Your Universal Remote Control Center
RemoteCentral.com
Custom Installers' Lounge Forum - View Post
Previous section Next section Up level
Up level
The following page was printed from RemoteCentral.com:

Login:
Pass:
 
 

Topic:
Downfiring subwoofer--ever tried to place one in an existing cabinet?
This thread has 11 replies. Displaying all posts.
Post 1 made on Saturday March 22, 2003 at 13:26
Terry S
Long Time Member
Joined:
Posts:
August 2002
45
I have a client who has an existing old steamer's trunk-type cabinet. They asked me to put the subwoofer inside of it. It has small legs and the bottom of the trunk is about 2 inches from the carpeted floor. I thought we might be able to cut out the bottom of the trunk and set a downfiring subwoofer on the carpet and then set the trunk over the subwoofer. Does any anybody have any thoughts or experiences with this type of install??

Thanks in advance for your help.....Terry
Post 2 made on Saturday March 22, 2003 at 18:11
Tom Ciaramitaro
Loyal Member
Joined:
Posts:
May 2002
7,958
It could work but get ready for a lot of buzzing...I doubt you can keep that thing quiet.
=Tom
There is no truth anymore. Only assertions. The internet world has no interest in truth, only vindication for preconceived assumptions.
Post 3 made on Sunday March 23, 2003 at 07:29
avdude
Founding Member
Joined:
Posts:
February 2002
814
Terry,

I would agree with Tom on this one...It wold work, but it will make it's own music ffrom every hinge, latch, stap, etc...It's kinda like putting monster subs in the trunks of cars....it works but it takes a long time to stop all the little vibartions that result. We put one in a bench at the front of customers multi-puripose room once, a Velodyne HGS-12. We heavliy modified the bottom of the bench to vent the sound, but we ended up having to velcro the lid down, and use that paint on rubber crap you'd use to replace worn handles on tools, so silence the hinges...it was a money losing pain....
AVDUDE
"It might work better if it were plugged in and programmed first...just a thought!"
Post 4 made on Sunday March 23, 2003 at 11:46
McNasty
Founding Member
Joined:
Posts:
January 2002
1,322
We have put downward firing subs in a LOT of cabinets. We always find the buzz and eliminate it. And we always make sure it is vented out the front kickplate. It never sounds as nice as a sub out in the room, but 90% of our clients want them in the cabinet.
Post 5 made on Sunday March 23, 2003 at 13:47
QQQ
Super Member
Joined:
Posts:
January 2002
4,806
Not only is there no reason it won't work, there is not much likelihood you will have any more buzzes or rattles versus not putting it in the cabinet two feet away.

The key however, is to cut out the bottom of the cabinet (as you already plan on doing), or you will establish a very boomy resonance with the cabinet. You will be just fine. We place subwoofers inside of cabinets in multi-purpose rooms ALL the time.
Post 6 made on Sunday March 23, 2003 at 18:20
Ernie Bornn-Gilman
Yes, That Ernie!
Joined:
Posts:
December 2001
30,104
Wait a minute. The trunk will be on the floor, with no place for the sound to come out of?

I was about to offer a couple of details when I realized that this should work REAL BAD unless the trunk itself is off the floor.

So let's say you lift the trunk off the floor a couple of inches, then my comments are worth writing. But if the trunk is down on the carpet, it won't make much difference whether you cut a hole in the bottom of the trunk at all. You'll just have a subwoofer inside a trunk, with no place for the sound to come out.

now, back to my comments --

I think QQQ's comment is good, but let me be a little more picky about what I think he means.

Don't cut a hole in the trunk big enough for the entire subwoofer cabinet, feet and all, to go through, and set the sub on the floor.

Cut a hole in the bottom of the trunk big enough so that you (this is where I realized the trunk is on the floor) can take the feet of the subwoofer and place it directly on the hole in the trunk. The trunk will have to be off the floor at least as far as the sub's feet put it so that sound can come out of it, otherwise you will just have a subwoofer in a box.

I have also placed subs in cabinets, with the woofer facing down and the sound coming out of the kick space. A single-piece A/C grille, that won't buzz because it is only one piece, covers the sound outlet.
A good answer is easier with a clear question giving the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw
Post 7 made on Sunday March 23, 2003 at 18:43
avdude
Founding Member
Joined:
Posts:
February 2002
814
Lemme' clarify what my thoughts here were a little bit:

1) the steamer trunk has small feet on it, as mentioned in the post, but I agree with Ernie here, 2 inch feet, on a carpeted floor, will leave about 1" of airspace, and major sound damping...cranking the sub should make up for some of this but, that brings me to my second train of thought from the above post...

