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Topic:
dummy load to make LED dimming work with Crestron light module.....
This thread has 20 replies. Displaying posts 1 through 15.
Post 1 made on Sunday December 5, 2010 at 17:01
scoop city
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We have 2 Crestron DIN-1DIMU4 and are doing LED dimming loads. It is
not working reliablly, turns on, but then goes off right away, will
not dim most of the time, when it does it "stutters" and goes off.

Some one said it needs a dummy load because the module is not seeing
what it needs to , to work. we put a 60 watt incandeccant along with
one of the dimmanle LED loads and it worked fine.

Anyone know of a good dummy load (not the Lutron double gang option)
Someone said a 10k ohm 10 watt resistor..... a Crestron tech guy said
it may be done in programming in D3 .... Help

Scoop
Post 2 made on Sunday December 5, 2010 at 18:20
thefish
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Lutron LBX?

I've also used a resistor, I'll have to dig around to find out where I bought it.

I don't do Crestron, but I don't see how any amount of programming could show a dummy load on a dimming module.
Post 3 made on Sunday December 5, 2010 at 18:48
zinon
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What type of LED light is it? How much does current does it draw? We use the Lutron LUT LBX often with great success. You can place it anywhere between your dimmer and the load.
Zinon
Post 4 made on Sunday December 5, 2010 at 21:58
Audible Solutions
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On December 5, 2010 at 18:20, thefish said...
Lutron LBX?

I've also used a resistor, I'll have to dig around to find out where I bought it.

I don't do Crestron, but I don't see how any amount of programming could show a dummy load on a dimming module.

As with many things, there can be firmware activated to either deal with the load in place a resistor in the circuit. Lutron does this with their phase lock loop circuit for example, different application but still an example of how software can be used to deal with a physical issue.

I have not looked into D3 to see where this setting might be--assuming it exists. If you have to go the route of an external resistor keep in mind it will get really hot and need to be heat sinked.

Alan
"This is a Christian Country,Charlie,founded on Christian values...when you can't put a nativiy scene in front fire house at Christmas time in Nacogdoches Township, something's gone terribly wrong"
Post 5 made on Monday December 6, 2010 at 10:42
Bruce Sinclair
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694
I would check the programming option or the Lutron option. Adding a resistor does work but can leave you exposed to liability if not done correctly pertaining to heat sink.
Bruce Sinclair CMB Integrations LLC DMC-E
"Those who are most critical, often have no real skills themsevles"
Post 6 made on Monday December 6, 2010 at 10:50
SWOInstaller
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How do you have the Load type defined in D3? They do have LV options within the load type as your LED's don't pull a lot.

Just a suggestion, not sure if it would work on not, haven't had to deal with that yet.
You can't fix stupid
Post 7 made on Monday December 6, 2010 at 10:52
GotGame
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Instead of a resistor, use a light bulb at the panel until there are mods made to the dimmer module to support your LED. You most likely only need a 25w bulb.
Which LED product are you using? Total wattage on that leg of the dimmer?
I may be schizophrenic, but at least I have each other.
Post 8 made on Monday December 6, 2010 at 11:16
eastonaltreee
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930
Try changing the lower dimming limit to 3% or 5% on that load, that should clear up the flickering. There is a document on Crestron's website that indicates what levels for different brands.
Post 9 made on Monday December 6, 2010 at 11:21
Gizmologist09
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Here is one of the TOTL power resistors. We use this series a lot in power control.
[Link: vishay.com]
Post 10 made on Monday December 6, 2010 at 13:39
Ernie Bornn-Gilman
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On December 5, 2010 at 17:01, scoop city said...

Anyone know of a good dummy load (not the Lutron double gang option)
Someone said a 10k ohm 10 watt resistor.....

If you do the calcs, you'll find that 10K throws off only 1.44 watts of heat when it sees a full 120 VAC RMS. This does not seem to be much power at all.

Don't let that make you think it won't get plenty hot, though. We're really not familiar with how much heat that can be, especially if it's in a confined space. I've burned my finger on a 1/2 watt resistor that's got 1/4 watt of power going through it. You will definitely need to provide heat sinking for that resistor and the system will have to be comfortable with a small hot spot in it.
A good answer is easier with a clear question giving the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw
OP | Post 11 made on Monday December 6, 2010 at 15:16
scoop city
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the electrician is using 601-12DCR and C2240-12DCR dimming power supplies
by Environmental Lights (actual manufacturer is Justin)

this is what we are trying to get Crestron DIN-1DIM4U to control.
Post 12 made on Tuesday December 7, 2010 at 20:06
Techsquad
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Just be careful, sometimes your Dimmable LEDs do not work by lowering the Voltage, but by managing the amperage. do they work with regular standalone dimmers?

Also, the dimming range might not be 0 - 100, the lowest possible input voltage of the power supply could be 80V for a minimum brightness. So you could program that dimmer to its relative zero to be about 60% ...

To be honest I had some bad experience with dimming Leds, if I was the one to choose the fixtures i could get some compatible with the dimmers... but most of the times it's either the customer or the designers that chooses the lights, so I just get them a switch. =P
Post 13 made on Tuesday December 7, 2010 at 20:19
jimstolz76
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Litetouch sells a 25w load resistor, but it's just a generic part. They only sell it so their dealers can easily find it. I'm dealing with dimmable LEDs today as well and having the exact same problem you're describing... may be ordering a handful of them.
Post 14 made on Tuesday December 7, 2010 at 22:14
bcf1963
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On December 6, 2010 at 13:39, Ernie Bornn-Gilman said...
If you do the calcs, you'll find that 10K throws off only 1.44 watts of heat when it sees a full 120 VAC RMS. This does not seem to be much power at all.

Don't let that make you think it won't get plenty hot, though. We're really not familiar with how much heat that can be, especially if it's in a confined space. I've burned my finger on a 1/2 watt resistor that's got 1/4 watt of power going through it. You will definitely need to provide heat sinking for that resistor and the system will have to be comfortable with a small hot spot in it.

Ernie's calculation of the power dissipation is correct.

An important concept to remember is that resistor power ratings are based on a temperature rise above 25C. (Room temp for those who don't speak SI units) So if you don't want a resistor to get very hot, buy a resistor rated for about 5x the power you intend to dissipate.

So, in this case you would need to select a resistor that is capable of 1.44W x 5 = 7.2W The next highest standard wattage is 10Watts, so I would use a 10K ohm 10 Watt resistor.

The following would be a good choice: [Link: search.digikey.com]

You would need to solder two leads to the terminals, and then insulate the connections with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing. I would then suggest mounting it in a metal junction box using the two "ears" on the anodized aluminum body to mount it using a couple self tapping screws.
Post 15 made on Tuesday December 7, 2010 at 22:39
jimstolz76
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Here it is. No hacking needed.





Litetouch sells it with leads soldered onto it for you.
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