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This thread has 21 replies. Displaying posts 16 through 22.
Post 16 made on Thursday April 24, 2008 at 19:26
charris
Advanced Member
Joined:
Posts:
March 2006
840
On April 24, 2008 at 11:44, AnthonyZ said...
GFood stuff, fellas. Keep it coming...

Ok, then I will. We are in the process of a big Homeworks and a big Vantage system so I can write down some of my thoughts here:

There is no way the first lighting quotation to be exact. We have never managed to do this. Even in very small apartment system changes will be made. Let your customers know about this. We are almost always correct with the keypads though. When designing a system include enough keypads so that there are buttons available for electric motors if the clients decide to finally use the provisions and install electric curtains or blinds. Blinds or curtains are usually one addition which can change the price of the system significantly and the clients usually decide to add them towards the end of the project. But of course let them know and convince them to install the necessary provisions.

When doing a system design and quotation it is very important to identify the loads and what kind of modules they require. We specify dimmer modules for all dimmable fixtures except some areas that they do not really need them like garages e.t.c. Fluorescent fixtures are also a big subject. You should always dim the fluorescents that are in places that require dimming e.g living room, dining room. We usually do not dim the fluorescents in kitchens. There are three ways to dim a fluorescent: 0-10V, DSI and Dali. The most common method in my country is 0-10V but also Dali is becoming popular. You should inform the owner or the lighting designer (sometimes they specify dim fluo but no nothing technical about them) that he will need to purchase dimmable fluorescents with 0-10 ballasts. You will also require the necessary interface in your lighting system to dim these fixtures. We will also need control cable to run to the fixture. Fluorescent load is calculated according to the lenght of the fluorescent. The most common sizes we find in houses are 4 or 5 or 6 feet. Be very careful with your fluorescent calculations since it is very easy to do a mistake in the quotation and system design.

Another problem we find at the initial stages is when the interior or lighting designers specify on the plan "hidden lighting" but gives no specific details of what they are going to use. The are various types of lighting robe and they very greatly in the number of watts per meter. Also some are dimmable and some not. There are LED types (generally not dimmable but very strangely we have managed to dim one and it works perfectly for over a year now), incandescent, low voltage, xenon and a few others. Try to go for the maximum watts per meter when you do not know what is going to be used.

LEDs and RGB DMX controlled fixtues are also very popular in high-end homes and they also need special considerations and precautions to get the system design and the quotation correct. I have to go now but I will try and describe what we do about them in a later post.

Last edited by charris on April 30, 2008 12:39.
Post 17 made on Wednesday April 30, 2008 at 12:37
charris
Advanced Member
Joined:
Posts:
March 2006
840
I think some of the experienced integrators that do lighting control should contribute a bit to this thread. There is a some good information so far and I am sure we can all learn more form each other experiences. I will contribute more a bit later.
Post 18 made on Wednesday April 30, 2008 at 13:08
AnthonyZ
Select Member
Joined:
Posts:
September 2005
1,987
On April 30, 2008 at 12:37, charris said...
I think some of the experienced integrators that do lighting
control should contribute a bit to this thread. There
is a some good information so far and I am sure we can
all learn more form each other experiences. I will contribute
more a bit later.

Agreed. I'm in the process of "upgrading" my options. I've played with a number of systems (Homeworks wireless and Vantage Q-Link included) and done TONS of UPB but, I'm looking to relegate the UPB to suburban and price concious gigs and push further up. With that said, I'm in the process of dropping 30 loads of RA, a couple repeaters, a couple masters and a couple of RA-RS232 units into my own home and getting super familiar with it as I also look to get certified in Homeworks. I appreciate any and all insight available.
"Just when I thought that I was out they pull me back in"
Post 19 made on Wednesday April 30, 2008 at 18:58
charris
Advanced Member
Joined:
Posts:
March 2006
840
Ok, here are some pictures from the Vantage Infusion installation we will be working on in the next few weeks. This is the Ground Floor Panel. We still have some work on the panel. Some low voltage wiring, cable-modules-terminal points and breakers labelling and other small details.


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The panel is quite big. 1.2x0.8m. It is also very very heavy.


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Inside the panel we have the isolator, the breakers, terminal points, the Vantage Controler and 2 Low Voltage modules. On the door of the panel are the relay and dimmer modules


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Whole panel view.

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Last edited by charris on April 30, 2008 19:32.
Post 20 made on Monday January 31, 2011 at 17:51
rcasey
Lurking Member
Joined:
Posts:
September 2008
2
Could some of the more experienced Lighting guys recommend some good practices for keypad buttons and layouts? I've read through some other posts, where some users briefly touch on some idea such as consistency is really the most important.

For example- I'd like to keep buttons to a minimum. In a smaller room, lets say a guest bath room with 2 circuits for lighting plus a fan, would you guys just have one button plus a raise/lower? Or would you offer independent control of the two lights? It seems to me over the top- but then should I expect the client to call back asking why they cant adjust the vanity and not the downlights?!?

Does anyone else have any suggestions?

ps this is an out-of-town job, so I need to minimize service calls


Post 21 made on Monday January 31, 2011 at 18:09
39 Cent Stamp
Elite Member
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Posts:
May 2007
17,519
This would cover everything in that room. Top is on bottom is off so no fumbling to find the button. These will be used most of the time. The others are there if you need them.

Button 1 Lights ON
Button 2 Ceiling (on or off toggle plus raise and lower)
Button 3 Vanity (on or off toggle plus raise and lower)
Button 4 Fan (on or off)
Button 5 Lights Off

But what happens in the kitchen where you have 10 loads? I like keypads to be like this.

Button 1 High
Button 2 Medium
Button 3 Low
Button 4 Lamp (extra buttons)
Button 5 Fan (extra buttons)
Button 6 Off

Off is obviously off. High Medium Low are scenes. You can name these whatever you want. High Medium Low makes sense to people. The extra buttons are for things like specific reading lamps or maybe a ceiling fan or a path from the garage to the house. Anything that doesn't fit with high med low but they would use frequently.

You can put control over every load on their touchpanel or use the iPhone/iPad app for the rare occasion that they need it. Or put it on your control system panel (crestron amx etc).

Most people walk into a room and want to hit 1 button to turn lights on and 1 to turn lights off. Use scenes for controlling multiple loads at once and give them the ability to raise and lower "main" lights from the keypad and everything from a touchpanel, tablet or PC.
Avid Stamp Collector - I really love 39 Cent Stamps
Post 22 made on Monday January 31, 2011 at 18:57
Fiasco
Senior Member
Joined:
Posts:
July 2009
1,283
In a room where there is only one or two circuits I use a dimmer/switch.

Keypads are for rooms with multiple circuits or main points of traffic where a keypad would make sense.

In locations with multiple circuits and a logical point for scene selection I like to use two keypads and keep the individual load buttons and scene buttons seperate

On January 31, 2011 at 17:51, rcasey said...
Could some of the more experienced Lighting guys recommend some good practices for keypad buttons and layouts? I've read through some other posts, where some users briefly touch on some idea such as consistency is really the most important.

For example- I'd like to keep buttons to a minimum. In a smaller room, lets say a guest bath room with 2 circuits for lighting plus a fan, would you guys just have one button plus a raise/lower? Or would you offer independent control of the two lights? It seems to me over the top- but then should I expect the client to call back asking why they cant adjust the vanity and not the downlights?!?

Does anyone else have any suggestions?

ps this is an out-of-town job, so I need to minimize service calls


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