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Topic:
Faceplates for C2N-DBF12 Keypad
This thread has 6 replies. Displaying all posts.
Post 1 made on Tuesday February 15, 2011 at 21:33
SWOInstaller
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Anyone else run into a situation where you have retroed in the kp location but due to the thickness of the plastic of the kp the FP doesn't fit flush to the wall. We had about an 1/8" gap between the wall and the FP. If you have solved this problem what retro brackets/faceplates are you using to overcome this problem?

Thanks

SWO
You can't fix stupid
Post 2 made on Tuesday February 15, 2011 at 22:32
Mr. Brad
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Have the same problem. I believe we used a Lutron screwless cover plate????
Post 3 made on Tuesday February 15, 2011 at 22:54
UTSdigitalslop
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Can't you sit your retro ring further back by taking an 1/8 of the drywall so your lv ring is flush with finished drywall? so the kp itself goes in a little more?

what lv brackets are you using btw?
I like to think of Jesus as an Ice Dancer, dressed in an all-white jumpsuit, and doing an interpretive dance of my life.
OP | Post 4 made on Wednesday February 16, 2011 at 09:44
SWOInstaller
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On February 15, 2011 at 22:54, UTSdigitalslop said...
Can't you sit your retro ring further back by taking an 1/8 of the drywall so your lv ring is flush with finished drywall? so the kp itself goes in a little more?

what lv brackets are you using btw?

We have tried 3 different retro LV brackets with all the same problems. We tried the white Caddy, black Caddy (I think) and the thin metal ones and still getting the gap. The main reason for the gap is due to a pre-con braket gets cut out and allows for the kp to recess enough for the fp to sit flush to the wall

Recessing the bracket would be a lot of fine knife work and then you are reducing the strength of the drywall so someone may push the kp right into the wall.


Mr.Brad I do like the screwless fp but the cost of them is horrendous and since it is for a builder we have to stay with the same decor throughout by using decora fp
You can't fix stupid
Post 5 made on Wednesday February 16, 2011 at 11:25
UTSdigitalslop
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I used to have the issue with the caddy ones, if its the same ones Im thinking about, it uses plastic clips to lock into the drywall correct? have you tried arlington LV1 ? I only use these now.
I like to think of Jesus as an Ice Dancer, dressed in an all-white jumpsuit, and doing an interpretive dance of my life.
OP | Post 6 made on Wednesday February 16, 2011 at 12:42
SWOInstaller
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On February 16, 2011 at 11:25, UTSdigitalslop said...
I used to have the issue with the caddy ones, if its the same ones Im thinking about, it uses plastic clips to lock into the drywall correct? have you tried arlington LV1 ? I only use these now.

Yes the white caddy ones are the same. We did try the Arlington's as well and to no avail. I will find a link to the metal ones we are using although they still don't work. I don't like them much as they are a pain to cut out and install.

I like the Caddy ones a lot as the dimples allow you to draw your lines and always have the perfect cut. Haven't mastered the Arlington's or the metal ones yet for hole size and find myself having to enlarge the hole after I make my initial cuts

Here is a link to the metal ones I am refering to
Metal Brackets
You can't fix stupid
Post 7 made on Wednesday February 16, 2011 at 15:01
UTSdigitalslop
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The caddy ones were nice for that but for decora trims they suck, the pin points are handy true but since I switched to LV1's I have never had that problem again with any trype of trim or vc. and we use to burn through a hundred a month. The metal ones do the same IMO. as for cut out size, make a template :) make sure its squared for leveling purposes. I have a metal template and a wooden one made, only takes a few minutes and takes up little space in the bag.
I like to think of Jesus as an Ice Dancer, dressed in an all-white jumpsuit, and doing an interpretive dance of my life.


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