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Topic:
Motor to open cabinet door
This thread has 31 replies. Displaying posts 1 through 15.
Post 1 made on Saturday August 29, 2009 at 16:29
McSmarty
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I am looking for a motor to open a cabinet door that has a sub inside. I have 12volt trigger via pronto so would like to trigger it to open with remote. Does anyone know what I would need or where to get it?

Regards
Post 2 made on Saturday August 29, 2009 at 16:42
AnthonyZ
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I would look at building something based on a wiper motor (DC) and gears or use a linear actuator. They're both available all over the internet.
"Just when I thought that I was out they pull me back in"
Post 3 made on Saturday August 29, 2009 at 17:19
proaudio95
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i agree with the linear actuator. look for the ones used in automotive industry to do things like lift toneau covers and move amp racks. i used them alot when years ago when i was doing mobile a/v and they work great. most are very quiet to. look for the ones promoted by "The Fishman". you may be able to find some other cool solutions during that search also.

good luck
steven
Steven Brawner
ISF, HAA, Lutron, CEDIA certified
ProAudio GA www.ProAudioGA.com
OP | Post 4 made on Saturday August 29, 2009 at 18:56
McSmarty
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If I buy

[Link: firgelliauto.com]

and attach the mounting bracket to the hinged side of the door will that work. What happens if you try to open the door manually? Will the linear actuator let you? Does it both open and close the door with 12v trigger?

Thanks for all the help!
Post 5 made on Saturday August 29, 2009 at 19:26
kgossen
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On August 29, 2009 at 18:56, McSmarty said...
If I buy

[Link: firgelliauto.com]

and attach the mounting bracket to the hinged side of the door will that work. What happens if you try to open the door manually? Will the linear actuator let you? Does it both open and close the door with 12v trigger?

Thanks for all the help!

Normally no, you can't manually open the door. The actuator is very strong and won't move. It works on reversing polarity, one way pushes out, flip polarity and it now pulls in. You will need either a timer or micro switch to stop it and a pair of relays to reverse the polarity and of course a 12v power supply. It will keep moving as long as power is applied until it reaches it's maximum length or until you stop it. How hard the door is to open will determine current needed. Don't buy anything with "fishman" on it unless you like paying 3 times what you should.
"Quality isn't expensive, it's Priceless!"
Post 6 made on Saturday August 29, 2009 at 22:27
GerryA51
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Measure out your throw distance from your hinge point, and order one with built in limit switches. external limit switches can be a headache and create extra wiring. Two companys that I dealt with in my car audio days for actuators were Accelle electronics, and select products. Ditto on the fishman actuators being overpriced.

What are you using for a 12v trigger? Do you have control over how long it stays active? What is the amp output of it? Let me know because you may be able to get away with two bosch relays and your trigger.
Quality over quanity, that's how I make my mistakes....
Post 7 made on Sunday August 30, 2009 at 00:01
audioslayve
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No need for timers. Most all actuators are sensitive to resistance. When it stops due to a resistance, it can go no further until dc current is relieved then reapplied, or another dc current the opposite polarity with reverse the mechanism the opposite direction. Most actuators strength is measured in lbs. For a cabinet door application, try looking for an actuator with a minimal lb rating. Probly only need one with a 2" throw. Very small actuator is needed for this app.

Last edited by audioslayve on August 30, 2009 00:15.
The optimist claims the glass is half full; the pessimist claims it is half empty. An engineer observes that the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.

Ps, you can't fix stupid
Post 8 made on Sunday August 30, 2009 at 00:17
GerryA51
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Sorry but that is not an acurate statement. Most linear actuators will go untill you tell them to stop. The ones he linked to will do just that. hook it up without limits and it will rip the door off. The timer would be needed if he can only supply a 12v pulse. I did car audio for 17yr and did a ton of motorization. plan this out from start to finish or it will be a disaster.
Quality over quanity, that's how I make my mistakes....
Post 9 made on Sunday August 30, 2009 at 01:39
audioslayve
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What is "acurate"? You must mean accurate. If that were the case, then if pushed past it's max lb rating, the motor would short out, causing whatever power source to short as well. They are designed to stop, if said DC's resistance comes to a near dead short.




