You can get around this by activating the recievers at another location and then hooking them up at the customers home. I think there is a force you can do by punching in 2-4-6-8 at start up.

We ran 1120" of RG11 from the dish to the receiver using SWM at the old office and never had a problem. Luck? Maybe.
But it worked.

I am thinking I am going to run RG11 burial grade. I assume it terminates with compression ends.

The Commscope version I linked to is indeed direct burial: [Link: awapps.commscope.com]

Thanks Amirm.

How wide is the driveway? And how much room do you have on either side of it? I've "burrowed" under driveways using water and pipe, but you need to get below the stone under the driveway bed so you need room on at least one side to lay about a 10 ft pipe on the ground and get a water hose attached to it. To stay level under the driveway you need a trench deep enough to get the pipe laying pretty level at an elevation that's below the stone base below the pavement. If you have good water pressure you can actually push the pipe under the driveway.

My longest run doing this is only about 20 ft so if it's a REALLY wide paved area, this probably won't work.

It's messy, to be sure, but if you have the room and some time, it beats having to saw-cut the pavement, trench across, and then patch it.

Sidewalks are a BREEZE using this method. Also depends on soil conditions, obviously, but it's a valid approach and works quite often.

Yardbird,

Driveway is about 10 feet wide.

This method works, but it seems a bit shaky. You have to get under the rock, meaning that you're creating a void for the rock to fall into, eventually. I'd not recommend this for asphalt in a warm climate. Its use under concrete probably isn't good, although you don't weaken a sidewalk -- which does not support vehicles, anyway -- enough to cause breakage.

Not shaky at all. LEAVE THE PIPE in the tunnel. The slurry created by the water eroding the soil actually fills in quite nicely around the pipe. I have removed concrete sections where this was done below and we excavated to the pipe to examine. It was completely encased in soil, no void above.

I know how it sounds, Ernie, but this one I've done several times and it's a very viable method showing no ill effects afterward.

a 10ft driveway is relatively easy... again... depending on soil conditions. If you hit a big enough rock, you're pretty much done, but you can pull back and start over a foot or so away. Small rocks will dislodge in the water jet and move.

Cleanest result is achieved by pushing (for example) an inch-and-a-half pipe using a 3/4in pipe inside of it. The 3/4in pipe is your water jet, and the 1-1/2 is your casing. Most of the water will return between the pipes this way and leaves less chance of any void. You could resize those dimensions as needed. Outer pipe could be 1 inch and inner pipe as small as 3/8 as long as you can get enough water pressure through it. At 10 ft your pressure drop isn't too bad. If you try to go too small, you can get enough deflection that the exit location may be way off.

For a driveway I usually do the pipe-in-a-pipe method. For sidewalks I've never needed more than a single pipe.