I have a few things to vent: I own a Toshiba TV and DVD Player. Functionally, technically and performance based you really get a big bang for your buck. But, for all this "stuff" I would have paid 500-1000 dollars more for a company that gave a damn about their customers. Had to return the TV 5 times because it had scratches in the shield. They upgraded me to a new TV and I wrote to them how to wire the IR blaster in the back of the TV and they could not answer the question. I wrote them about Discrete codes and they could not answer the question.

I then had a problem with my DVD, no video, just sound and an Error code in the screen M-1, T-1 and T-2. Well, I called them, wrote them and they said that the laser was damaged. I was a bit disturbed and questioned. So you have two lasers? One for audio (remember I have audio) and one for video? The rep said, yes and that I should take it to an authorized dealer to be fixed. Well, screwing around with this damn thing, I took it apart looked at the laser, etc. nothings wrong. Why the hell no video and these damn error codes? Toshiba could not even tell me what these error codes were for, but they were diagnostic tools... Perplexed I continued on. So this is how the story ends.

The component output on the DVD player has a sometype of feedback for signal continuity, my component cable got crimped in the rack. Switched the component cable and walla video and no error code

Their complete idiots and if your doing custom work, there will be no support.

Thats exactly why we dumped them a long time ago.

All the current Toshibas TV's have descrete codes for power as well as input. As for the oter problem, It in effect was user error, (your fault, bad cable) yet you are blaming them for the problem. They are not my favorite line, but their products are usually reliable.

I agree with Greg C.
They could have worse discrete codes, but at
least most of the new sets have power,and
a pretty easy input menu to automate.

Has anyone found any other place for an IR emitter
on a 57" Cinema Series, than on the front screen?
Am I just missing the boat on this.
I couldn't get it to work anywhere else.

The new Cinema series have both a "in" and "out" for a mono 3.5MM plug to support an IR blaster. Some "IR blasters" will not work though. I have had good luck with an IR emitter Xanatech

Sean,

I could not get Xantech stuff to work through either IR ports on the Tos TV, from what I read in the TV manual (everything was vague) and Toshiba service did not know what I was talking about. How did you get it to work??

I treated the TV port as an IR pick up, into a connecting block, into emitters and no worky......

Dave

I installed a 65" cinema series back in Nov. Used the IR out on the tv hooked up to a Jamo(Xantech) connecting block in the equipment room. It worked as long as the remote was held 15" above your lap when sitting down so we ended up putting an R-200 on the lower left bezel.

This is how you get it to work. Go to radio shack and by a mono stereo plug. Now cut one end of the plug off and connect the copper wire to the IR in on the connecting block) Secondly use the shield, which is braided silver wires and connect that to the ground.

Now, plug the other enf of the plug into the back of the TV.

Heres the problem you probably connected a 5mm plug into the Xanatech IR connecting block, which is bad.. That 5mm plug input on the xanatech connecting block is looking for a stereo connection (three wires) for their own brand of IR emitters. So, what happens is you ground out the power supply and your transformer gets really hot (little fire hazard.) Xanatech does not tell you that the 5mm plug input is stereo and the connecting block is mono! Toshiba does not tell you if their inputs require stereo or mono, whcih could be pretty awful if you grounded out your TV.

You will probably need a new power supply for the xanatech, because its fried, if you did what I did, and think you did. You can get that at Radio shack. HAve themm connect the plug on to the transforme, so you know you have tip right!

lastly, it is probaly a waste of time, because as noted in the previosu post, the lens ferreule, provides a bad angle and you have to elevate the remote to get the thing to work. I used a repeater to get around this, if it helps.

good luck!

Venting is a good thing . We often find out workarounds for the strange ways some of these products are engineered.


Vent on!!!!

just pop the screen off, about 10 screws, and place your ir emitter or receiver just behind the tubes. you will notice there a little pc board which is the ir eye for the tv, we flasher tv's here all the tim and they work great. To get the wire out of the back you can drill a tiny hole straight out or route the wire down under the panel and over the chassis and out the holes in the back panel.

sean's solution is right, but


RTFM, even if it is just a small piece of paper in the box.

The xantech blocks use mono jacks for the IR emitter outputs and stereo jacks for the Ir sensor inputs, and the instructions say DO NOT PLUG EMITTERS INTO THE IR INPUT JACKS. why? Because they will blow, and the power supply will heat up or die.

If you need to replace the power supply, use a 12 volt regulated or 9 volt unregulated power supply. The Xantech stuff needs 12 volts, and 12 volt unregulated supplies typically put out about 16 volts until you load them down quite a bit.

Yeah, the new instructions say that... The old ones, did not, which I must have had... When I called Xanatech, they gave me a new power supply and connecting block and four emitters for free. Because I was one of the "unlucky ones"

Could you share the input codes codes for the Toshiba? I found the power codes but have yet to find input for my 57HX81. I have been using learned input and then the learned number inputs but it doesn't always work. Thanks.

If I remeber correctly, there are technically not "Discrete" input codes, You press the "input" button, and the the corresponding input Number. Its a 2 step macro for "discrete" input selection. Works well though.