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EXTENDING SPEAKER WIRE
This thread has 9 replies. Displaying all posts.
Post 1 made on Sunday February 17, 2002 at 13:33
ECHOSLOB
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I am moving some equipment and I can't replace some speaker wire as it is tie wrapped in the walls I can only extend it.It is Monster type copper cable. Do you guys use solder and heat shrink or butt connectors or possibly something else I am not aware of?
Post 2 made on Sunday February 17, 2002 at 13:47
avdude
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Solder is the best, it maintains the most integrity from a-b-c, and is DEFINITELY the best way to go if you won't be able to get to your splices down the road. A well crimped butt-splice would be #2, and a good wire-nut w/sealant would be #3, but again, if you're in any doubt....solder it!
AVDUDE
"It might work better if it were plugged in and programmed first...just a thought!"
Post 3 made on Sunday February 17, 2002 at 13:57
Larry Fine
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Just one word of warning: Remember to put the heat-shrink tubing on each conductor before soldering!

Also, don't forget to separate the wires enough to slide the heat-shrink up each conductor that the heat of soldering won't cause premature shrinkage. I also recommend staggering the connections, and using an additional piece of heat-shrink over the entire splice.

Larry
www.fineelectricco.com
Post 4 made on Sunday February 17, 2002 at 19:11
Matt
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yes...definatly stagger them AND overall shrink.
Post 5 made on Sunday February 17, 2002 at 19:43
David Dryden
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This is minor detail, but if you don't, it'll mess you up... When you use heat-shrink and solder, be sure to move the heat-shrink tubing far enough away from your joint while soldering or the heat will shrink your tubing and you'll have to start all over again! Been there, done that! :(

David
OP | Post 6 made on Sunday February 17, 2002 at 21:09
ECHOSLOB
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hehehe I am only a newbie with my Pronto. Soldering is not a problem. I have made all the same mistakes like trying to figure out how I am going to get that heat shrink on after I ihave soldered both sides. lol Burning the heat shrink with the iron hehehe too many times. I can solder little 8 pin soics by hand so not to worry about some Monster wire. I will also stagger the joints as suggested. Why is that though? I have never heard of that? Is it to avoid possible crosstalk so to speak or in case a tear should occur in the heat shrink it would touch the other wire?
Post 7 made on Sunday February 17, 2002 at 23:25
Larry Fine
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The last reason is why, plus the overall splice tends to bulge less. Years ago, when adding high-rise handlebars to my '73 Honda 750, which had the wiring to the switch pods at each handgrip threaded within the handlebar, I used the exact same method to extend the wires.

The staggering was mandantory, or I never would have gotten the wires threaded through the holes. (Pregnant snakes can get wedged in tight spaces.) All of the splices ended up being contained within the bars. They were probably staggered about one inch apart.

I've use a heat gun or a butane lighter to shrink tubing (moving the flame constantly), but I've never tried an iron. I would think that only shrinking where there is direct contact would result in uneven shrinkage, and indeed contribute to damage.

David, didn't I say that?

Larry
www.fineelectricco.com
OP | Post 8 made on Monday February 18, 2002 at 01:47
ECHOSLOB
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The shrinking by iron was not intentional. I would file that more under user error :)
OP | Post 9 made on Monday February 18, 2002 at 11:20
ECHOSLOB
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One more thing. I am going to use banana jack wall plates. Is there jumpers with banana plugs on both ends? Or would you guys use banana's on the jack side and spades, or bare wires on the receiver side? I thought I could just plug the banana's into the Pioneer it would be easier?
Post 10 made on Monday February 18, 2002 at 12:39
Larry Fine
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I'm sure you can get wires with bananas on both ends. Most people here would probably make their own, though. I would.

Larry
www.fineelectricco.com


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