If he used say a 100 lb actuator, then yeah the door would crumble

Last edited by audioslayve on August 30, 2009 01:55.
The optimist claims the glass is half full; the pessimist claims it is half empty. An engineer observes that the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.

Ps, you can't fix stupid
OP | Post 10 made on Sunday August 30, 2009 at 03:14
McSmarty
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I have Philips Pronto with 12v trigger. I was hoping to trigger it with Pronto when I turn on my stereo and then when I shut it off have the trigger close the cabinet. Other than the actual actuator I don't know what else I need to accomplish this.

On August 29, 2009 at 22:27, GerryA51 said...
Measure out your throw distance from your hinge point, and order one with built in limit switches. external limit switches can be a headache and create extra wiring. Two companys that I dealt with in my car audio days for actuators were Accelle electronics, and select products. Ditto on the fishman actuators being overpriced.

What are you using for a 12v trigger? Do you have control over how long it stays active? What is the amp output of it? Let me know because you may be able to get away with two bosch relays and your trigger.
Post 11 made on Sunday August 30, 2009 at 06:08
Ernie Bornn-Gilman
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On August 30, 2009 at 01:39, audioslayve said...
What is "acurate"? You must mean accurate. If that were the case, then if pushed past it's max lb rating, the motor would short out, causing whatever power source to short as well. They are designed to stop, if said DC's resistance comes to a near dead short.

Irregardless,

The ones I've seen will be ruined if there are no stop switches. They'll continue to draw current, at heavy load because the motor can't move, and eventually burn out.

Look also at boat supply places. I've seen linear actuators with 6" and 12" throws for raising vent lids in boats. The guy selling the last one said he thought it required five amps, which I found hard to believe, and it needed something like 150 mA. So get it and try it. I still haven't used the parts I bought for that five amp power supply.
We can't give you a good answer, or maybe any, without the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw
Post 12 made on Sunday August 30, 2009 at 12:43
Hasbeen
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On August 30, 2009 at 06:08, Ernie Bornn-Gilman said...
Irregardless,

Ernie, I expect more from you...Did you really just drop a "irregardless"?  LOL
That would be a better solution. But the client's two sons disagree. And they know more than me because they work in finance. -Fins 2013.
Post 13 made on Sunday August 30, 2009 at 12:54
smokinghot
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On August 30, 2009 at 12:43, Hasbeen said...
Ernie, I expect more from you...Did you really just drop a "irregardless"?  LOL

lol... I noticed that a well, but didn't want to unleash the fury that is a Ernie rebuttal.
....Light travels faster than sound. That's why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
Post 14 made on Sunday August 30, 2009 at 12:59
JGB
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From M-W.com


irregardless
One entry found.
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Main Entry: ir·re·gard·less
Pronunciation: \ˌir-i-ˈgärd-ləs\
Function: adverb
Etymology: probably blend of irrespective and regardless
Date: circa 1912
nonstandard : regardless

usage Irregardless originated in dialectal American speech in the early 20th century. Its fairly widespread use in speech called it to the attention of usage commentators as early as 1927. The most frequently repeated remark about it is that “there is no such word.” There is such a word, however. It is still used primarily in speech, although it can be found from time to time in edited prose. Its reputation has not risen over the years, and it is still a long way from general acceptance. Use regardless instead.
Post 15 made on Sunday August 30, 2009 at 13:06
smokinghot
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Taken from: Dictionary.com

ir·re·gard·less (ĭr'ĭ-gärd'lĭs)
adv. Nonstandard
Regardless.

Usage Note: Irregardless is a word that many mistakenly believe to be correct usage in formal style, when in fact it is used chiefly in nonstandard speech or casual writing. Coined in the United States in the early 20th century, it has met with a blizzard of condemnation for being an improper yoking of irrespective and regardless and for the logical absurdity of combining the negative ir- prefix and -less suffix in a single term. Although one might reasonably argue that it is no different from words with redundant affixes like debone and unravel, it has been considered a blunder for decades and will probably continue to be so.
....Light travels faster than sound. That's why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
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