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Topic:
Arduino IR Output not strong enough. Anyone ?
This thread has 6 replies. Displaying all posts.
Post 1 made on Saturday May 30, 2020 at 10:12
New Guy with Question
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Build arduino IR transmitter to mute SONY TV. Its working but IR output is way too low to be 'seen' by SONY. Added transistor to boost output with no change. Guys at
Arduino are all ' send me the sketch blah blah blah' Hoping someone out there
in IR Galaxy has run across the same issue and was able to resolve ?

Cosmic Good Wishes
Bill
Thanks!
Post 2 made on Saturday May 30, 2020 at 10:35
Barf
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350
You are aware that SONY signals in general has to be sent three times for the device to react?

How do you come up with the conclusion that the signal is OK, except for too weak?
OP | Post 3 made on Monday June 1, 2020 at 20:39
New Guy with Question
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Barf-Man:

First, thanks for the shout back. In this dystopian, virus filled, riot torn world its much appreciated !

Yes, Im aware SONY generally requires three pulse hits to react. There is also a
Samsung and Element TV I can test against.

To answer your other question, I anticipate your familiar with the Arduino ?
The code works great; the hardware works great when used with a standard
red, blue, white ect LED. It lights as it should. However, when using the IR LED and catching it on the cell phone camera, its just the faintest of a blink; difficult to see but its there.

I have tried three different IR LEDs including de-constructing a known good remote. I saw an 'sketch' using a transistor to boost the power; it makes the
standard LED a bit brighter but no effect on the IR LED. According to friggin' YouTube, this should work.

Im NOT an electronics guy but did try to learn if voltage requirements
were different between a standard LED and IR. Pretty sure I'm doing something incorrect. I can send any documentation you may want.

Thanks
Thanks!
Post 4 made on Tuesday June 2, 2020 at 14:36
Barf
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350
Making a powerful IR sender on Arduino basis without driver transistor is easy, see for example this little project: [Link: harctoolbox.org] Since I have not seen your exact circuit, I can only give some general advice:

* Use proper IR LEDs from premium manufacturers with available data sheets, for example OSRAM (looks cool with the black housing) or Vishay. Make sure they are 940-950 nm (890 are for IRDA and unsuited).
* Use a proper resistor in series with the LEDs, see [Link: harctoolbox.org] for computations.
* Do not EVER connect LEDs in parallel or without a resistor.
* The "constant current" circuit is great if you need constant current despite of widely varying supply current. If you do not have that problem, you do not need that circuit either.
* Not all Arduino(-compatible) boards can provide the same current. ATMega328P (Uno, Nano, etc) can provide up to 40 mA, which is more than enough. More powerful boards much less, just a few mA. Read the data sheet.

OK, that was probably more than you wanted to know...
OP | Post 5 made on Thursday June 4, 2020 at 09:26
New Guy with Question
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Reviewing the info you provided. Checking it out now.
Thanks!
OP | Post 6 made on Thursday June 4, 2020 at 09:47
New Guy with Question
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Mr. Barf::

I replaced the IR light for the 4th time, checked all connections, reviewed your info and still have the same results. May I send you an 8 sec video showing the event ? I hit a start button, the IR LED (barley) fires, the program waits 5 seconds as it should and fires a second time. Its just a very low output when compared to a typical RC.
(OBTW; the intent here is to hit button 1 and it will send a MUTE (on) code, wait 5 seconds and send another MUTE (off) code. Button 2= 30 sec event. Button 3= 1 min sequence. Ect.)
Thanks!
Post 7 made on Thursday June 4, 2020 at 10:11
Barf
Long Time Member
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Posts:
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350
My suggestion:

1. Publish a good quality photo of the used hardware,
2. Flash a standard sketch just sending the requested signal (say every 5 seconds), using IRremote or Infrared4Arduino (IRRemote or Infrared in the Arduino library manager).


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