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Topic:
Retro install question
This thread has 15 replies. Displaying all posts.
Post 1 made on Saturday January 10, 2004 at 16:45
Joe Noonan
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Starting new install and i'm going to be swapping out single gang volume controls for new dual gang keypads. House in new construction and VC's were put in full blue single gang box. What is the best method to get these out? Best tools for job? New dual gang pads mount right to drywall cut out with no need for a box(just a bracket). So the box will be in the way.

Any adviced appreciated.

Joe
Post 2 made on Saturday January 10, 2004 at 18:59
Tony Golden
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You can either take a dremel and cut up the box from the inside, or (preferrably) slide a hacksaw blade between the sheetrock and box edge, and cut through the plastic slots holding the nails.
Post 3 made on Saturday January 10, 2004 at 20:04
deb1919
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344
I usually cut the new hole first, then pry the box sideways with a prybar or large slotted screwdriver. Once it's 3/4" off the stud, you can use the cutting part of your lineman's pliers to grab & pry each nail out using the stud as leverage.

As you might have guessed, I did 10 of these last week.

- Doug
Post 4 made on Saturday January 10, 2004 at 20:24
Larry Fine
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I usually do a sort of combination of the above; I cut the new opening, pry the box just 1/8 of an inch or so, then use a sawzall with metal blade to cut through the nails. It's faster than anything else.

If the pads use two-gang screw spacing, you can get two-gang low-voltage (backless) old-work "boxes". The most important thing is to tag the wires as you disconnect them if needed for re-use.

Larry
www.fineelectricco.com
Post 5 made on Saturday January 10, 2004 at 21:29
jwalkup
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I use Larry's method without the sawzall, I use a mini hacksaw.

John
Post 6 made on Saturday January 10, 2004 at 23:53
RTI Installer
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I do what Larry does, if there are a bunch of boxes, I use the sawsall, if its just one box, I use the hand held mini hacksaw. Home depot sells something called a "Low Voltage Mounting Device " made by Arlington Industries. They are just a thin black single or 2-gang ring with flip toggles. These rings are by far the best-constructed and easiest to install LV mounting option. [Link: aifittings.com]
Never Ignore the Obvious -- H. David Gray
OP | Post 7 made on Sunday January 11, 2004 at 01:10
Joe Noonan
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Thanks so much for the quick replies guys! Great tips and advice too.

I figured on using the hack saw method...Might try Larry's sawzall method.

Thanks again all. What a great forum!

Joe
Post 8 made on Sunday January 11, 2004 at 12:54
vts1134
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RTI installer is right on. Those rings are perfect and I use them every day, never had a problem except for an occasional wall that is too deep for them.
Post 9 made on Sunday January 11, 2004 at 22:02
rhm9
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And then you can use a longer screw and you're fine...

Home Depot has dropped them though and replaced them with much more expensive Carlon ones. I called Arlington and they don't sell directly to anyone. Our local Stoneway electric is the source now. Anyone know of an internet clearing house for these?

The funny thing is that I "invented" these back in the early 90's but like a lot of people with a good idea... did nothing about it and let someone else that was smarter bring it out (actually I'm sure they were out LONG before my "idea".

We affectionately term what you did a "boxectomy"
Post 10 made on Sunday January 11, 2004 at 23:24
mikeintx
Long Time Member
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If you're in the business, the Arlington LV-1 (one gang) and LV-2 (guess) are available from ECD distributors. I know they're in Houston, but not sure where else. Great products, and much cheaper than Carlon. www.goecd.com


Mike
Post 11 made on Monday January 12, 2004 at 04:10
Ernie Bornn-Gilman
Yes, That Ernie!
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On 01/10/04 23:53, RTI Installer said...
Home depot sells
something called a "Low Voltage Mounting Device
" made by Arlington Industries. They are just
a thin black single or 2-gang ring with flip toggles.
These rings are by far the best-constructed and
easiest to install LV mounting option. [Link: aifittings.com]

These have always looked like a great idea, but how do you get them to sit flush, especially on plaster, so the cover plate actually touches the wall? When I try these, they always leave the plate almost 1/16" off the wall and it looks wrong.
A good answer is easier with a clear question giving the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw
Post 12 made on Monday January 12, 2004 at 08:33
rhm9
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The 1G Arlingtons are nice and flush... it's the 2Gs that have the problem you mention. I just nick the drywall or plaster enough to sink the ring in... a bit of extra work but aesthetics are always key.
Post 13 made on Monday January 12, 2004 at 09:29
Shoe
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Electronic Custom Distributors is a great resource that supports professionals and their web address is www.ecdcom.com. Ask for Robbie, he's a great help.
And I don't own it, I'm just a happy customer
Post 14 made on Monday January 12, 2004 at 09:34
mikeintx
Long Time Member
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February 2003
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Shoe,

Thanks for your reply. It made me realize that I posted ECD's website incorrectly. That was CSC that I was thinking of. Sorry for any confusion!!!
Post 15 made on Tuesday January 13, 2004 at 01:28
SierraHT
Long Time Member
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November 2003
26
To remove them have done the sawsall method. Also in a pinch you could pry the box away from the stud a little and then cut the nails with your diagonal cutters.

To get the retro rings to set flush I install the ring as a template and score the sheetrock with my blade. Then I remove the ring and remove the paper from the sheetrock. Reinstall the ring.
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