2) don't most steamer trunks have old leather straps, buckles, hasps and the like on them? I am of course assuming this is a real steamer trunk, and an older one. IF this is the case, then how would you stop all these little things from vibrating. It just didn't sound to me like this was a regular cabinet of sorts, which I, as well, have placed NUMEROUS subwoofers in with only minimal vibrations and they were easily fixed.
AVDUDE
"It might work better if it were plugged in and programmed first...just a thought!"
Post 8 made on Sunday March 23, 2003 at 20:41
QQQ
Super Member
Joined:
Posts:
January 2002
4,806
Ernie:

He stated that there are legs, which raise the trunk up 2” off the floor. That’s pretty close to the distance most downward firing subwoofers sit off of the floor.

avdude:

*IF* the buckles, hinges etc. are going to rattle, they are about as likely to do as if the trunk was in other areas of the room that had strong bass response. There is nothing special about the fact that it will be right on top of the subwoofer. Bass response can vary by more than 15 dB with numerous peaks and nulls throughout the room.

Keep in mind that the subwoofer will not be touching the trunk at any point. And if he has any rattles, he should be able to easily solve them. Any trunk hinge etc. could easily be dealt with (using rubber, tape etc.). The rattles that are much more challenging (to eliminate) in existing construction are light cans and the like.
Post 9 made on Sunday March 23, 2003 at 21:19
PHSJason
Advanced Member
Joined:
Posts:
December 2002
994
a few other points to consider:
1)If the sub woofer is a ported model, than the port must be on the downward face to allow the wave from the port to vent properly. Venting the port into the trunk will only cause more rattles.
2)If the sub woofer is a powered model, you must have signal and power at a floor box located below the trunk, but not directly below the sub woofer (a simple thing, but how many times does that simple thing that gets missed lead to grief?)
3)If the sub woofer is a powered model, is there a way for the built in amplifer to vent the heat generated in the amplification process to avoid thermal shutdown; or does the trunk have enough internal volume to allow for this factor.
4)Does the client understand that his antique trunk will be modified?
5)Which type of client is it? sonic perfection or cosmetic integration? Either way, there are trade-offs that certain people are willing to make while others wont.
Just a few things to consider before proceeding.
Post 10 made on Sunday March 23, 2003 at 21:45
QQQ
Super Member
Joined:
Posts:
January 2002
4,806
All very good points. The only one that I disagree with is that a ported subwoofer will cause any more rattles in the trunk. The air volume coming out of the port is the last thing that is going to cause rattles. Either way, any rattles should be easily solveable (of course I haven't seen the trunk so I can't say positively).
OP | Post 11 made on Monday March 24, 2003 at 10:53
Terry S
Long Time Member
Joined:
Posts:
August 2002
45
First of all, thank you all very much for your input.
The trunk is actually a newly manufactured replica of an old steamer's trunk. It has only a metal latch that would rattle. This can be handled OK. The metal straps and other parts are screwed down already. The client is aware that the trunk will be modified. They are not critical listeners and are more concerned about esthetics here than some minimal degradation in sound quality. One comment suggested that the subwoofer should not sit on the floor, but rather should be mounted inside the trunk, strattling the hole in the bottom. Any other opinions on this? I thought the hole in the trunk bottom should be large enough to allow the subwoofer to sit on the floor. Also, a vent hole can be cut in the back of the cabinet to allow for heat ventilation. Any suggestions on a good, powered downfiring subwoofer under $1000.00?

Terry
Post 12 made on Monday March 24, 2003 at 11:02
QQQ
Super Member
Joined:
Posts:
January 2002
4,806
On 03/24/03 10:53, Terry S said...
One comment
suggested that the subwoofer should not sit on
the floor, but rather should be mounted inside
the trunk, strattling the hole in the bottom.

I'm not sure which post you are referring to but the subwoofer should absolutely sit on the floor and NOT on the cabinet.


Jump to


Protected Feature Before you can reply to a message...
You must first register for a Remote Central user account - it's fast and free! Or, if you already have an account, please login now.

Please read the following: Unsolicited commercial advertisements are absolutely not permitted on this forum. Other private buy & sell messages should be posted to our Marketplace. For information on how to advertise your service or product click here. Remote Central reserves the right to remove or modify any post that is deemed inappropriate.

Hosting Services by ipHouse