Trying to replace a standard Stewart wallswitch that came with a Luxus Electriscreen with an IR remote system. Any of you distribute the Stewart system (LV control box, sensor, & switch) for this? What other slick alternatives are in common use? The goal is to be able to use a Pronto for control. I was thinking maybe an IR controlled AC switch of some sort. I want it separate from the audio system, so triggers not a factor.

Not familiar off hand with the Stewart wall control... could look it up tomorrow... But.... If its a Low Voltage trigger discused as a wall switch, then a Xantech CC12 would be able to easily replace the manual switch.

The Stewart wall switch is line voltage. The low voltage interface is the way to go. Many, if not most, video projectors have a dc trigger out. If yours does, you don't need a remote. The screen will come down when the projector is on, and up if its not.


jcmitch

I use the Stewart remote system because my Sharp DLP does not have a 12V trigger on it. The remote works fine, albeit expensive. On a side note, I am not able to learn these codes into the new Pronto 3000. It won't take directly or imported from a ccf.

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Here's the explanation:
"The 12 volts stays on as long as is needed in case we have to run an external fan to cool the projector. We are saving you money by using that voltage. The only price you pay is having the screen down two minutes longer than necessary."

Be careful with your pricing if you have not already used a particular model to lower the screen. I had to install a customer-supplied Marantz projector, and the 12 volts dropped to about 2.5 when I hooked it up to the Stewart 12 volt trigger circuit. I had to charge extra to build a transistor switch that could lower the screen when the projector put out only about 3 mA of current (the screen required something like 60 mA).

The CC-12 is a low voltage, switch, and you don't have Stewart's 12 volts down/zero volts up circuit, if I read you right. This complicates things quite a bit, because you have to supply 120 volts to the motor to bring it down, then 120 volts to the motor -- on different wires -- to raise it again.

Price the Stewart 12 volt control circuit. If you get that, then the CC12 can be used to respond to an IR signal; or you could use a trigger output if it is there.