First off, you are wrong about the Attenuator, you will notice on closer examination that the trace is straight through; the resistor there is rated @ only 0 ohms. The attenuator trace on the board is only there because they might have needed it to pass FCC regulations. Further the flaw with this circuit is in that the transmitter output leg was specified to be no greater than .25 of an inch from the splatch input leg, when in reality, it is about ¾ of an inch out of spec. Further the splatch antenna is wrong for this application.
Second, we tried the 900 MZ mod, which did not help a bit.
Third, Using the amplifier will probably get RTI in big trouble and eventually you thrown in jail by the FCC. (Guy crashes jumbo jet with his hot rod remote, news at 11:00)
Fourth, Do not modify your remote unless you are qualified to do so, there are a lot of things you can blow up in there, the latter model remotes are tricky to take apart since they now use glue between the boards and the display leads can be broken off if you are not carefull. If you break it, you are probably going to have to buy a new remote, since RTI is aware of the boot leg mod crowd already and will probably not want to have anything to do with you changing their product.
Fifth, I have been effectively modifying these remotes longer than anyone, wherefore, I could tell you how to fix your remote so it works 80% better within 30 to 40 feet of the IRF-6, but I promised the President of RTI that I would not do that. But I will tell you that the fix is a lot easier than all of that drill a hole in the remote, install a copper plate nonsense. The clue lies in the fact that the antenna and transmitter are not compatible for the application, The T2 is basically a fancy garage door opener, those of you who understand what I am talking about will be able to figure out the rest on there own.
Sixth, it is nice to see that RTI has adopted my IRF-6 modification as standard issue, RG-6 works quite well within 10 feet off a BNC bulkhead connector mounted in the chassis, but I have found as in my original statement on this issue that RG-8 works the best as it is better matted to the frequency concerned.
Seventh---To recap for those that are new to this. The RG 194 cable that comes as standard issue with IRF-6 is only good for about 1-2 inches in length at the frequency in question, so what we need to do is cut the cable down to less than 2 inches and solder it onto the BNC bulkhead connector we previously mounted to the side of the IRF-6 Chassis near the receiving chip end. It is important to get a good chassis ground with the bulkhead connector, so sand off some of the paint inside before you mount it. This mod will give you noticeable results, enjoy.
NOTE! For those of you who are not qualified, but are going to do this mod anyway, please remove the circuit board before you drill the hole in the chassis. use only non magnetic tools, further do not over tighten the screws as you might crack the circuit board.
Finally rob13572468 please do not encourage people do something they might regret, in the end. This site is visited by a great many people who are not professional installers or people who do not have a great amount of electronics experience, but will try anything out of frustration. Please understand that I am really bummed that I cannot fix these customers remotes for them via mail order, but doing so may put some of the remotes over FCC Limits, which for a licensed installer is possibly a punishable offence.
I would like to get one of the supped up remotes tested and if it is within limits, maybe I will do the mods Mail order after all.
