This came from a private message. I hope I'm not stepping on the sender's toes by making this public.

I'm a great believer in sharing all of the things we struggle with, because while you're learning something to get out of a problem, others can read along and avoid ever having the problem themselves.


That said, let me start with a hint -- the IR device you link to won't do what you need because it turns power on and off.

If you plug the lift into that, then switch it with the IR remote, the action you get will be the same as alternately plugging in and unplugging the power to the lift. The lift is meant to be plugged in all the time, and then signals go somewhere else to make it raise and lower. See, the motor is used to raise the lift, so the lift must have power. Then the motor is used to lower the lift, so the lift must have power.

Also, it helps our discussion to know whether this lifts a display up so it can be seen, or lowers something out of the ceiling. Either way, it's called a lift, but the descriptions can be more accurate if we know whether, when it's put away, it's up. Or down.

Please tell us the brand and model of lift. Someone may have an exact answer for that particular model, but we won't know until we know what model it is.

Hey is the make of the lift

BEKLAND PLASMA LCD FLAT PANEL TV TELEVISION LIFT MOUNT

It is built into a cabinet that when the activated comes out . So what if i took the power cable plug for the lift ,cut it off and hard wired the lift to the Ir power switch .I that would not work then what other options would you recommend

Before you cut power cables, try this trick.

Plug the cord into the wall. Does the unit go up? Unplug the unit from the wall. Does the unit go down?

Unless that happens, cutting the cord will not help. The cord needs to be plugged in so that whatever switches engage the motors are doing the motor can operate the lift.

Fred said what I was trying to say.

I think you need someone professional to sort this out, or you need to at least contact the company that made it and get a schematic. It's not that it's that complicated for us installers; it's just that doing the wrong thing won't help and might blow it.

Anybody in North Carolina who could lend a hand?

I tired what Fred said and did not work. I have contacted the company multiple times about it and the are not helpful at all. You're right i don't want to destroy it , but i would really like to solve this one. I know longer reside in NC I'm in NY now. I'm military so i move a lot.

I just checked into them and it looks like they offer 2 models, the LT 870 or LT 960. Is this what you're referring to? http://www.bekland.com

If so, have a close look at the control ports at the base of the unit. It seems that it has a DB-9 for serial control but that's somewhat of an advanced setup.

The white port that you see on the unit may very well take simple dry contact closures to send the unit up/down and stop. Then again there could be voltage, so I'd be VERY CAREFUL to test for voltage first!

If there is ........NO VOLTAGE.......you should be able to use something like a Xantech CC-12 to send the closures to operate the lift.

[Link: smarthome.com]

I'd contact the lift manufacturer and ask if they can send you a manual or schematics.

yea in have done that more than once . I have the LT 960 and they are not helpful at all. Most of the time i get hung up on. The manual does not talk about any of the stuff you mentioned, what you see on there website is duplicated in there manual

Also the white port that you speake of is for an external swith to raise and lower the lift. I guess you would use it if you lost your remote

What we installers would do is to determine which two terminals in that port must be connected together, or must have a voltage applied to them, to raise or lower the lift.

(The reason I said it's important to know whether raised or lowered is the "put away" mode is so that the description makes sense.)

That is, apply a voltage (or connect together) the right two wires, when the thing is plugged into the wall, and the lift should come out of its housing. Disconnect those wires and it goes back in.

After we determined that, we'd get something like the Xantech CC12 IR-controlled switch, and program the CLOSE and OPEN codes into the remote control. The MX980 is ideal for this.
That's why we keep coming back to this port as your answer -- we provide the external switch.

By the way, I've sent a strongly worded message to the parent company of these jokers, indicating that their company is being bashed on an international forum, and that they deserve it. Help might actually be on the way.

Thanks Ernie

well to answer you question, lowered is the "put away mode" . now when you explain this to me please take into consideration that i work on this a mini hobby ,so i may ask for better understanding of instructions .

The real question is how do you find a switch that supports 110vac and 10amps yet is described with a wattage number when it clearly is disconnecting a motor and should at the very least be represented in volt-amps. I would have a difficult time specing this device for any tv as inrush on the tv and the motor pushing the lift could crater the wave form enough to destroy the switch and tv at the same time.

Hey man I did not understand half of the stuff you wrote , please explain. And can some one tell me how the Xantech cc12 would work for this setup and how do I do it.

Where are you in New York? This is very difficult to communicate by written word, not so hard if someone is standing in front of you. I bet we can get someone out there!

The Beckland site says it comes with a manual switch. How is this switch operated and what is it attached to? For example, is it attached to a wire that plugs into the white terminals next to the power connection on the control box at the bottom of the unit.

schlepp571, i didn't understand you either. What you wrote, mistakes aside, reads like to are trying to baffle someone.

Following up on what simon just said,


After rereading your post, I have to agree with you.