of hardware and find something that has smooth edges where the wire goes through.

Support your wire every four feet on an open span. Keep it well away from anything warm. If you have to go through a chimney, and the modern ones have lots of room for this, tie it down firmly as far away from the metalwork as possible.

Make it look like you thought about every possible way that the wire could get damaged and you routed the wire to avoid that. Of course, you will have to think that way to make it look that way, and that will help you.

Hmm, do inspectors worry about low voltage? I thought they pretty much ignored it unless it looked like a 10 year old installed it.

FYI, Suffolk county requires a low voltage license but I've not seen it become an issue but who knows? there are wire staples with plastic shieldes that are used for this type of cable. US Tec showed them at a training a couple of years ago. They are available from ECD, ask for Robbie. There is actually a staple gun for them but I've never used it. Home Depot had some latge electrical staples with plastic wire protection. A former installer calles them blue U nails.

Ok, pipe strap is out. Can I use the nylon tie-wraps with mounting screw holes as rough in brackets at speaker locations as well as to secure the cabling every 4 feet? Will they extend 18" or so needed between ceiling joists?

If so, where can I pick these up?

Thanks...RN

On second thought, I'll use the plastic staples for securing the cables every 4 feet. However, I do need a good alternative to use for the speaker rough in brackets.

Thanks...RN

I do all of my work in Suffolk and Nassau counties, and low voltage wiring does not get inspected. Just follow all the tips given as how to do the job like a professional and you shouldn't have any problems.

Home Depot. The crackup is that here in Southern California, the 8" ties with screw mounts are cheaper than the 8" ties without them. I just buy the screw mount type and clip off the mount if needed.

I didn't get that bit about 18" and the joists.

I think that he was trying to use the straps across the bottom of the joists as a support, like the metal rods used to hold fiberglass insulation in place in a crawl space.